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Discussion Starter #1
Well I have a decision to make. I can get a remanufactured 302 for my 69 stang for $1050 for a Long-Block. If I was to rebuild my engine myself It would cost at least this much I think. It is a numbers matching car....today. How much of a sin would I be commiting to just put in the remanufactured engine? Should I pay the $175 core charge and keep my old numbers matching engine to sell with the car some day in the future? What do ya think?
 

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I would suggest rebuilding the original motor. A remanufactured motor is not necessarily rebuilt to the highest standards. 'Remanufactured' means that they only replace what is worn. If you rebuild or have a reputable machine shop rebuild your motor, you will know exactly what has been done to your moter, i.e. bore size, piston type, cam size, etc. You will actually get more for your money. :cool:
 

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dlinebar said:
Well I have a decision to make. I can get a remanufactured 302 for my 69 stang for $1050 for a Long-Block. If I was to rebuild my engine myself It would cost at least this much I think. It is a numbers matching car....today. How much of a sin would I be commiting to just put in the remanufactured engine? Should I pay the $175 core charge and keep my old numbers matching engine to sell with the car some day in the future? What do ya think?
Keep it. It'll be well worth the $175 down the line.
 

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My 71 Mustang with 302 grew tired at 156,000 that my daughter was driving, and I was real busy at the time, so I bought a long block(rebuilt)and put it in. It was cheaper and quicker than rebuilding my old eng. I kept it though for future considerations. The reman engine now has 65,000 on it, but one head had soft valve seats and had to be replaced at about 50,000. The other head was ok. Guess the rebuilder didn't use hardened seats. Otherwise it doing ok. Doesn't use any oil and has good power.


65fastback,71cpe,73cpe,05GT 5sp
 

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Rebuild it! Not because its numbers match BUT BECAUSE ITS FUN! If you have never built your own motor now's a good time to take a crack at it. If you make a mistake who cares...its your car you can do what you want! And after you are done the pride in accomplishing something you have never done is worth the price of admission. There is nothing hard about it most of the information you need is availiable in books or from friends who have done it before. Tools if you don't have them are not all that expensive and you should have them anyway so this is a good excuse to go buy them. The specialized tools you need are availiable at the local rental place. Really...it's not all that difficult and you will enjoy it...go for it!:)

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the input

Hey thanks for the input! I need to find a local shop to get a price from them for the work, heads, bore etc. and I am wondering how much to have them do it....I also have someone who has a used engine as follows:

Less than 10,000 miles on it, The block is bored .030" over and has sealed power forged pistons. The crank is .010" rods and .010" mains. New freeze out plugs and cam bearings in the block. The heads have all new guides and new valves, 3 angle valve job and heads surfaced. The pressed in rocker studs have been replaced with screw in studs. The engine has a mild street performance Sealed Power camshaft, CS-108R 288 degrees duration, .465 lift. New oil pump and timing set (chain and steel gears). Edelbrock high rise 4 barrel manifold

So I am considering this as well, its out of a 70 cougar...
 
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