That is quite dusty but if the car is in Israel that would certainly explain it. Looking at the condition of the plastic fluid reservoirs it looks like it has higher mileage though.
Every genuine Roush will have a white decal with the Roush serial # on the passenger side door jamb regardless of Stage level. There will also be a Jack Roush signature under the fuel and temp gauges. There is no engine compartment decal at least on the Stage 1. You might be thinking of Saleen. I don't think that the Stage 2 got any extra decals or plates either but the Stage 3 certainly did. All Stages will have a center trunk lid emblem saying 1, 2, or 3.
The Stage 1 came with a Roush exhaust. It also came standard with 18" chrome 5 stars wheels, 6 piece body kit, lower valance fog lamps, rear spoiler, fender badges, decklid emblem, embroidered floor mats, and front windshield banner. There were also plenty of other options available to add on top of the standard Stage 1 features. Some of them are hood scoop, carbon fiber interior accents, quarter window louvers, center body stripes, sport seating, short throw shifter with white ball, pedals, and door sill plates.
Alloy 2007 Roush Stage 1 Ford Mustang Coupe - MustangAttitude.com Photo Detail

It shouldn't need a rebuild with that little mileage on it. The 3V timing kit and the rocker arms in the heads need to be replaced with the revised Ford brand parts though.

bloodytiger757 said:

it has 109 k miles on it.

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bloodytiger757 said:

Problem 1: when i first drove the car it ran fine. But when I went above 3500 rpm it started jerking and it produced a sound similar to snoring. When I keep stepping on the gas the car looses its balance and tends to oversteer. the more rpm it reaches the more the shaking gets and the more there is a tendency to oversteer.

Problem 2: While on first gear the car doesnt feel alright. I feel some shaking and vibration but unlike in the first situation it is not aggressive. however, when i move to second gear the car is more stable

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Is this car an automatic or manual?

bloodytiger757 said:

My solution was to take it to two mechanics. the first one told me it was the throttle body. but there was no issue with it. it is working fine. since when i replaced it with another working throttle body same problem was persistent.

The second mechanic told me that the car generated many error codes and whenever he plugs in the scanner new codes (different from the old ones) appeared and so he suggested changing the ECU

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If you paid the 2nd mechanic to assess the car then he should have given you a printout of the codes or at least told you what they all were.
You need to have the car scanned and get the actual trouble codes that are registered. From there you can start to figure out what might be wrong with it. Without the codes you won't be able to do much.
Have you had the alternator voltage output checked under a load?
Have you had the battery checked?
You can't buy a new PCM(computer). If your PCM was the problem then these days you send it out to a professional module repair service and get it fixed.

bloodytiger757 said:

I went to ford dealership and I learned that the car is canceled (carfax report did not show that) and he doubted that the problem lies in the ECU

The 2nd mechanic was not professional and didn't explain anything and I felt that he just wanted to get rid of the car.

I'm really in doubt. there are lot of symptoms like the check the engine lights and tc not engaging and i m trying to see if there is another way of dealing with this situation

Could you please share your thoughts on this. the mechanic wasn't professional enough to tell me what is really going on and I feel lost.

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What does "the car is canceled" mean?
What did the dealer say the problem was? They should also have given you an assessment along with the codes that were registered.

You need to know the codes to do much of anything. Scan the car and post them here.
Check what the battery voltage is with the engine off after the car has sat for a few hours and post it here. It won't be 12v exactly and if it is then you have a bad battery.
If it turned out that you had a bad PCM then you don't just send it to anybody to have them attempt to fix it. You send it to a dedicated professional automotive module repair service. Many such companies exist and you send them your PCM and then they test/fix it and send it back to you. If the car was imported from the USA then you can send the PCM to the USA to have it fixed properly by one of the many repair services here.
Any car history report like Carfax(if available in your country) will divulge if the car was totaled. It should also say if it was fixed, certified, and if it has a salvage title.