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they say the CAI is worth 10-20 HP on the early S197's ; and in combination with the LT headers and cams I'd say the intake is definitely worth doing to help the whole system breath

but I am not talking about the intake manifold; pretty sure the gains there are smaller; you might want to look at the FRPP intake, since you are moving everything toward high RPM horsepower anyway (I'm pretty sure the FRPP intake sacrifices some low end torque for high end HP, but you already did that with the cams so they'd probably work well together)
10-20 hp with no tune? Must be the worst airbox design ever. 25 years ago K&N advertised a 25 horse gain with a drop in filter. Now they claim good for the environment since you don’t throw them away.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Here’s a calculator. What was the original gear? As for the cai, it’s 98.3% eye candy. I’m not sure how restrictive the stock air box is in the ‘06, but my ‘95 showed zero gain from a CAI. It looked cooler though.

Original gear was stock. I will check out the calculator...thanks.

As far as cool factor, I have a functional Shaker hood scoop...and I will never go away from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
they say the CAI is worth 10-20 HP on the early S197's ; and in combination with the LT headers and cams I'd say the intake is definitely worth doing to help the whole system breath

but I am not talking about the intake manifold; pretty sure the gains there are smaller; you might want to look at the FRPP intake, since you are moving everything toward high RPM horsepower anyway (I'm pretty sure the FRPP intake sacrifices some low end torque for high end HP, but you already did that with the cams so they'd probably work well together)
I have to keep my stock intake manifold, I have a big hole in my hood for my Shaker scoop. LOL
 

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ha, good point . . . you might want to check out the "super shaker" intake, I am not sure if they are still available, but it makes the shaker scoop into a functional CAI, if you don't already have that

EDIT: this was my 10,000th post! But I didn't hear any bells and whstles, and no big prize or anything . . . oh well, maybe at 100,000 ??? :)
 

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10-20 hp with no tune? Must be the worst airbox design ever. 25 years ago K&N advertised a 25 horse gain with a drop in filter. Now they claim good for the environment since you don’t throw them away.
ha ha, yeah I was trying to give a "realistic estimate" not a "marketing claim" LOL
and yeah most of them require a tune, so the intake and the tune go together, and it is practically impossible to distinguish where the gains come from, and pointless
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I don’t know what the stock gear is.
According to my secret source (Google.....shhhhhhh)

What are the stock gears in a 2006 Mustang GT?
For 2006 I believe autos are 3.31 and manuals are 3.55. At some point they made 3.55 an option for the manuals and made 3.31 standard for every car.



I have a manual and I actually just looked at the gear that was removed, it is stamped 355.
 

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I have to keep my stock intake manifold, I have a big hole in my hood for my Shaker scoop. LOL
Just delete the charge motion control valves and have the tune adjusted accordingly. If you do underdrive pulleys at the same time, you'll see an extra ~15rwhp with torque gains across the board. Another easy mod you can do is to port the stock throttle body.
Most of the HP gain from a CAI/tune combo comes from the tune, but a larger diameter intake tube combined with a big Powerstack cone filter will support higher HP levels as you add more mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just delete the charge motion control valves and have the tune adjusted accordingly. If you do underdrive pulleys at the same time, you'll see an extra ~15rwhp with torque gains across the board. Another easy mod you can do is to port the stock throttle body.
Most of the HP gain from a CAI/tune combo comes from the tune, but a larger diameter intake tube combined with a big Powerstack cone filter will support higher HP levels as you add more mods.
Thanks for the input but since I want to keep the car as close to stock as possible, I think this is a far as I am going to go:
  1. Shaker Hood Scoop
  2. Ford Performance Cams
  3. 3.73 gear
  4. L/T header with catted H pipe
  5. BBK CAI.........
All with a custom tune and start running only high octane gas and whatever I get with respect to RWHP and TORQUE, I just live with.

Well...if an under drive pulley is an easy, relatively affordable mod and worth the results, maybe that too. (LOL..does it ever end).
 

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Well...if an under drive pulley is an easy, relatively affordable mod and worth the results, maybe that too. (LOL..does it ever end).
yep, one of the easiest and cheapest, I think they have the highest bang/buck ratio of any mod going . . . .the only hard part is getting that crank bolt out! well, torquing down the new one isn't the easiest thing either . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So I got my cams and gear installed and now I think I am going with long-tube headers catted H-pipe, underdrive pulley system and CAI.

Looking for input on American Racing 1 5/8 with catted H-pipe.

American Racing vs Kooks? 1 5/8 vs 1 3/4, any noticeable difference for an NA car? Any input is appreciated.
 

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yep, one of the easiest and cheapest, I think they have the highest bang/buck ratio of any mod going . . . .the only hard part is getting that crank bolt out! well, torquing down the new one isn't the easiest thing either . . .
It’s just the opposite for the older models as probably one of the worst bangs for bucks. Since the stock alternators can’t handle the lower speed (it’s only 65 amps) people end up buying $200+ alternators just so they can have their 3-5 horse gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
It’s just the opposite for the older models as probably one of the worst bangs for bucks. Since the stock alternators can’t handle the lower speed (it’s only 65 amps) people end up buying $200+ alternators just so they can have their 3-5 horse gain.
Does my 2006 qualify as an older model? Are you saying $500 parts and labor is NOT money well spent?

Also, care to opine on this brand of headers - American Racing? I think I am Ok with 1 5/8, right?
 

