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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1966 coupe with a c code 289. It has a rod bearing going out and needs a rebuild. I would like to give the motor a little more power (no more than 100 more hp) without spending too much. Assuming the metal is in good condition, would it be more realistic to use whatever parts I have and have them tweaked (cam/heads/crank) or buy new parts (i.e. Edelbrock performer heads and cam)? I already plan to switch to a 4 bbl intake and carb.
 

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your cam almost certainly needs to be replaced. The lobes wear and it's far cheaper to replace than try to repair if it can even be repaired.

The crank can be used again, but depending on what shape it's in it might need to be reground.

Heads can be reused, the cylinder walls may need some honing, the deck may need some surfacing, need new valve guides, and valve seats will need replaced and valves probably reground or replaced. The pushrods will need to be checked for straightness.

It cost me $600 for a valve job on some 351 heads. For another $300 I could have bought myself a set of Edelbrock E-streets.
 

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You said 'no more than 100hp' so what amount of hp are you wanting to add? I can't think of a way to add anywhere near 100hp to a stock motor without some serious engine work including high compression and professional hear porting which would cost close to aftermarket alum. heads as lizer mentioned. I'm guessing you could get 50hp from cam, well ported stock heads, intake, 4V and exhaust. Changing the rear gears from the stock 2.79:1 to 3.25 will make it feel much peppier off the line but you'll increase your hwy 50mph+ RPM's somewhat.

Hopefully someone will chime in with a fairly stock combination they did that yeilded a decent improvement.
Getting it to breathe better is the biggest improvement - heads, port matched 4V intake and exhaust.
Jon
 

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I have enjoyed reading this page...

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/BudgetSmallBlock.html

...a few times or more. It is a bit dated and the dollar amounts are off now (if they where ever spot on?). It gives you an idea of what it takes to get to 300HP.

I did not go this route because high compression means good quality high octane fuel and I am afraid our fuel quality is changing and did not want to end up with a car 10 years from now that had to have race track fuel.

This is a brief summary of my "not so stock" engine to give you an idea of the money to hp ratio....

289 Block Scat Stroked & Balanced to 331 - 9.3:1 CR
World Windsor Jr's - Portmatched w/Scorpion 1.6:1 Roller Rockers, Exhausted by 351W Ported Mani's
FS XE262H-10 Comp Cam Advertised Duration 262/270, Lift .493/.500 w/Hyd Lifters
RPM Air Gap Intake Topped w/Holley 600 & GM HEI Dizzy
Cooled by an Electric Fan.

The above parts with machine work on the block (I did the assembly)ran about $4000 and does not include fluids, wires, sealers, plugs, breather, water pump, harmonic balancer, fuel pump, etc, etc. It only inlcudes the HP parts listed.

Dyno 2000 software estimated my Peak HP to be 300 with a max torque of the same -300.

Headers would get you another 10-20%. Upping the CR yields great gains and throwing more money at better heads and bigger cam take it to the next level.
 

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has the engine ever been rebuild and how many miles on it??

If it's never been rebuilt I think the block will need a little more than honing to get it in shape

And what exactly is your budget?

If you want to rebuild it without too much power then the most expensive part will probably be machine work. It cost me $450 to get mine hot tanked, bored out 30 over, honed, decked, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs and the crank micropolished. See how much a local machine shop will charge for them to machine your block, crank and heads.

The cylinder heads, as Lizer said, will need a three angle valve job and replacement of some parts which the machine shop will be able to tell you. If you dont want too much power, keep the reuse the original ones.

If you dont want too much power then:

1. recondition the block, crank, connecting rods, and heads
2. get all new main & rod bearings (~$40)
3. get new piston rings (~$40)
4. get a new cam and lifter set (a mild one)
5. get your new intake and 4bbl carb
6. possibly get headers to improve the engines breathing

If you do all this, the horsepower should stay in check while still waking your engine up
 

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Also, if you are replacing valve guides, see if they can install bronze guides instead of steel. These will wear less on the valve stems.
 

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your guides are probably cast iron, not steel. Cast iron is what I intended to say earlier and I see I said steel. I don't know where all you can get them, but they have lots of advantages over cast iron. They wear less and last a lot longer than cast iron guides, are compatible with almost any types of steel the valves might be made of, (chrome, stainless), require minimum guide to valve clearance, and can survive on less lubrication than cast iron guides. Additionally, bronze has better heat transfer than cast iron so more heat from the valve is dissipated into the cooling system. FYI, chrome valves with bronze guides are most ideal since they require virtually no clearance and have little chance of seizing together. And they'll wear minimally.

Suffice to say, when my builder was putting together my GT40 heads I requested they use bronze guides.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone have a recommendation for a cam? I am looking for power in the low to mid range for daily driving. What type of cam should I be looking at?
 

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Hi I used bronze sleeves. The machine shop wanted way to much to do it , So i bought all the nessesary tools and did it my self. Cost was way lees then what i was quoted. Have done 2 others since. first one 6 years ago and no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My shop recommends an rv cam. Should I ask instead for a higher performance cam? Also, what intake and 600 cfm carb should I be using from Edelbrock? Performer/Rpm?
 

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+1 on Lizer's suggestion of the Edelbrock #2122 cam... I just installed that in my 289 and it sounds awesome

If you want a 600 cfm carb go with the Edelbrock #1406.. it has an electric choke which is way better than your stock exhaust-heated choke or a manual choke. The Edelbrock #2121 performer 289 intake manifold:

INTAKE MANIFOLD EDELBROCK PERFORMER 4V 289/302 - ALUMINUM | CJ Pony Parts

The performer intake and edelbrock 1406 carb combo have been used by countless people and everyone likes the results.
 

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And Lizer... your right my original heads do have cast iron guides. My new edelbrock heads have hardened steel ones though so I'm hoping they last a long time... hence why I had to spend a little more and get hardened pushrods as well :yelwacko:
 

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You are the one that has to determine where you want your power. Cam, intake, carb combo determines if you want your power at low rpm(0-60) or at high rpm (high speed). Decide on that and you'll get better recommendations on specific parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am looking for power in the low to mid range for daily driving. What type of cam should I be looking at?
As I said earlier, I'm looking for power in the low to mid range for daily driving. That being said, I've heard that some still recommend going to a performer rpm manifold. For that kind of power, what makes the Edelbrock cam superior to an rv cam? Does anyone have an rv cam in their 289?
 

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As I said earlier, I'm looking for power in the low to mid range for daily driving. That being said, I've heard that some still recommend going to a performer rpm manifold. For that kind of power, what makes the Edelbrock cam superior to an rv cam? Does anyone have an rv cam in their 289?
The Edelbrock cam IS an RV cam. "RV cam" has become a term that basically means optimized torque in low to mid RPM ranges. You stated you wanted power in the low to mid range. This is torque. This is where the Edelbrock performer cam makes its power. This is where RV cams make their power. The performer RPM manifold isn't an ideal match because it's made for high output, high revving engines meant to produce high top end horsepower, whereas the Performer manifold is designed to improve torque. It is an "RV intake."

So, for what you're wanting to do--low to midrange power for daily driving--the Edelbrock performer 289 cam and intake combo is about as perfect as you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the help...sounds like the performer and 1406 carb are the way to go. I appreciate it
 
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