Settings for the Tokico D-Specs

I'm at 3 turns back from the firmest setting.

Yup thats how I run it, its my daily driver with no problems.

I have mine set at 5 back

I'm at 3-3 1/2 for Daily driving, and at dragstrip, full loose in front
and 3-4 in rear

With Eibach Pro Kit on a daily driver 4 turns out in front and 4 and a quarter out in the rear.

Street: Five out in front, four out in rear.
35-series tires, 1-inch wider rear rims.
Autocross: Two out rear, three/3.5 out front.
Drags: Full loose front, full stiff rear.

Thank you all for your input. I have the Steeda Sport Springs on mine.

I have a question about struts/shocks. I understand how mounts and springs dramatically affect the suspension (from first hand experience) but I am not sure about the shocks. With a set of Eibach Pro springs and new competition mounts, how will a new set of shocks/struts affect the handling? Is it the rebound going over bumps or holding up to cornering or what? I confess ignorance on this issue.

Softer in front for Autox?

I guess only one of you repsonded with Autocross settings, but it listed softer in front than in the rear. What is the resoning behind that?

I run Koni Sports and always run the rear one setting softer than the front. Same with pressure. I always run nearly 10 lbs higher in the front tires.

Feedback is appreciated.

mrpepsi said:

I guess only one of you repsonded with Autocross settings, but it listed softer in front than in the rear. What is the resoning behind that?

I run Koni Sports and always run the rear one setting softer than the front. Same with pressure. I always run nearly 10 lbs higher in the front tires.

Feedback is appreciated.

Click to expand...

According to Mr Tokico, a stiffer setting (including sway bars) reduces the cornering power at the stiffened end. Stiffer in the rear means earlier washout in the rear, also known as oversteer. Adding oversteer to a Mustang is usually worthwhile, to a point.

Depending on the tires design, and rim widths, too much air can reduce the contact patch and compliance with camber change. Very-low profile tires may actually benefit from lower pressures, capitalizing on tread area and lack of sidewall flex.

My counselors told me to start with 40 lbs/in^2 in the front, five less in the rear, and try to sense what the tires are doing relative to the car's actions. For the 55-series Pirellis on GT rims, it seemed the starting pressures were about right, although I didn't have opportunity to do much in the way of experimentation.

The strut/shock adjustments were quick and productive: five-out front and five-out rear = understeer; five-out front, four-out rear = near neutral; four-out front, half or one-out rear = a touch of oversteer (more Outs = Softer).

The imminent solo school at Qualcomm Stadium will be my first outing with new wheels/tires, 35-series on 9/10 rims, and a brand new experience with wider rims on the back. Off-ramply speaking, the current setup gives mild understeer on gradual turn-in, maintainable mild oversteer on late-turn-in (aka: tossing).

Whatever happens, it's going to be fun.

I use to race go-carts the set-up is much the same. If the rear end is to stiff the car will become loose in the rear end because there is no flex to put pressure on the outer tire to gain bite. I the car has to much flex in the rear end, it will get to much bite causing the front end to plow. The tire pressures work like a balloon. If you blow a ballon up as large as it will get, then set the balloon on a table and see how much of the surface of the balloon is touching the table (not much) this will also cause the car to become loose. Now deflate the balloon over halfway set it on the table now you see more of the balloon touching the table, this will give the car more bite. These pressures can be used to a loose or push problem.