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Discussion Starter #1
With the recent bevy of camshaft threads it made me wonder for those of us looking into cams now or in the near future what are our options in terms of different companies that make them:

Also what are peoples differing opinions on the various camshafts available in terms of $$$ and quality/technology.

Ill start with the few that I know of and you can add to the list if I missed any.

FRPP Hot Rod Cams
Livernois
Comp Cams
Blow by racing
 

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Comps for me

I have pulled the trigger on a set of Comp #127400 stage ones, springs and limiter. And might as well do the Steeda delete plugs while he is in there. Just can't see paying that much for just a drop in and some noise.

But I will let you know how they are on the 15th or 16th when I get back.:bigthumbsup
 

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Im throwing in a set of Comps XFI SPR Stage 2s part# 127500 on Aug 22 along with livernoius stage 2 heads Kooks LTs ARP HeadStuds and 39#injectors.

Out of all the people ive talked to ive decided to go with comp. But everybodys opinion is different.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have pulled the trigger on a set of Comp #127400 stage ones, springs and limiter. And might as well do the Steeda delete plugs while he is in there. Just can't see paying that much for just a drop in and some noise.

But I will let you know how they are on the 15th or 16th when I get back.:bigthumbsup
Noice Vapor!!! you must put up a video when the cams are in and dyno #'s... i have the same exhaust as you so we got similar setups!

Im throwing in a set of Comps XFI SPR Stage 2s part# 127500 on Aug 22 along with livernoius stage 2 heads Kooks LTs ARP HeadStuds and 39#injectors.

Out of all the people ive talked to ive decided to go with comp. But everybodys opinion is different.
dang thats quite the setup redfire.... how much is that going to run you $$$?

Im thinking I wanna do either the Comp Cams XFI NSR Stage 1's or the FRPP Hotrod Cams. And yes it makes sense to throw in the CMDP while your at it.

Personally I think L/T headers are more tougher to choose then Cam's redfire... im all over the place trying to decide. I like the kooks, jba's and the bbk's... just not sure which ones to go with stock catted h pipe and boomtubes (although the boomtubes might get too loud with the LT's).

But im wondering is it a good idea to put in some new gaskets just to be on the safe side while your in there doing cams?

Also does anyone know with stage 1 cams are the 3.55's gunna be fine or upgrade in order for that too? I would rather not do gears if i dont have to (rather save the $$$ and put it into aluminum driveshaft).
 

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some gears do require a better gear ratio for RPM wise. Everything im installingis, the Cams/Heads, FRPP 39lb fuel injectors, ARP headstud kit, Cam phaser Bolts, Lockouts, Kooks LT's with KOOKS offroad xpipe, New Head gaskets, Oil/Coolant change too. Then tuned in for the street and a race tune.

My Tuner is charging me around $2-2500 or install and tunning of everything.

Im sure some others will chime in here soon and give there information about what you should do. It took me awhile before i finaly new what setup i was going to go with. Goodluck Jay!:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #6
some gears do require a better gear ratio for RPM wise. Everything im installingis, the Cams/Heads, FRPP 39lb fuel injectors, ARP headstud kit, Cam phaser Bolts, Lockouts, Kooks LT's with KOOKS offroad xpipe, New Head gaskets, Oil/Coolant change too. Then tuned in for the street and a race tune.

My Tuner is charging me around $2-2500 or install and tunning of everything.

Im sure some others will chime in here soon and give there information about what you should do. It took me awhile before i finaly new what setup i was going to go with. Goodluck Jay!:bigthumbsup
that sure is gunna be one quick car after those mods.... maybe do some weight reduction in the form of a aluminum driveshaft and add some uca's and lca's down the road with ultra sticky tires and i bet that car surprises some of the non-intercooled S/C guys for sure.

you gotta post dyno #'s on that when your all done and tuned for sure bud.
 

