[67Stang KS Kid]

Okay...So I rebuilt the carb got everything back to the way it was and now the car won't start. It kicks over for about 2 seconds and then dies. When you give it gas you get the instant spray into the carb, I thought that it would be a fuel issue but it seems to be working...Not sure where to start looking... Any ideas? I may try and get a video of it a little later so that you all see what is going on.

I am a newbie when it comes to these cars so any help would be great.

 

[Explorer]

1) Was it running before you rebuilt the carb?
2) Choke seem to be working properly?
3) Will it continue to run if you give it fuel?
4) What carb are we dealing with?
These things will help getting good advise. As many as I have done, I've learned that the possibility exists I did something wrong.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

1) Was it running before you rebuilt the carb?
2) Choke seem to be working properly?
3) Will it continue to run if you give it fuel?
4) What carb are we dealing with?
These things will help getting good advise. As many as I have done, I've learned that the possibility exists I did something wrong.

1) Yes the car was running before, but leaked fuel (through the carb)
2) Not sure...This is the 1st carb that I have rebuilt. I am very new to this so I have alot to learn.
3) No. If I give it gas it dies. If I try to let it idle it dies.
4) Autolite Model 2100 2/V Carburetor

 

[Jonk67]

Have you double checked to make sure you reattached all the vacuum lines and caps? So if you pump the carb. linkage with the car off and the air cleaner off can you see the spray of fuel?
Choke adjusted, floats set proper, etc?

Did you take anything else off besides the carb?(dist. wires, electrical wires,etc.) Did you change the timing, etc.?
Jon

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Have you double checked to make sure you reattached all the vacuum lines and caps? So if you pump the carb. linkage with the car off and the air cleaner off can you see the spray of fuel?
Choke adjusted, floats set proper, etc?

Did you take anything else off besides the carb?(dist. wires, electrical wires,etc.) Did you change the timing, etc.?
Jon

I checked to make sure the vacuum lines and caps were reattached. If I pump the throttle linkage, I can see fuel spray. I am pretty sure the floats were set properly, but I can recheck that.

Did not take anything else off besides the carb.

 

[Explorer]

Good news is you picked probably the easiest carb there is to rebuild. With engine cold and accelerator pressed once, choke flap should be almost closed. Idle mix screws, two turns out from seated is a good starting point. Double check the adjustments described in your rebuild kit directions.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Good news is you picked probably the easiest carb there is to rebuild. With engine cold and accelerator pressed once, choke flap should be almost closed. Idle mix screws, two turns out from seated is a good starting point. Double check the adjustments described in your rebuild kit directions.

Okay...The choke flap is almost closed when the accelerator is pressed once. I seated the idle mix screws and backed them out 1.5 turns according the directions. I checked the adjustments described in the paperwork and it starts for now 5 secs and then dies.

ON the Autolite 2100 2/v carb, is there a mechanical link between the throttle and choke flap? WHen I hit the gas, the choke flap does not open. I would assume that it would act as a butterfly valve opening through mechanical links, or is the valve operated by vacuum? Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Print Dad]

Rebuilt Carb. Car won't start

Hello 67Stang KS Kid,
I am jumping in on this htread a little late so
I would like to offer some info in addition to the great
advice already given.

FIRST - -the choke (butterfly flap) does not flop
with the pedal linkage. So it sounds as if your is working
properly. Just to explain - -the butterfly almost closes
when the motor is cold. This helps the motor get a richer mixture
to make starting easier. As the motor heats up - - the choke opens slowly until
it gets to the point where the butterfly is almost straight up and down (open).
This will now give you a normal mixture idle.

SECOND - -you originally stated the carb leaked gas through the carb. Where
was the leak? I am thinking perhaps it was leaking at the side near the throttle linkage.
This would indicate a shaft leak.
It would help if we understood where the leak was.

THIRD - -I would concentrate on one issue at a time. Let's get the carb issue adressed and then we can look at other possible issues.

Because the car will start and run for 5 seconds would seem to indicate the car is
flooding. You could try this - -start the car - - let her run - -then after she stalls pull
one or two sprk plugs and see if they appear wet.

once the car stalls - - is it hard to start again?

Try to give us as much info as possible - it will make it easier to help you.

My gut feeling tells me the float is set too high or is sticking and the motor is flooding itself.

Let us know - - Print Dad

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Hello 67Stang KS Kid,
I am jumping in on this htread a little late so
I would like to offer some info in addition to the great
advice already given.

FIRST - -the choke (butterfly flap) does not flop
with the pedal linkage. So it sounds as if your is working
properly. Just to explain - -the butterfly almost closes
when the motor is cold. This helps the motor get a richer mixture
to make starting easier. As the motor heats up - - the choke opens slowly until
it gets to the point where the butterfly is almost straight up and down (open).
This will now give you a normal mixture idle.

