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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey again guys. I have a 2004 V6 3.9L Mustang(Automatic) Im the one that has had the squeeking sound under his hood for the past week... A mechanic told me it was the water pump, I replaced it and still squeeked. I took it to another mechanic and he said its the Camshaft Synchronizer. Which was what I was starting to think myself. So I bought a new one with a new sensor and the alignment tool all for $50 bucks @ my local Napa parts store. I need to know how to replace the synchronizer and what all other parts that I need to take off in order to replace it. Would really appreciate all the help thanks
 

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You're going to need a service manual for this one... Usually only $20. That was the first thing I bought for my car. :bigthumbsup
 

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is your sensor on the drivers side valve cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
lol my sensor and synchronizer are right above the water pump. I bought a manual today and it says in order to replace the synchronizer not just the sensor, I have to put the number one piston in Top Dead Center.... To do this, it says I need to
a.) disable the ignition system
b.) remove the spark plugs and nistall a compression gauge in the #1 cylinder?!?! turn crankshaft clockwise with a socket and breaker bar as described in chapter 2
c.) when the piston approaches TDC, compression will be noted on the gauge..... blah blah balh


so i have to get a compression guage in order to get to TDC?
 

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You do not need a compression gauge. Take out your fuel pump fuse in the PDI box. It should be the top, left 20a fuse. Double check the ensure the car won't start by listening to see if the pump kicks on when you turn the key on. Disconnect the plug on the coilpack so you won't get jolted when you take off the plug wire on the #1 cylinder. (did that before, not fun, i hate shocks) Have a buddy bump over the motor until you can feel air blow out of the hole. This is the point where you need to stop. Take a 21mm socket and put it on the crank pulley. Then turn the motor very slowly with a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder until you just feel the piston come to rest up top, and just before you feel it going down. This is TDC. Then you install the synchronizer. Before you tighten the bolt to the synchronizer down, make sure the metal piece(pin) is sticking up is exactly in the middle of the window where your sensor goes. You can rotate it anywhere at this point, just make sure you can put the sensor on afterwards. It does not matter where the synchronizer lines up in relation where it used to be, it only matters when the cylinder is at TDC, and the pin is in the middle of the window. Maybe your syn/sensor was located at 8 o'clock when you took it out, and now it is at the 4 o'clock position? It doesn't matter where it ends up as long as the steps were followed to tell sensor that it is okay to fire the #1 injector as it comes to TDC and the pin is in the middle of the window. The magnet on the sensor itself will acknowledge that the pin just went bye......

Crap, we need to sticky this too. It is too long to explain everytime.....
 
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There you go .....

its stuck........

i'm not so bad for a 5.0 guy.......:gringreen
 

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Discussion Starter #10
okay thanks shinerstang... sounds like it could work... ill try this tomorrow and let yall know how it goes
 

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hay andybz, do you know how exactly the mechanic determined it was the Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor? because a mechanic told me i had a bad watter pump and alternator and replacing thoes would stop the squeaking noise and $200 later it still squeeks
 

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Have you checked the belts and slack adjuster? Remove belts, run engine for short time and see if squeeling goes away! Seems cheaper than possibly replacing parts that are not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hey guys sorry for not posting in awhile... when i had my squeek a month ago, a firestone mechanic told me it was the water pump and it wasnt... so i took it to a local mechanic that isnt with the big companies like firestone or goodyear and he got a stethoscope and checked it that way.... we replaced the camshaft synchronizer and sensor and it fixed it
 

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Despite info in the archives, replacing the alternator will not solve the P0340/whining/bucking problem that is really due to a bad cam synch. Don't ask me how I know.

Bob
 

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...and the fix is...

NAPA part 600-2900. Cam synchronizer, new cam position sensor, alignment tool all for $60 out the door. The plastic cap alignment tool holds the inner spinner in the center of the sensor gap. Pretty easy to figure out, using this cap, how to get things back in the way they were w/o having to pull plugs, get to TDC, etc.

Bob
 
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I need a little help Stang budds.

Recently I posted a thread:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...elp-squeaky-egr-valve-seafoaming-process.html

And to go straight to the point, I have a couple of questions on your post SHINERSTANG that I really wanna quote and hope you or someone else may respond to it. Your explanation is AWESOME!! and I mean TOTALLY AWESOME!! I just happen to have a hard time understanding some things I would like to remark on to make sure:

...Have a buddy bump over the motor until you can feel air blow out of the hole. This is the point where you need to stop...
Here, What did you mean by "bump over the motor" until you can feel air blow out of the hole? Is it to twist the main crank of the motor and force an engine cycle in order to put #1 cyl on top?

...Take a 21mm socket and put it on the crank pulley. Then turn the motor very slowly with a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder until you just feel the piston come to rest up top, and just before you feel it going down. This is TDC.
Very important question here, Do you actually put a screwdriver inside the COMBUSTION CHAMBER through the opening of spark plug #1!? It seems like an "AY CARAMBA" moment when I heard it since I've always heard nothing goes in there. I just need confirmation before I do it... but I trust you on that. Also, if I have an automatic trasmission, I should set it to NEUTRAL before I attempt to move the engine, correct?

