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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am posting this in case someone is thinking of buying an older stang. This one I bought new in Feb '13 and I have a history of owning since 1973 when I also bought a new one (I'm in my 60s so to diffuse the "right boomer" up front).

There is lots of excitement about with these 70s stangs and to be honest, I owned one and they simply didn't run very well. I still have the factory invoice from Nov '73 in my scrap book. This wasn't a great car. Engine run-on after turning the key off, rattles, terribly rough cars. Some put the blame on bad gas, we had the oil embargo in those days and the Saudi suppliers may have sold us the lowest crude available. You have to understand, gas jumped from 29 cents to 36 cents a gallon and that was a huge cost for the enthusiast.

I came back to the brand with a 2003 and liked it better. The car had a few options on it, but I always said the next one I ordered was coming loaded. In high school my first mustang was bare except for mag wheels and a vinyl roof (yes, a popular option was a vinyl rough). The '03 had maybe an auto and electric windows. In 2013 Ford came out with the 305 HP V6 and this was a GT in my mind. Remember, coming from an era when the v8 put out 200hp.

Today, I have 33K miles. Have I had trouble? No, but I watched people's odometers turn by here on the forum (I've been here a long time) and the one thing you want to look out for in both the v8 and the v6 is the water pump. These go out because of a coolant degas hose to the radiator. It is easy to tell if you check, pinch squeeze the tube and see if you come to a hard valve about half way. It prevents air bubbles hitting the water pump. No valve in that tube is why the pumps fail. Some people had it happen during warranty and Ford started installing the new degas hose with the valve when they did the job. Whenever Ford starts doing EXTRA stuff under a warranty repair... well take notice it is on all the cars that model year. Chances are if the stang you are looking at (all 2011-14) is soft all the way down it is missing a one-way valve in that hose. I flushed my radiator at year 6 and replaced that degas hose with a motorcraft part for about $30. Easy to fix. Go ahead and do a fluid change in the radiator. I drive around with the clean-up solvent for 2-3 days before the radiator flush. Don't do it for 15 minutes, let it run awhile. Drive it like normal. Turn the defroster and the cabin heat so you get the junk in those waterways. Rinse it good and either by diluted antifreeze or not (but use ONLY DISTILLED WATER).

The other issues have been the airbags on both the passenger and the driver needed to be replaced per recall. I swear Ford was not concerned about it. I got upset with them as I was under full warranty at the time. This is old news, but mine took all the way to year 5 to be completed. Most people would have traded in or whatever by this time (and I knew it was a problem in 2015 so driving around an unsafe newer car really turned me sour on Ford for a long time). When they did the passenger side they were a bit upset with me as I rewired all the electronics (kept steering wheel controls) and I guess they needed to gut it so putting it back together after the air bag was on their dime. Again, they never should have put that stupid sync 2 in the Mustang.

Head unit is a sham. I have a premium which included updated stereo with voice nav (no screen). First mod I did was tear into the speaker doors to replace those puppies. Know what I found in there? A toy speaker like what you would see in a kid's electric keyboard. I was so miffed, nearly took that speaker into the dealer to show him what was in there. I just replaced them. There's an old note I did you'll find here on the procedure to make my "Kickers" work. I also updated to a navigation screen from the "Ford Sync 2" and that did come out looking factory built. You may find some old posting here when I did that as I got it from American Muscle. It is a DYI job, but why Ford had a little LED screen that said "turn right in 3 miles" was absolutely a sick joke. All of the premium electronics still work as new - color choice interior, any parameter r you want in the middle (trans temp, air temp, voltage etc). Non-premium stangs don't have the middle digital gages or the interior LEDs. Mine has door threshold lighted, foot wells. etc. The speedometer dials can go any color you want.

Interior wise, I've keep the leather seats looking new. I use McGuire's all in one today, can't remember what I started using it was a 2 step application. If you see cracks in the leather by now, move on. There are people who care for their stang and keep the interior up to snuff. I also would inspect the rubber seals around the doors, windows and trunk. In the Spring, I put a little motor oil on my finger and run it deep into those seals. They look pretty good today.

I think my car came with summer summer pirelli zero tires. Maybe got 27K miles out of them. If you see them on this model year check the date, it they are factory original make sure you consider pricing new shoes in your offer.

Zero problems with electronics - heated seats, windows, passenger and driver electric seats all work fine. I baby this car and no winter driving (I am in Iowa) so put her in storage every November.

This model year has a solid rear axle (SRA). Know that going in, ok? No IRS so you can have some handling problems if you take a rough road or go too fast in a curve. I liked the SRA in the 69-73 era we liked to put air shocks in the rear of the car. Every car on the road back then if you were 22 or younger you had air shocks. This was natural to me having a SRA and gave it a retro feel. As I write this I should do a differential oil change, but I am preventive oriented.

Brakes - good. Never replaced and I don't track so no surprise. I live in a rural area so not lots of stop and go driving.

Plastic intake manifold. No issues. I think earlier stangs had these and they were trouble. I wouldn't turbo this engine (you will never get your money back if you do), but this car has not been to the track (obviously). My 24 year old grandson is a gear head and he hates these. For my purposes, they work find. Check the boards here and see if many crack or cause issues. I think they refined the intake and most cars are plastic today.