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I say do a full rotating assembly while you're at it. Possibly stroke it too? That way you'll be forged for when you get your Vortech! ;)
 

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that sure is gunna be one quick car after those mods.... maybe do some weight reduction in the form of a aluminum driveshaft and add some uca's and lca's down the road with ultra sticky tires and i bet that car surprises some of the non-intercooled S/C guys for sure.

you gotta post dyno #'s on that when your all done and tuned for sure bud.
Exaxtly wht i am doing next. Im gunna add Subframe connectors and Put Mickey Thompson Drag Radials on. Im hoping to be around 340-360 wheel.
 

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With the recent bevy of camshaft threads it made me wonder for those of us looking into cams now or in the near future what are our options in terms of different companies that make them:

Also what are peoples differing opinions on the various camshafts available in terms of $$$ and quality/technology.

Ill start with the few that I know of and you can add to the list if I missed any.

FRPP Hot Rod Cams
Livernois
Comp Cams
Blow by racing
I've read great write-ups on all except BBR. It also depends on what your future goals regarding F/I. Iam thrilled with my Ford cams, but if I were to go F/I, I probably would have chose a different set...Head work as well.

Aside from the cost of the cams...I paid 1500 for the install of the cames, delete plates and dyno tune.
 

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Also does anyone know with stage 1 cams are the 3.55's gunna be fine or upgrade in order for that too? I would rather not do gears if i dont have to (rather save the $$$ and put it into aluminum driveshaft).[/quote]

The Comp site states that the 127400's are good with stock gears. But a tune and gear bump to say 3.73 or 3.90's might not hurt. I just stepped back DOWN to a set of 3.73' from 4.10's. I think they to much for N/A with cams. I could start out in 2nd on a level road, and the shift is quick from 1st to 2nd.

That's one of the reasons I am going with the Comp #127400's. The lower end is stonger. I like torque. Not a big top end guy. :gringreen
 

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I just had a set of Comp Cams XFI Stage 2 NSR Cams installed yesterday on my 06 GT. I purchased them from Brenspeed as they had the lowest price ($676.78 including two cam phaser bolts and cam lube). The install price was $500. I can tell the difference on the "butt dyno", but I want to get a dyno tune after I install a couple more mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Exaxtly wht i am doing next. Im gunna add Subframe connectors and Put Mickey Thompson Drag Radials on. Im hoping to be around 340-360 wheel.
Very cool redfire....very cool to see your car progress from the lowering to this now... cant wait to see your dyno #'s... Im gunna say with cams/heads and all that snazzy stuff you get in 350rwhp+ for sure... prolly get in around 360. are you getting the work done from the same guy that lowered your car? i remember me not liking him for some reason cuz of something you told me, lol.



I've read great write-ups on all except BBR. It also depends on what your future goals regarding F/I. Iam thrilled with my Ford cams, but if I were to go F/I, I probably would have chose a different set...Head work as well.

Aside from the cost of the cams...I paid 1500 for the install of the cames, delete plates and dyno tune.
Dang! 1500 for install of just cams and cmdp's and a tune sounds like quite a bit! I guess underestimated the labor costs. what did you have done with the cams FL? I thought the ford racing hod rod cams didnt need valve springs or phaser work?



Also does anyone know with stage 1 cams are the 3.55's gunna be fine or upgrade in order for that too? I would rather not do gears if i dont have to (rather save the $$$ and put it into aluminum driveshaft).

The Comp site states that the 127400's are good with stock gears. But a tune and gear bump to say 3.73 or 3.90's might not hurt. I just stepped back DOWN to a set of 3.73' from 4.10's. I think they to much for N/A with cams. I could start out in 2nd on a level road, and the shift is quick from 1st to 2nd.

That's one of the reasons I am going with the Comp #127400's. The lower end is stonger. I like torque. Not a big top end guy. :gringreen
EXACTLY!!!! You hit the money my man... im looking for more low end power then high end.... im choosing between the FRPP and Comp Cams stage 1's myself.... If I do upgrade gears I will do 3.90 just cuz im at 3.55 and 3.73's might not be enough kick in the pants for me for the $$$.... 4.10's are out of question... Simply put I dont wanna go there. Although I have found myself looking into a short shifter lately... I wonder how much better it really is for daily driving.