...Then you install the synchronizer. Before you tighten the bolt to the synchronizer down, make sure the metal piece(pin) is sticking up is exactly in the middle of the window where your sensor goes. You can rotate it anywhere at this point, just make sure you can put the sensor on afterwards...
This is where ignorance kicks in:weeps ... I need a picture, a sketch or something of that PIN that you refer to. I believe it should be between the black sensor cap and the shaft of the synchronizer. I know there is a positive and negative on the black cap, but I have not dissassemble the part myself yet. I'm gonna need a lot of luck on this one. I'm a mechanic by heart and a little practice, but not by theory.

...It does not matter where the synchronizer lines up in relation where it used to be, it only matters when the cylinder is at TDC, and the pin is in the middle of the window. Maybe your syn/sensor was located at 8 o'clock when you took it out, and now it is at the 4 o'clock position? It doesn't matter where it ends up as long as the steps were followed to tell sensor that it is okay to fire the #1 injector as it comes to TDC and the pin is in the middle of the window. The magnet on the sensor itself will acknowledge that the pin just went bye......
Again, me and my ignorance, forgive me for it. I just don't know where this pin is, and less when you associate it with a "window". I need some help locating that pin you talk about.

The position of the shaft of the distributor with the little gear going into the crankshaft WOULD NOT AFFECT THE ENGINE FIRING CYCLE as long as CYL #1 is dead on top, right? Also, do you think it's a good idea to disconnect the battery with the fuel pump fuse too before starting? And please, post the firing cycle of the engine together with some explanation about that pin. I would truly appreciate it, sooooo much. Help me start 2010 squeak-free! It's annoying and I heard it could lock the engine if I don't replace it soon. I don't want any damage, there is a lonely MUSTANG sitting in a parking spot waiting for me to fix just that part. Lend me a hand!:wavey

~Garcia:bigthumbsup
I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
 

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Recently I posted a thread:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...elp-squeaky-egr-valve-seafoaming-process.html

And to go straight to the point, I have a couple of questions on your post SHINERSTANG that I really wanna quote and hope you or someone else may respond to it. Your explanation is AWESOME!! and I mean TOTALLY AWESOME!! I just happen to have a hard time understanding some things I would like to remark on to make sure:


Here, What did you mean by "bump over the motor" until you can feel air blow out of the hole? Is it to twist the main crank of the motor and force an engine cycle in order to put #1 cyl on top? Yes


Very important question here, Do you actually put a screwdriver inside the COMBUSTION CHAMBER through the opening of spark plug #1!? It seems like an "AY CARAMBA" moment when I heard it since I've always heard nothing goes in there. I just need confirmation before I do it... but I trust you on that. Also, if I have an automatic trasmission, I should set it to NEUTRAL before I attempt to move the engine, correct? Once you feel the #1 Cylinder coming up on the compression stroke, you stop, and use a socket on the crank pulley to ensure the cylinder is all the way up top. It is easier to stick a screwdriver into the sparkplug hole so you can feel when it comes all the way up. You will not hurt your piston if you are hand turning the motor at this point. The car can be in park, just disconnect your fuel pump fuse so you are not throwing fuel into the cylinders and disconnect your plug going to your coilpack. No gas, no spark, no chance of starting.


This is where ignorance kicks in:weeps ... I need a picture, a sketch or something of that PIN that you refer to. I believe it should be between the black sensor cap and the shaft of the synchronizer. I know there is a positive and negative on the black cap, but I have not dissassemble the part myself yet. I'm gonna need a lot of luck on this one. I'm a mechanic by heart and a little practice, but not by theory.


Again, me and my ignorance, forgive me for it. I just don't know where this pin is, and less when you associate it with a "window". I need some help locating that pin you talk about.

The position of the shaft of the distributor with the little gear going into the crankshaft WOULD NOT AFFECT THE ENGINE FIRING CYCLE as long as CYL #1 is dead on top, right? Also, do you think it's a good idea to disconnect the battery with the fuel pump fuse too before starting? And please, post the firing cycle of the engine together with some explanation about that pin. I would truly appreciate it, sooooo much. Help me start 2010 squeak-free! It's annoying and I heard it could lock the engine if I don't replace it soon. I don't want any damage, there is a lonely MUSTANG sitting in a parking spot waiting for me to fix just that part. Lend me a hand!:wavey Correct on position it does not matter where the sensor(distributor) is located. As long as you are on TDC of #1, and the pin is in the window, you are free and clear. The only way to see the pin is to remove your sensor with the 6mm(?) bolts on the top of it. Once you remove that, you will see a metal pin that spins when you crank the motor over. That is the pin that I'm speaking of.


I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
My answers are in bold above.....
 
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