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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a black '05 mustang (as if you couldn't tell by my name) with a Shaker 500 audio system in it. I've spent the last hour reading through 5 pages worth of forum topics and found a few things that helped but nothing that was very discriptive. Here's my question...

I have the Shaker 500. I want to install a 300 watt amp, and a 12" Alpine subwoofer in the trunk. I want to keep the speakers and 8" subs that are in the doors, as well as the speakers in the rear panel under the window. Can I install the amp and sub in the trunk with the Shaker 500 and if so, where do I wire the RCA's and remote lead on the Shaker 500? I have a wiring diagram of the Shaker 500 that was posted by someone previously, but it doesn't seem to have a pin labeled for the remote lead (but I see two pins in the diagram, one labeled SWC+ and one labeled SWC- which i'm assuming are the RCA's).

As I dont know too much beyond the basic installation of a single amp and sub, I'm probably wrong on the SWC assumption. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot! :)
 

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The Shaker 500 does not have RCA leads on the back. The SWC+ and SWC- contacts won't really do you any good, as RCA-style connectors require both pos and neg for both the left and right channels.

There are a couple of options here. One slightly dirty way to wire it would be to buy a speaker-level to line-level convertor which could be spliced into the speaker wires going to the rear speakers. This convertor, sold at any car audio store, would allow you to get signal to the amp, but the signal would have more noise (distortion, not volume), and thus your subwoofer wouldn't be as clean. You'd also lose some volume on your rear stock speakers, but as you would be running an amplified sub, you may not notice. You can run the remote amp on/off wire off of any switched power lead in the car. The backside of the radio has one. Consult the wiring diagram you have for which pin this is, and simply splice into (not re-route) it.

The second option is one that I am not sure you can do, but I have heard that the connections for the Shaker 1000 trunk-mounted subwoofer are actually in cars with the Shaker 500. I don't know this for sure, but if they are, I'd bet that you'll find all the power, remote on/off, and signal wires you'll need right there. If the harness is not in the car, I'd bet your local Ford dealership's part dept could sell you the stock Shaker 1000 radio-to-sub wiring harness. Cleaner install, but I'd bet much more labor intensive.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I cant clip the RCA plugs off one end and splice them into the SWC+ and SWC- for a mono amp? Do the SWC+ and SWC- have anything to do with amp/sub hookup or the amps/subs in the doors?
 

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So.. I wonder if its true. Are the hookups for the shaker 1000 really in the trunk for a shaker 500 system?
 

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I'm in the exact same situation here. I'm trying to add an amp and sub to the stock 500 system. This is a really easy job on every other car I've ever wired, but not much info seems to exist for the Shaker.

Again, in trying to find the remote turn-on for the amp, does anyone know if I can just tap into the power for the head unit?

Any help greatly appreciated!
 

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All i know is that i went to a couple places and was told there was no way to keep my stock subs and aftermarket subs but i could replace the stock subs with better speakers, so im running the stock speakers with two 10 inch alpine type r's with a 1800w kenwood amp (500 watts RMS) and a capacitor (to save my alternator) sounds great but i think i coulda gotten some better subs like some apline type x's but unfortunately i didnt have that kinda money at the time

Edit: WOW I didnt notice how old this thread was
 

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Dump the Shaker System and get a good one. Alpine sells a Head Unit with Nav and a 7" screen. Not only di you get something you could hook a refridgerator too, but a much much nicer look in the Stang.
 

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I'm in the exact same situation here. I'm trying to add an amp and sub to the stock 500 system. This is a really easy job on every other car I've ever wired, but not much info seems to exist for the Shaker.

Again, in trying to find the remote turn-on for the amp, does anyone know if I can just tap into the power for the head unit?

Any help greatly appreciated!
2006 Mustang V6 Subwoofer Project: Shaker 1100
 

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Ok, here's my first post...be gentle. ;)

I recently bought a 2005 GT with the Shaker 500 system, and like many others want to add a powered subwoofer to the system. The previously mentioned article was great, but I have to ask...is that the ONLY guy who ever put in a powered sub with the Shaker 500 system? I've looked all over and can't seem to find any other posts or websites with similar "how to" info. As I said, that was great info but I'd still like to see how others have installed their subs into a 'Stang with the Shaker 500 system.

Many thanks in advance.
 

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Hey man, I had to do the same thing on my 2002 Mustang. I had to add a remote wire to turn the amp on and off. I found it on the back side of the stereo. It is the same wire that turns your stereo on and off. I just took scotch Locks, which is a cutter in between plastic where you can stick two wires in it and pinch in closed and makes it all one. I am not sure if that is what you are trying to do or not. Reply back and I am pretty sure I can help you out man
 

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This should be sticky'd. Great info
 

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That article is great, except, I would like to have the sub amp turn on/off wih the radio instead of with a switch. There must be a remote turn on for the stock amps. Does anyone know what wire (color)that is? :headscratch:
 

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when i put in my after market stereo the lines to the connector were blue, maybe those are blue also
 

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I installed an Infinity Basslink II 250w RMS 10" powered woofer in the trunk of my 2010 GT. I ran the remote lead from a +12v I found on the pass side of the car. It's down under the kick panel near the floor. I just kept testing with my multi-meter till I found a +12V on a harness that was on with the key on, and off with the key off. Works good, no popping in the speakers and obviously does not kill the cars battery.

I used a line converter to get the signal to the sub. BUT, I used a good one. It's made by Kicker, but I cannot remember the name of it. It sounds good regardless. I have always had Pioneer head units in the past and used the RCA's so I was a little reluctant to try the line output converter, but it works well. The sub woke my system right up. Not enough bass to wake the neighbors up, but enough to make the radio sound great!

The rest of the system was easy to install. Hope some of this info helps.


BTW- That 2006 Install is a great write up. I used the rear speakers for my signals. And actually, I used the same LOCB.2 he did. I maye re-do it like his. Anyone know if the 2006 SHAKER amp harness is the same as the 2010?
 

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Will be doing this to my 06' convertible 'Stang.

Will be making a smaller box due to the roof box stashed in the trunk...

I'll be maxing out the space with 2 10" Kenwood subs @ a Kenwood amp. (As of 9/27/12 $134) @ amazon: Amazon.com: Kenwood P-W1010 350-Watts 10-Inch Bass Party Pack: Car Electronics

My design allows the spare cover to be lifted when necessary. My cover is beefed up with 3/4 plywood floor so I can carry lots of stuff.

The speakers will face rearwards, into the trunk area. Does that make much difference? Does the phase need to be reversed?

Thanks!
 
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