Mine has the pony puddle lights (I bought mine with the appearance package). I swear this puddle light is the coolest thing yet. It sits under the side mirror molding. New, I had a lamp go out within a few months and thought it was a cheap gimmick. Ford replaced it though and it still works.

Cabin air filter is in a terrible location. It is inserted from the engine bay. I hate that. If things smell bad do replace yours, cheap and easy but I tore the firewall insulation in the process so haven't been back in there to inspect.

Gas & oil changes. I do mine only once per year. For me it at about 3,000 miles. I use synthetic 5W-30 and Ford calls for a synthetic blend. Your oil change alert will come on too soon if you use the synthetic as it is based on blended. Do what is right for you. Gas, trust me you do not need premium or higher octane in the V6. I've never had trouble with 87 octane (I think in higher altitudes it might be 85 octane - in Colorado or similar). No pings or knocks like in my 70s new mustang ... dang that first car left me with a bad taste in my mouth on stangs for a long time.

I think this should be a good buy if you can find one under 75k miles it should be a good purchase. Check water pump history, brake shoes etc. The V6 really doesn't have the roar of a V8 so don't expect one. Some people do mods on here, but it still doesn't growl like the GT. This is a good car if you are under age 25 as the v6 will have drastically lower insurance rates. Engine pull in the v6 is fine. Really there is no bigger engine needed if you need to pass on the highway or whatever. Drag race a Camero, no. Didn't buy it for that.

Keeping mine and maybe the next one in 2-3 more years. She still shines in my garage and looks new. Hope this helps!

ken
 

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Nice write up :) I'll be 68 years old in a few days :(. I know what your talking about. I remember 29.9 gas and sometimes gas stations would have a 'gas' war, and the price went down to 19.9-26.9 a gallon :)
 

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Great write up, very informative. I'm a little younger (50) but I do remember the older muscle cars from my brothers. The cheapest I remember gas was around fifty cents as my first job at 13 was pumping gas
 

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Great write up, very informative. I'm a little younger (50) but I do remember the older muscle cars from my brothers. The cheapest I remember gas was around fifty cents as my first job at 13 was pumping gas

The underwear I have on now, are older than you :(
 
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HAHAHA, sounds like they don't make them like they use to. Must be the 'ol fruit of the loom
 
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How are the ones with 100k or so miles on them? Yours is still pretty “new.” I’d hope and expect there wouldn’t be any troubles at 30k.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How are the ones with 100k or so miles on them? Yours is still pretty “new.” I’d hope and expect there wouldn’t be any troubles at 30k.
These cars over 100K are fine for the most part. I would put a price penalty on the mileage but I get that some people drive them year around. I wouldn't hesitate on a 100K if they have documentation on the water pump replacement and again check that hose going to the radiator bottle- easy to do just pinch along that line and see if you feel the "hard" one way valve. Personally, I wouldn't buy a car that high in mileage. Also, the hose might be caught at the factory in the 2014 model year.
 

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If
These cars over 100K are fine for the most part. I would put a price penalty on the mileage but I get that some people drive them year around. I wouldn't hesitate on a 100K if they have documentation on the water pump replacement and again check that hose going to the radiator bottle- easy to do just pinch along that line and see if you feel the "hard" one way valve. Personally, I wouldn't buy a car that high in mileage. Also, the hose might be caught at the factory in the 2014 model year.
I wouldn’t buy a car that has high mileage either. But I have bought a car with 36k and it has a 100+ thousand now and I’m still paying on it. That’s probably a little common.
This type of stuff is what I was wondering about. The motor and trans should last a good while, usually everything else falls apart around them.
 

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I do not have any handling problems out of mine, been driving Mountain roads since the late 70's with SRA and some with a front straight axle (Peterbuilt, Kenworth and Mack) and it will hit 1.24 G's in the corners and that day embarrassed the crap out of someone in a C7 Corvette that was pissed off that he could not outrun a Mustang and looked like he was about to cry when I said it was a V6. This is a car with the right Suspension mods and a good set of sticky tires is a road course beast.
I am actually hoping to get up to a 1.25 G reading going both ways (only made it to 1.17 going to the right) and I am running stock GT 14" Brembo Brakes in front with 2013-14 GT500 13.8" rears

20201108_132801.jpg 2671897.jpg

Awesome Write up, my First Pony car was a 1973 Cougar, It did have a 4 Bolt Main Cleveland and a 4 speed top loader but I had Gran Torino's and Ranchero's that all handled well before that (to just have 1/2 the money I spent in modifying my cars I would be rich).
 

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Great write-up. I got a 2012 red convertible V-6 manual in 2016 with 22K miles. Now at 60K with not a single problem. I use Pennzoil Platinum oil with Fram UltraGuard synthetic oil filter, change after about 8K miles. I sent the first couple changes off to Blackstone for analysis, came back with excellent measures. I'm also an old guy - turning 65 this month. Thought about getting an MGW shifter to address the sloppy shifting, but I mostly just cruise on an interstate, so decided not to. Really my only complaint about the car is the imprecise shifting; my 1982 Alfa Romeo Spider had much better shifting.
 
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I put the Blowfish racing bracket on mine, it helped a bunch.
 
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