I am going to assume the brake pads were replaced as well even though it's not mentioned. It also sounds like you had done this work yourself? Did you happen to clean the hubs prior to installing the new rotors to have a clean mating surface? Also just because the rotors are new doesn't guarantee they are true. If they're not a premium brand they could have a little warp in them. Did you pull all the slides apart on the new calipers and use lithium grease to ensure free movement? Including greasing the tins that sit on the caliper brackets. To me if a front end part is bad enough to shake the front end above 50 mph it would be bad enough to shake it below that as well
Shaking while Braking Mystery Continues....
So, I own a 2010 Mustang V6 premium with 20 inch wheels. It has 75xxx miles on it and drives like a Champ. It is also my daily driver and over a period of time I have noticed an increase in the steering wheel shake while braking. Higher the speed I brake more the steering wheel shake it was. So, I have done following till now and got following results so far:
1) As a rule of Thumb, I got all the 4 wheels re-balanced and it helped with removing the steering wheel shake due to wheel imbalance while driving from say 55 to 65 mph but didn't help steering wheel shake while braking.
2) Got all 4 new rites installed along with the Wheel re balancing. So, getting all 4 new tires helped with the steering wheel stiffness a little bit and the ride is now smoother, but didn't help steering wheel shake while braking.
3) Replaced all 4 brake rotors with Power stop Z26 performance rotors. And also bled all 4 brake lines like hell and used DOT4 brake fluid instead of DOT3. Largely reduced the steering wheel shakes while braking, So now, I didn't have any steering wheel shaking while braking below 50mph. But steering wheel still shaking while braking over 50mph.
4) Replaced all 4 Brake calipers with Power stop performance Brake Calipers. Did not help with anything.
Now, with all of the above parts replaced and putting in a **** Loads of Money and time in this stupid Issue, I still have Steering wheel shake while braking above 50mph. While braking below 50mph I feel absolutely Nothing at all. It does feel like my steering wheel shakes more while I brake lightly and does not so much when I brake with full force.
I recently got it Check from two mechanic Shops and one of them told me that there is nothing wrong under the Car, my tie rods and control arms looks OK. However, the second mechanic told me that my Lower control arm shows some signs of wear and I should try getting them both replaced along with the Ball joints.
Now, I am on the brink of Braking off....... It is hard for me to believe any mechanic saying anything. Please Help !!! Should I go ahead and get my lower control arms and ball joints replaced???
This is very frustrating for me to keep on putting more and more money over and ever again into the same stupid problem in a car which is supposed to be well built, while my 2003 Nissan has 140K+ miles on it and not even a single problem. Brake Pads are the only thing ever replaced on it and that's about it, oh and it brakes wayyyyy better than mustang. I feel ashamed of buying an American car. Please help !!!
1) As a rule of Thumb, I got all the 4 wheels re-balanced and it helped with removing the steering wheel shake due to wheel imbalance while driving from say 55 to 65 mph but didn't help steering wheel shake while braking.
2) Got all 4 new rites installed along with the Wheel re balancing. So, getting all 4 new tires helped with the steering wheel stiffness a little bit and the ride is now smoother, but didn't help steering wheel shake while braking.
3) Replaced all 4 brake rotors with Power stop Z26 performance rotors. And also bled all 4 brake lines like hell and used DOT4 brake fluid instead of DOT3. Largely reduced the steering wheel shakes while braking, So now, I didn't have any steering wheel shaking while braking below 50mph. But steering wheel still shaking while braking over 50mph.
4) Replaced all 4 Brake calipers with Power stop performance Brake Calipers. Did not help with anything.
Now, with all of the above parts replaced and putting in a **** Loads of Money and time in this stupid Issue, I still have Steering wheel shake while braking above 50mph. While braking below 50mph I feel absolutely Nothing at all. It does feel like my steering wheel shakes more while I brake lightly and does not so much when I brake with full force.
I recently got it Check from two mechanic Shops and one of them told me that there is nothing wrong under the Car, my tie rods and control arms looks OK. However, the second mechanic told me that my Lower control arm shows some signs of wear and I should try getting them both replaced along with the Ball joints.
