[4535 Bullitt]

As you can see by the picture the numbers on the shift ball in my Bullitt mustang have rubbed off. They appear to have been engraved in rather than printed on the ball. My question is how can I restore this to factory condition? Can it be done? I have looked at buying a replacement, but it was $150 from CJ pony parts, a bit too steep in my opinion. I also want a better shifter with tighter and more confident throws, so I am starting to see the Hurst shifter as my next option.

 

[electrotyper]

Since the numbers are engraved in below the surface of the ball, I would just get a small bottle of Testors model paint (enamel), and a fine tipped paint brush. You can paint in the numbers, and gently wipe any excess off of the raised surface with a paper towel while still wet. Or use a small amount of thinner on a rag if it dries. Be sure to check on an inconspicuous spot to make sure the thinner won't damage the finish before you start.

 

[jlee910]

Do not throw a Hurst in your Bullitt. Every Hurst S197 I've driven rattled and was a bear to shift, it'd even lockout at times. I'd only look into a Barton or MGW after having driven several and due to the semi-remote shifter location. I have a Barton now, and it's hands down the best thing I've done to the car. Smooth, solid, quieter than stock, and looks fantastic. Yes, it's a little pricey, but you absolutely get what you pay for. I let a local guy drive my GT, and he is now taking off his Hurst and ordering a Barton.

 

[4535 Bullitt]

Do not throw a Hurst in your Bullitt. Every Hurst S197 I've driven rattled and was a bear to shift, it'd even lockout at times. I'd only look into a Barton or MGW after having driven several and due to the semi-remote shifter location. I have a Barton now, and it's hands down the best thing I've done to the car. Smooth, solid, quieter than stock, and looks fantastic. Yes, it's a little pricey, but you absolutely get what you pay for. I let a local guy drive my GT, and he is now taking off his Hurst and ordering a Barton.

Yeah the problem with the Barton and the MGW is that their knob's will not fit with the Bullitt's shift bezel and I will have to get a GT's shift bezel, which is a drawback, because I really like the trim piece around the Bullitt's bezel. My other option is to stick with the stock knob, which I am not as crazy about. I have definitely looked into the MGW. The Barton is a little pricey for me. I am still set on the Hurst though. I know a local guy, who swears by his and I have heard good and bad about all of them. I am still on the fence though money is tight and I am not sure I could justify dropping over $250 for a shifter.

 

[4535 Bullitt]

Since the numbers are engraved in below the surface of the ball, I would just get a small bottle of Testors model paint (enamel), and a fine tipped paint brush. You can paint in the numbers, and gently wipe any excess off of the raised surface with a paper towel while still wet. Or use a small amount of thinner on a rag if it dries. Be sure to check on an inconspicuous spot to make sure the thinner won't damage the finish before you start.

Good idea. I swear I had some of that paint laying around the house, but I cannot find it. The nearest hobby shop is 45 minutes away...

 

[MustangLife]

Not trying to pursued you either way just want you to have up front opinions.

I had a hurst short throw shifter in a one of my S197 mustangs and loved it. I was a lot younger when I had it and put it through a good beating at the drag strip almost once a week. Loved the feeling and how short the shits were. It held up great for about 20-25,000 miles and then like someone stated it started to rattle and then shortly after that started getting loose and wobbly in shifting.

I now have another S197 mustang and am considering putting one in as I just don't care for the stock shifter and well ironically the stock shifter is rattling.

 

[electrotyper]

Good idea. I swear I had some of that paint laying around the house, but I cannot find it. The nearest hobby shop is 45 minutes away...

If a Home Depot or Lowes is around you can purchase a can of regular black enamel to use... same thing. Even a Walmart would have it in the Home Accessories department, or A drugstore where they sell car models...
dance.gifAND... There's always Ebay... shipped to your house!

 

[KWA302]

I agree with just refilling it in with paint, I use to do it on engraved lettering and numbers etc, and used black model paint and a small amount of clear epoxy for a super hard finish. Because the epoxy thickens the paint up, you can wipe away the excess without worrying about absorbing the paint out of the engraving. Just use paint without any thinner and only a small amount of epoxy to act as a hardner. If you decide to make a project out of it, you can use "Stripper" to remove all of the paint in the engraving, but if the ball is clear coated, it will remove that too. I opted for a nice polished ball with black paint for the numbers. but thats just me, if i see a spot of geese on my wall, ill find a reason to make a project out of it that will take up a few hours sFun_grampa.gif

 

[electrotyper]

... if i see a spot of geese on my wall, ill find a reason to make a project out of it that will take up a few hours sFun_grampa.gif

+1
Can you say...OCD ?high5.gif

 

[wjbertrand]

Yeah the problem with the Barton and the MGW is that their knob's will not fit with the Bullitt's shift bezel and I will have to get a GT's shift bezel, which is a drawback, because I really like the trim piece around the Bullitt's bezel. My other option is to stick with the stock knob, which I am not as crazy about. I have definitely looked into the MGW. The Barton is a little pricey for me. I am still set on the Hurst though. I know a local guy, who swears by his and I have heard good and bad about all of them. I am still on the fence though money is tight and I am not sure I could justify dropping over $250 for a shifter.

Why would the bezel, the boot for that matter, make any difference to the shifter? With the MGW I know you can get 12mm X 1.25 or 12mm x 1.75 threaded handles so you should be able to keep your original knob or change it to almost anything else.