I just had a set of Comp Cams XFI Stage 2 NSR Cams installed yesterday on my 06 GT. I purchased them from Brenspeed as they had the lowest price ($676.78 including two cam phaser bolts and cam lube). The install price was $500. I can tell the difference on the "butt dyno", but I want to get a dyno tune after I install a couple more mods.
No doubt brenspeed rocks! I just wish they were closer to me! 500 sounds more reasonable for a cam install.... was that cam install with valve srpings being replaced? i assume not.

Im planning on replacing the phaser bolts and head gaskets when i get my cams put in personally to be on the safe side.
 

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Nooooo way is the guy who did my Spring install ever touching my car again lol.

My tuner who also tunes my 2000SVT Lightning is ging to do my install. I hope to be at 360rwhp. thatd be very nice!

If any1 else here has similiar heads/cams and longtubes installed, what were the #s you put down for RWHP and Track times.

My parts are: Stage 2 Heads Livernois, Stage 2 Comp Cams 127500 XFI SPR, Kooks LongTubes w/OR Xpipe, FRPP 39#Injectors, Livernois Lockouts, ARP Head Stud Kit, and Cam Phaser Bolts.

Thnks Guys!!
 

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I came in at 380 rwhp with a similar setup. I am running the stock injectors though. I figured I would switch that out along with other fuel system upgrades when I upgrade to FI.
 

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If it’s a NSR cam it’s not “big” enough to justify the cost and time involved when judged against the little gains they will net.

If you go for cams plan on long tubes. Each works ok by themselves but they work fantastic when combined.

The cams that are ground to have an intentionally choppy idle are just plain stupid. A choppy idle is a byproduct of a big “race” cam because they run like crap down low. Grinding a cam to run like crap down low to get a choppy idle but not getting the big HP gains up top is about the dumbest thing I have ever heard.

I know that this is not an industry standard yet but it should be. Any multi cam motor MUST have the cams degreed when they are installed or they will not work like they are supposed to. Cam degreeing is incredibly important. I have degreed stock cams that were set up straight from the factory and gained as much as 10% hp and tq. That’s just timing the stock cams correctly.

I suspect the reason for there not being consistent cam data is because they are not being degreed when installed. It’s more than likely that if you put the same part number cam in 5 different motors with the same mods you would get 5 different performance gains if they were not degreed.

 

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I agree with Squid. If I had it to do over I wouldn't do the FRPP Hot Rod Cams. Didn't do my homework. I know someone that did the FRPP cams and LT's and was impressed, I didn't do the LT's and I'm not so impressed with mine.
 

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If it’s a NSR cam it’s not “big” enough to justify the cost and time involved when judged against the little gains they will net.

If you go for cams plan on long tubes. Each works ok by themselves but they work fantastic when combined.

The cams that are ground to have an intentionally choppy idle are just plain stupid. A choppy idle is a byproduct of a big “race” cam because they run like crap down low. Grinding a cam to run like crap down low to get a choppy idle but not getting the big HP gains up top is about the dumbest thing I have ever heard.

I know that this is not an industry standard yet but it should be. Any multi cam motor MUST have the cams degreed when they are installed or they will not work like they are supposed to. Cam degreeing is incredibly important. I have degreed stock cams that were set up straight from the factory and gained as much as 10% hp and tq. That’s just timing the stock cams correctly.

I suspect the reason for there not being consistent cam data is because they are not being degreed when installed. It’s more than likely that if you put the same part number cam in 5 different motors with the same mods you would get 5 different performance gains if they were not degreed.
My Tuner was also telling me about this. I do agree with what you are saying. You seem to know alot on cams.

Alls i was looking for where some peope in the pages who are already running a similiar setup to what i will be soon. I guess you can say im excited for my install lol. Thanks for your help!
 
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