Now, I am on the brink of Braking off....... It is hard for me to believe any mechanic saying anything. Please Help !!! Should I go ahead and get my lower control arms and ball joints replaced???
This is very frustrating for me to keep on putting more and more money over and ever again into the same stupid problem in a car which is supposed to be well built, while my 2003 Nissan has 140K+ miles on it and not even a single problem. Brake Pads are the only thing ever replaced on it and that's about it, oh and it brakes wayyyyy better than mustang. I feel ashamed of buying an American car. Please help !!!
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I am going to assume the brake pads were replaced as well even though it's not mentioned. It also sounds like you had done this work yourself? Did you happen to clean the hubs prior to installing the new rotors to have a clean mating surface? Also just because the rotors are new doesn't guarantee they are true. If they're not a premium brand they could have a little warp in them. Did you pull all the slides apart on the new calipers and use lithium grease to ensure free movement? Including greasing the tins that sit on the caliper brackets. To me if a front end part is bad enough to shake the front end above 50 mph it would be bad enough to shake it below that as well
I am not sure why you notice it only above 50 MPH; but the shake under light braking suggests some kind of uneven-ness of the rotor surface; or the rotor is not true to the hub.
Since the hubs have not been changed, that might be first place to start -- make sure the mounting surface of the hub is nice and clean, so the rotor will sit on there nice and flat/true.
Another potential "easy" fix is to make sure the brakes are well bedded in. You can look up "brake bedding procedure" on line. Basically this is to make sure that the layer of pad material on the rotor is nice and even, not lumpy, which could cause uneven braking and shaking. If you look at the rotors; does the surface look nice and even; or is there an uneven or wavy appearance to it?
I doubt the ball joints are shot at 75K miles, though it is possible. The standard ball joint play test should confirm that. The lower control arms do not "wear" ; they are pieces of stamped metal. However the bushings can wear and put some slop in the system; in combination with something else that is not even, that might exaggerate the problem, but I doubt that is it. You can get complete front lower control arms with ball joints and bushings for about $200 for the pair.
based on what you described, I think I would try the brake bedding first, because it is the easiest thing to do
Since the hubs have not been changed, that might be first place to start -- make sure the mounting surface of the hub is nice and clean, so the rotor will sit on there nice and flat/true.
Another potential "easy" fix is to make sure the brakes are well bedded in. You can look up "brake bedding procedure" on line. Basically this is to make sure that the layer of pad material on the rotor is nice and even, not lumpy, which could cause uneven braking and shaking. If you look at the rotors; does the surface look nice and even; or is there an uneven or wavy appearance to it?
I doubt the ball joints are shot at 75K miles, though it is possible. The standard ball joint play test should confirm that. The lower control arms do not "wear" ; they are pieces of stamped metal. However the bushings can wear and put some slop in the system; in combination with something else that is not even, that might exaggerate the problem, but I doubt that is it. You can get complete front lower control arms with ball joints and bushings for about $200 for the pair.
based on what you described, I think I would try the brake bedding first, because it is the easiest thing to do
One and a half years ago, I had to replace the original 12 year old lower ball joints on my 2005 GT. It only had 42,000 miles on it at the time. I think, like a lot of things that age might be more damaging than miles.:frown: However, this is not the only S197 I know of with early failure of OEM ball joints.
The only symptom I had was shuddering (wheel shake) under medium to heavy braking pressure anywhere above 40 mph or so, before and after new pads & rotors.
I went ahead and had them replace the entire lower control arm assy on both sides because it is actually less total money than paying for ball joints and bushings and MASSIVE labor charges. It cost me just over $300.00 out the door. Separately, neither the rear bushings nor the ball joints are a piece of cake laborwise, therefore not cheap at all.
The only symptom I had was shuddering (wheel shake) under medium to heavy braking pressure anywhere above 40 mph or so, before and after new pads & rotors.
I went ahead and had them replace the entire lower control arm assy on both sides because it is actually less total money than paying for ball joints and bushings and MASSIVE labor charges. It cost me just over $300.00 out the door. Separately, neither the rear bushings nor the ball joints are a piece of cake laborwise, therefore not cheap at all.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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