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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed this sometime last week, not too happy... It's on the drivers side of the hood, about 8 inches from the front edge, about 2 inches from the edge of the "power dome". I would attempt to take care of this myself if it were located somewhere else, but I don't want to take any chances with a location as highly visible as the hood. Suggestions as to how to get this fixed? Anyone in the NJ area know of a good place that could fix this?

 

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I noticed this sometime last week, not too happy... It's on the drivers side of the hood, about 8 inches from the front edge, about 2 inches from the edge of the "power dome". I would attempt to take care of this myself if it were located somewhere else, but I don't want to take any chances with a location as highly visible as the hood. Suggestions as to how to get this fixed? Anyone in the NJ area know of a good place that could fix this?

ive had the same thing on my race red mustang and i am JUST about to have its first oil change (3k miles) it broke my heart seeing it on my hood. I just washed it the other day and noticed this awful black mark on the lip of the hood. It's like tar but i have not gone anywhere there has been road work.
 

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I know it hurts to see our cars get any kind of damage on them but thats so small I dont see any reason to fix it. Especially if its a DD. If you REALLY need to just get some touch up paint and put some on that spot. I did this with my first car's rear bumper and you couldnt even see any of the damage on it from my grandpa. :bigthumbsup
 

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I know it sucks, but if you drive the car things like this are going to happen. That's really nothing more than normal wear and tear.

As far as a fix? take it by a body shop and ask them about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know it hurts to see our cars get any kind of damage on them but thats so small I dont see any reason to fix it. Especially if its a DD.
It is a DD, and it's pretty easy to notice it despite its size. It stands out like a sore thumb from many different angles.

As for the clear bra suggestion, I had considered getting one but haven't pulled the trigger yet. This damage is at least 8 inches up from the start of the hood, so I'm not sure if most clear bra installations would have protected that high up on the hood in the first place.
 

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I can tell you to expect a lot more, on the bumper & front fenders too. I'm going to pull the trigger on a bra for the bumper, but don't like the idea of it much beyond that. I prefer a nice wax shine. I've also tried Dr Color Chip, it's easy to use and an improvement, but doesn't look perfect. I've given up on having a perfect daily driver.
 

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Ugh, sorry about the rock mark or chip so early in the game.

I'm hoping to not need this but I see Groot's Garage has a cool touch up kit that uses syringes to apply the paint in a precision manner and more importantly extract it back out if you got too much or don't like how it's looking.
 

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If it is a daily driver, throw some touch up on there and call it a day! You will never notice that!
 

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I've found the Duplicolor touch up brush/pen bottles always dry out for me and result in poor application. What is everyone's favorite touch up paint? Ford/OEM? Something else?
 

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It sure does suck. I've only had mine for two weeks and have a very small rock chip on the bumper. I heard it when it happened and said to myself, "that's ganna leave a mark!"

I'm fortunate that it's not readily noticeable to the average Joe, but my eyes lock-on to it immediately. I'm sure you do the same thing. Hope you get it worked out.
 

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I got a couple myself in the leading edge of the hood,I was able to repair them myself, took about an hour each,but I could not find them if I looked for them,it's pretty straight forward to do if you know what to do with paint and such.
In a nut shell, I used OEM touch up paint,applied a spot of paint, let that dry for a couple of days ( it has to fully harden and set) the first application when applied was "nicely domed" but as it dries up, it settles back low in the chip, thus the reason why a few days later a second application has to be applied.
Once the second application of paint has dried up and fully cured ( hard) and it is sitting higher than the original paint,I proceeded to use a 3000 grit finishing water sand paper rolled on to a pencil and very carefully sanded it down to the OEM paint level,making sure the only place I touched with the sand paper was the "domed" paint.
From then on in, I use my orbital, and fine rubbing compound, then went over the area with reduction polish ( it's a polish but has "cutting properties", finished it off using a quality sealer, then a quality wax... there is nothing to see because it is completely gone, disappeared,removed!!!!!
The quality of the paint used on these cars is pretty good, BUT the top clear coat is cheap and ridiculously soft... a landing fly would damage it LOL.
clear coat is also way too thin especially in the car's leading edges ( entire front end) these are the spots that should have a couple extra clear coats applied.
 

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Thank government regulation and the EPA for the soft paint used on modern automobiles.

A clear bra is a great investment!
 

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Thank government regulation and the EPA for the soft paint used on modern automobiles.

A clear bra is a great investment!
Yeah water based paints don't hold up nearly as well as the old solvent based paints. It's telling how bad new paints are with the rising popularity of clear bra. As bad as some may thing the Mustang paint is it's still far better than some of the crap coming from Japan. New Subaru, Toyota, and Mitsubishi paint is the absolute worst automotive paint I've ever seen. IMO car manufacturers are passing on the cost of these substandared paints to the consumer as now when you purchase a new car you are forced to spend $1000 right off the bat on clear bra to protect your investment because the paint isn't up to the standards of solvent bases paint.
 

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damn PoitNarf, sorry to see and hear your baby has been scratched already. that is one my biggest fears with all my highway driving i do to and from work.

i would try the paint pen thing and just do your best to paint over it and mask it. then seriously consider the 3M paint protection film (clear bra). i am already in contact with a guy who does it so if you need his info, let me know i will get it to you. he has lots of experience with mustangs from what he has told me and shown me in pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
In a nut shell, I used OEM touch up paint,applied a spot of paint, let that dry for a couple of days ( it has to fully harden and set) the first application when applied was "nicely domed" but as it dries up, it settles back low in the chip, thus the reason why a few days later a second application has to be applied.
Once the second application of paint has dried up and fully cured ( hard) and it is sitting higher than the original paint,I proceeded to use a 3000 grit finishing water sand paper rolled on to a pencil and very carefully sanded it down to the OEM paint level,making sure the only place I touched with the sand paper was the "domed" paint.
From then on in, I use my orbital, and fine rubbing compound, then went over the area with reduction polish ( it's a polish but has "cutting properties", finished it off using a quality sealer, then a quality wax... there is nothing to see because it is completely gone, disappeared,removed!!!!!
The quality of the paint used on these cars is pretty good, BUT the top clear coat is cheap and ridiculously soft... a landing fly would damage it LOL.
clear coat is also way too thin especially in the car's leading edges ( entire front end) these are the spots that should have a couple extra clear coats applied.
Thanks for the advice. I guess if I take my time and follow your directions it might turn out pretty good. I'm going to grab some touch up paint from my dealer so I can at least get the process started.
 

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Thank government regulation and the EPA for the soft paint used on modern automobiles.

A clear bra is a great investment!
Well let me just say I agree to disagree with you, take a closer look ( and hardness) of a Benz paint, don't stop there, look at Volvo, BMW,Jag Mini, and a slew of other brands.
All the above use water based paints,none are in contravention to ANY government paint regulations, applying a premium clear coat that cures diamond hard, when bought in massive bulk only costs pennies more by the gallon than inferior quality paints.
You can shoot a BB gun at 50 ft at a clear coat manufactured by Dazik ( a swedish paint co) and not mark it, I can mention a few more quality paint manufactures out there,but I'm sure you get my drift.
The real blame sits squarely on the bean counters dictating to auto manufactures what THEIR allowable budget is regarding paint, as long as it meets minimum trade standards,is all they are concerned with.
When was the last time you seen or heard a TV or print ad mentioning Ford's quality paint process???
Didn't think so... glance through above mentioned brands and almost ALL mentions the quality paints and finishes used on their products, it's more like" customer be dammed"
Seems to me the word "Quality" is more of a buzz word than what it represented 10 years ago!
 
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