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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

I have a question related to mustang engine. I have seen an ad of a used mustang advertised as 2007 roush mustang. however when i checked the picture of the engine it didn't seem like it is a roush mustang as there is no roush signature on the engine cover. Am I right?
 

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you probably wouldn't see the signature through all that dirt anyway, LOL ...

"Roush" is an aftermarket modifier of Mustangs (and other cars). They start with a normal Mustang and then add their "upgrade" package to it. There are several different Roush packages, and some of them do not touch the engine at all because they are appearance only packages. I am not sure if they put a signature or badge on all of their cars, but it might be on the dashboard, not on the engine.
 

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2014 GT, 1967 Fairlane GTA
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That is quite dusty but if the car is in Israel that would certainly explain it. Looking at the condition of the plastic fluid reservoirs it looks like it has higher mileage though.
Every genuine Roush will have a white decal with the Roush serial # on the passenger side door jamb regardless of Stage level. There will also be a Jack Roush signature under the fuel and temp gauges. There is no engine compartment decal at least on the Stage 1. You might be thinking of Saleen. I don't think that the Stage 2 got any extra decals or plates either but the Stage 3 certainly did. All Stages will have a center trunk lid emblem saying 1, 2, or 3.
The Stage 1 came with a Roush exhaust. It also came standard with 18" chrome 5 stars wheels, 6 piece body kit, lower valance fog lamps, rear spoiler, fender badges, decklid emblem, embroidered floor mats, and front windshield banner. There were also plenty of other options available to add on top of the standard Stage 1 features. Some of them are hood scoop, carbon fiber interior accents, quarter window louvers, center body stripes, sport seating, short throw shifter with white ball, pedals, and door sill plates.
Alloy 2007 Roush Stage 1 Ford Mustang Coupe - MustangAttitude.com Photo Detail
 

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2014 GT, 1967 Fairlane GTA
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it has 109 k miles on it.
It shouldn't need a rebuild with that little mileage on it. The 3V timing kit and the rocker arms in the heads need to be replaced with the revised Ford brand parts though.
Problem 1: when i first drove the car it ran fine. But when I went above 3500 rpm it started jerking and it produced a sound similar to snoring. When I keep stepping on the gas the car looses its balance and tends to oversteer. the more rpm it reaches the more the shaking gets and the more there is a tendency to oversteer.

Problem 2: While on first gear the car doesnt feel alright. I feel some shaking and vibration but unlike in the first situation it is not aggressive. however, when i move to second gear the car is more stable
Is this car an automatic or manual?
My solution was to take it to two mechanics. the first one told me it was the throttle body. but there was no issue with it. it is working fine. since when i replaced it with another working throttle body same problem was persistent.

The second mechanic told me that the car generated many error codes and whenever he plugs in the scanner new codes (different from the old ones) appeared and so he suggested changing the ECU
If you paid the 2nd mechanic to assess the car then he should have given you a printout of the codes or at least told you what they all were.
You need to have the car scanned and get the actual trouble codes that are registered. From there you can start to figure out what might be wrong with it. Without the codes you won't be able to do much.
Have you had the alternator voltage output checked under a load?
Have you had the battery checked?
You can't buy a new PCM(computer). If your PCM was the problem then these days you send it out to a professional module repair service and get it fixed.
I went to ford dealership and I learned that the car is canceled (carfax report did not show that) and he doubted that the problem lies in the ECU

The 2nd mechanic was not professional and didn't explain anything and I felt that he just wanted to get rid of the car.

I'm really in doubt. there are lot of symptoms like the check the engine lights and tc not engaging and i m trying to see if there is another way of dealing with this situation

Could you please share your thoughts on this. the mechanic wasn't professional enough to tell me what is really going on and I feel lost.
What does "the car is canceled" mean?
What did the dealer say the problem was? They should also have given you an assessment along with the codes that were registered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
it's manual

If you paid the 2nd mechanic to assess the car then he should have given you a printout of the codes or at least told you what they all were.
He said faulty codes but did not specify. I did not pay him.
Have you had the alternator voltage output checked under a load?
no
Have you had the battery checked?
Yest I just checked it. it works fine
You can't buy a new PCM(computer). If your PCM was the problem then these days you send it out to a professional module repair service and get it fixed.
This is what I thought of. But I'm an expat here and most technicians don't have this high level technique. I took it to a guy who programs ECU and he told me that ECUs can't be repaired which is not true.

What does "the car is canceled" mean?
What did the dealer say the problem was?
You need to have the car scanned and get the actual trouble codes that are registere
Yes i'm planning on buying an obd 2 scanner and doing it on my own in the presence of incompetent mechanics
and I will post the codes here

What does "the car is canceled" mean?
What did the dealer say the problem was? They should also have given you an assessment along with the codes that were registered.
So basically it means that ford recognises the car as totaled and should nt be driven on public roads. Also they will not examine it

I wanted to know abojut the car history but they said they didnt know the issue exactly
Speedometer Vehicle Odometer Car Gauge

So the battery works fine. I checked with the multimeter 12v

I stress tested it and the number went up and reached 14.17v.

Im going to do a full diagnosis. Hoepefull nothing serious
 
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