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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought Roush rear springs and will be putting them in this weekend. Are there any tricks I should know about before I dive into this project?? And are there any torque specs on anything I will need to know??

Seems like it should be a pretty basic install, hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that is very helpful. Thanks so much.

I wont have to mark the shock though will I? (Since I am putting in different springs.) Those instructions read as if they were for replacing springs with the exact same ones.
 

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1965 Mustang coupe
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that is very helpful. Thanks so much.

I wont have to mark the shock though will I? (Since I am putting in different springs.) Those instructions read as if they were for replacing springs with the exact same ones.
Correct.. Those instructions are for replacing with an OEM spring.
 

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Notice which way the last coil faces on the pad. I think the instructions say to place a tag aft. The aftermarkets dont have tags.
 

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Helps if you use spring compressors to get them off. Doesnt really have to be that much, I found when taking them off all i needed was just a little bit more to get them off.

But if the springs arent oriented the same way what would happen? now im starting to worry about mine....:doh:
 

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Helps if you use spring compressors to get them off. Doesnt really have to be that much, I found when taking them off all i needed was just a little bit more to get them off.
Not for the rear springs. Once the shocks are unhooked and the rear end is allowed to droop all the way the springs literally fall out.
 

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My axle wasnt all the way down because i didnt want to put any bad strain on the upper control arm. So the spring didnt have as much room as yours did.

but back to the springs being oriented a certain way. Does it really matter or will the car not sit evenly?
 

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I've lowered mine and unbolting the shocks and allowing the rear to drop just enough to get the springs out is the easiest and quickest. The only advantage I can see to use a spring compressor is on a convertible because you have to loosen the rear body/frame braces to drop the axle, and that isn't hard to do. The rear end links see a lot more stress/strain on the road trying to keep the rear end under the car.
 

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Do you have to get an alignment after you do the rear springs?
 

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Not for the rear springs. Once the shocks are unhooked and the rear end is allowed to droop all the way the springs literally fall out.
My rear springs refused to come out with the shocks unhooked until I also unbolted the swaybar. With the swaybar attached, the rear wouldn't drop or wiggle enough and I couldn't get those suckers out. Took an extra five minutes...
 

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My rear springs refused to come out with the shocks unhooked until I also unbolted the swaybar. With the swaybar attached, the rear wouldn't drop or wiggle enough and I couldn't get those suckers out. Took an extra five minutes...
Well I hope you put them in the corner facing the wall and made them think about it for a while.:nono::D

I think I had my swaybar off before I went for the springs when I originally put them in. I put all the suspension stuff on at the same time. And now the new ones are so short it’s a non issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so I got this tackled over the weekend. Took about maybe 45mins tops. The only question I have is making sure I put the springs in the right way. I got the Roush rear lowering springs and they are bee hived in shape. The stock ones are just cylinders. I put the Roush ones in with the fat part upwards and the little end on the axle...is that correct??
 

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I'd call Roush if orientation wasn't in the instructions.

Orientation wasn't included for my rear Steeda springs either but found them online with a google search.
 

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+1 Hubkap. I now remember that i was too lazy to remove the sway bar because i had recently put it in. I guess that made it a little hard to get the full drop.
 
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