Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have been able to remove both of my door hinge after a very long and tiring process. Since I have purchased the right angle adapter for when I tackle the passenger side. I figured while I am in there I might as well replace the door spring as well as the roller wheel so that my door will stop slamming off my leg.

After removing the roller hinge pin and wheel off the driver side I am now unable to insert and replace the new pin. It seems as though the splines are shot on the hinge. Has anybody else had this issue? and if so have you come up with a solution? I have searched through many forums and can't find anything.

Thanks Adam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Ive replaced the door hinge pins & bushings,but I haven't tackled the roller or flat spring yet.However the following video goes through the procedure of replacing the spring.
You will have to either buy new hinges & have somebody remove the old hinges,which are welded to the door,then weld the new ones in place or find some pins identical to yours with a slightly larger diameter.You might have done this already,but if not,youll have to remove the wheel & plastic splash shield behind it,to access the spring.

https://lmr.com/products/83-93-Mustang-Lower-Door-Hinge-Spring-Install-Video
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
I have not done this myself. But from what you say it sounds like the fit between the hinge and roller pin is shot so that a press fit no longer exists. I agree with wbrockstar that the most expedient solution is to carefully weld the pin in place once installed. Should not take more than a couple of quick zaps with a wire feed welder. If the roller is plastic then better have a wet towel on hand to quickly quench the weld.


Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
I have not done this myself. But from what you say it sounds like the fit between the hinge and roller pin is shot so that a press fit no longer exists. I agree with wbrockstar that the most expedient solution is to carefully weld the pin in place once installed. Should not take more than a couple of quick zaps with a wire feed welder. If the roller is plastic then better have a wet towel on hand to quickly quench the weld.


Randy
I think he was talking about replacement hinges not the roller pins you do not want to weld those in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,057 Posts
Hello,

I have been able to remove both of my door hinge after a very long and tiring process. Since I have purchased the right angle adapter for when I tackle the passenger side. I figured while I am in there I might as well replace the door spring as well as the roller wheel so that my door will stop slamming off my leg.

After removing the roller hinge pin and wheel off the driver side I am now unable to insert and replace the new pin. It seems as though the splines are shot on the hinge. Has anybody else had this issue? and if so have you come up with a solution? I have searched through many forums and can't find anything.

Thanks Adam

I plan on doing the hing pins on mine in the very near future.
I picked up the kit last week. I have viewed the video by LMR. And
if you noticed they replaced one that had been replaced before so it was
much easier. Thats the thing about some of those videos produced by
companies selling the items they are showing you how to install. I recently
replaced window run channels, door to body weatherstripping and window
guide bushings. Referring to there videos on the installation they seem to
be a little incomplete. My installation went fairly smooth with only a few
snags. The guide bushings were a big pain and the video makes it look so
easy. I have to admit that after doing all that it was definately worth the
effert. No more window rattle. When you install the the wheel pin make sure
the splines on the new pin line up with the splines in the hinge. In most cases
it is not the wheel but the spring that goes bad. if worst comes to worst you can
just use the old pin if it still looks good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I apologize, I am talking about the roller wheel pin which has the spindles on both sides. I have already replaced the hinge pins for the door fixing the sag.

The spindle on the inside of the hinge appears to be shot and I am unable to insert the roller pin into its spot. I wasn't sure if anyone had ever gone with a bolt and nut set up or if it would even work. Or something with a codder pin on one side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Are there grooves physically cut into the hinge hole that the pin splines mate with or are the grooves there simply because the pin splines were used to dig into the hinge to keep the pin from falling out of the hole?? Regardless, I dont see why a bolt & nut couldn't be used,as long as the nut & bolt head sticking out of the hole doesnt come into contact with anything.I wonder though,if the pin being stationary (not spinning inside the hinge hole) is what helps the roller spin better or does it not matter?? If it doesnt matter,a bolt & nut might work????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I would think the space within the hole would have splines cut into it to match the spindle pin. I was wondering the same thing about the pin being stationary and the wheel turning. I suppose I could just try it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Have you opened & shut the door while viewing the roller from the wheel well,after removing the splash shield?? If so,did the roller spin as it moved across the flat spring or did it remain stationary,like the splined pin,and just glide across the spring??
The reason I asked is,I was on Late Model Resto yesterday, looking up the roller & pin,and I began reading a few reviews on the roller.One customer said his roller had flat spots in it and it had just been installed 2 weeks ago.That sounds like his roller was stationary to me,just gliding across the spring.However if its got flat spots,that tells me the roller should spin as it moves across the spring instead of staying stationary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
Are there grooves physically cut into the hinge hole that the pin splines mate with or are the grooves there simply because the pin splines were used to dig into the hinge to keep the pin from falling out of the hole?? Regardless, I dont see why a bolt & nut couldn't be used,as long as the nut & bolt head sticking out of the hole doesnt come into contact with anything.I wonder though,if the pin being stationary (not spinning inside the hinge hole) is what helps the roller spin better or does it not matter?? If it doesnt matter,a bolt & nut might work????
I believe the splines are there to hold the pin stationary so the roller will roll, I also believe that the pin is pressed in and shouldn't just drop in. May need a dead blow hammer to tap it in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
I believe the splines are there to hold the pin stationary so the roller will roll, I also believe that the pin is pressed in and shouldn't just drop in. May need a dead blow hammer to tap it in
Yeah I imagine it was pressed in at the factory.Those nice pneumatic/electric tools Ford used on the assembly line makes installation so easy,but repairs are a pita for us with hammers & s***.Look at how easy they make it look installing a dash on the assembly line,but we all know how many hours it takes us to remove the dash.A friend of mine has worked at the Nissan plant in Smyrna for years.Lucky a**.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top