SECOND - -you originally stated the carb leaked gas through the carb. Where
was the leak? I am thinking perhaps it was leaking at the side near the throttle linkage.
This would indicate a shaft leak.
It would help if we understood where the leak was.

THIRD - -I would concentrate on one issue at a time. Let's get the carb issue adressed and then we can look at other possible issues.

Because the car will start and run for 5 seconds would seem to indicate the car is
flooding. You could try this - -start the car - - let her run - -then after she stalls pull
one or two sprk plugs and see if they appear wet.

once the car stalls - - is it hard to start again?

Try to give us as much info as possible - it will make it easier to help you.

My gut feeling tells me the float is set too high or is sticking and the motor is flooding itself.

Let us know - - Print Dad

Good to know about the choke plate operation. Again this is all new to me so all of the information offered is appreciated.

The carb was leaking through the accelerator pump assembly. The previous owner said that the carb was leaking and would spray gas onto the manifold. So i decided to go ahead and rebuild the entire carb since it had been sitting a while.

I will attempt to start it and when it stalls pull a spark plug to check if it flooded. After it stalls it is difficult to start, Feels like the crank isn't turning and the starter is trying to push it.

The float was measured at 3/8 and the instructions said to be 3/8, if anyone has any better numbers, i am willing to listen.

Thanks again.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Okay...quick update. So I adjusted the choke to full choke and was able to get the car to "start" and run a little longer. I can get it to stay on about 10-15 seconds now. It feels to me that the car is not getting enough fuel, but when I give the car any amount of gas it kills it.

This tells me that the car is running rich. I adjust the fuel float from 3/8 to 16/32, still not working.

With the adjusted fuel float level, I began to adjust the idle fuel mixture needles, started at 1 turn out, and adjust all the way to 3 turns out in 1/2 turn increments. Still not working....

Any ideas?

 

[Explorer]

Wait on Print Dad, the man is extremly patient and thorough. At 15 sec carb should be starting to open choke a bit. Indications are it's sucking air from somewhere.

 

[Angrymonkey]

Is gas staying in the fuel bowl with the car off? I had a power valve gasket issue when I rebuilt mine, which would flood the engine or make it idle too rich and drain the fuel bowl.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

The fuel stays in the fuel bowl when the car is turned off. Plan on working on it today. Will let you know of any updates

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

More updates....

So I adjusted the idle fuel mixture needles to 3 turns out and the car is "easier" to start. If I pump the accelerator I can keep the car running for up to a minute, but it idles very very hard (shakes the car).

Still not really sure what is going on....At this point, i am just guessing. Any ideas?

 

[GCantero93]

Im running a 4bbl Holley Carburetor 9834-3. I had the same issue. All I did was adjust everything. Floats idle screws and all that. After I did that the car still didn't want to fire up. It ended up being the distributor cap. Everything was plugged into the wrong firing order.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Im running a 4bbl Holley Carburetor 9834-3. I had the same issue. All I did was adjust everything. Floats idle screws and all that. After I did that the car still didn't want to fire up. It ended up being the distributor cap. Everything was plugged into the wrong firing order.

Ok, so the car ran before messing with the Carb, but I don't know how well. When I bought the car, i was able to start it drive it down the block and back. After that I had to rebuild the carb because of the fuel leak (around the accelerator pump, couldn't exactly pinpoint it).

In order to check the firing order, and to see if it is off how do I go about doing this? This may be a stupid question, but I don't know that much about these engines. All the information you guys provide is very much appreciated.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Another update, checked the firing order and it is as it should be. I am going to concentrate my efforts today on the carb. My plan of attack is to:

1) Leave the Idle fuel mixture screws at 1.5 turns. and adjust everything from that point.
2) Make sure the choke flap is not opening to early (would screw up the air to fuel ratio)
3) Try to check vacuum lines for any leaks
4) Check the fuel bowl needle make sure it is not getting stuck


I will be checking the forum periodically for any additional ideas or help you all may be able add.

 

[Explorer]

Have you sprayed carb cleaner around the carb mounting base? If you have a vacuum leak it will change rpm's which is going to be hard to tell running the way it is. That carb will have a thick hard gasket under it that needs the thin gasket on each side of it to seal properly. Also the EGR plate gasket between carb and intake could be leaking. Full choke helping and three turns out on idle mix leads me in two different directions. Disconnect and plug vacuum port on carb for distributor advance till you get it running on it's own. You'll get it, just sometimes it takes awhile to find it. Repairs are easy, finding the cause is what's difficult.

 

[67Stang KS Kid]

Okay... so if i hold the choke plate closed the car runs fine...

That is with the Idle fuel mixture screws at 1.5 full turns out.

Seems to me that there is an air leak somewhere, because when I open the choke plate it dies, to much air? Any ideas?

 

[Explorer]

Now that you can keep it running, use the carb cleaner to look for leaks.