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I am pretty sure that the problems with the underdrive pulleys were on the pre-2005 cars; so no your 2006 would be a "newer model"

However it might be a bit of a gray area because the early S197's had weak alternators and I'm not sure when they were upgraded or if the issue that 90lx is talking about applies to S197 at all. (S197 was 2005-2014; so 2005-2006 is an "early S197" and 2010-2014 would be "late S197")

My 2010 has the later Denso alternator, and I have Steeda underdrive pulleys, and I have never had any problem with charging or overheating or anything that might relate to the underdrive pulleys. If I sat in stop-and-go traffic for long periods of time in extreme heat with the A/C on and had a huge stereo amp running full blast at the same time, I might have had a problem, but I have never done that so I don't know.

I think Bullit95 has an early S197 car with the original alternator and underdrive pulleys and has never had a problem . . . but he can confirm.

You should probably have the alternator on your "upgrade it when it fails" list regardless.
 

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Does my 2006 qualify as an older model? Are you saying $500 parts and labor is NOT money well spent?

Also, care to opine on this brand of headers - American Racing? I think I am Ok with 1 5/8, right?
Well, I was going to say no, yours is probably in the clear. However, when I was doing a quick “google” to see how many amps yours put out I stumbled onto a post from @JBert on another forum stating how crappy the ‘05-‘09 alternators are. I’m not sure how many amps yours makes, but the Mustangs with under drive pulleys and 75 amp alternators would have dim dash & headlights and occasional charging problems. On top of all that their car would still be “slow” because parasitic loss isn’t as big a deal as the vendors like to portray. The ‘90 model I had came with em so I can’t give a before and after, but the after was nothing to write home about other than the dim lights.
$500 for exhaust & pulleys bought and installed? If so that’s not bad. I just paid a guy $200 just in labor to weld on two mufflers and two cats.
J’s post
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
No, it is actually $290 for the Steeda pulley and another $230 labor for the install...so $520 just for that.

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on these American Racing headers with catted H-pipe and JLT CAI and a re-tune. That is a significant spend there on that that stuff so I was thinking off simply omitting the UDP and saving myself the $520. What do you guys think?

Also, nobody is giving their opinion on these American Racing headers.

Last question - are these street legal in Virginia since they have a catted H-pipe?

American Racing Headers 1-5/8-Inch Long Tube Headers with Catted H-Pipe(05-10 GT)
 

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I've had Steeda underdrive pulleys on my car for the last seven years with zero problems. My alternator is a remanufactured Motorcraft unit i.e. stock. The 8-10hp gain from the UDPs is definitely worth the money spent.
American Racing full length headers are expensive but they're excellent quality. A 4.6 3V with bolt ons, stock intake manifold, and cams will invariably have a double hump torque curve with peaks at 4300rpm and 5100rpm. A 1-5/8" primary tube diameter enhances the 4300rpm torque peak, whereas a 1-3/4" primary tube diameter enhances the 5100rpm torque peak. If you swap in a Ford Performance intake manifold, the 4300rpm torque peak is flattened and you're left with peak torque at 5100rpm.
The JLT 3 CAI is an excellent choice and will support other N/A mods to beyond 350rwhp without being restrictive. It also makes an intoxicating throaty induction roar when you mash the gas pedal.
 

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. . . I stumbled onto a post from @JBert on another forum stating how crappy the ‘05-‘09 alternators are. I’m not sure how many amps yours makes, but the Mustangs with under drive pulleys and 75 amp alternators would have dim dash & headlights and occasional charging problems. . . .
ha! yep, that would be me . . . . but I was only repeating what I had read, so I decided to add a disclaimer in my signature
;)

but I do consider Department of Boost (Jason) to be a reliable source

and repeating more of what I have read: Kooks headers are supposed to be some of the best, not sure if that was already mentioned; and their "green cats" are supposedly about the best for passing emissions inspection.

Regarding the catted mid pipe: as I understand it, technically, ANY modification to the original catalytic converters is illegal per federal law, and most local regulations. But you can get away with it, if it passes the ODBII test in most states; as long as they don't do a visual inspection. Not sure about Virginia, but guessing it is similar to Massachusetts, if you can get the rear O2 sensors to read correctly and they don't do a visual, you might squeak through.
 
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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks Bullitt95 and JBert, and 90lxwhite, I appreciate the input. I now have a better understanding of the difference between the two diameter offerings for the headers. Yes, I am doing mods to make the car go faster but I was really chasing the sound of the cams. My last Mustang had aftermarket cams and L/T headers and I miss that. I believe the UDPs result with a HP gain, but for $520, not worth it to me at this point.

I am awaiting a call back from the Service Advisor buddy of mine that works at the local Ford dealership with respect to State Inspections. With cams and headers, they won't have to put it on a lift to know the original exhaust has been modified, right? This dealership did pass my last Mustang each year I had it, but they are under new management and I just want to hear what he has to say.

So my car dyno'd at 284.09 MAX HP and 300.21 Max Torque with my new Ford Performance Aftermarket Cams. I am having L/T headers, a new catted H-Pipe, and JLT CAI installed next month. Does anyone care to throw out what my numbers might be after a new tune?

Also, just wondering about my Shaker Hood Scoop. So as I am driving down the road at X MPH, additional fresh cold air is fed to my stock air box and once the CAI is installed, to the area which will contain the new air filter.

When the car is dyno'd, there were be no additional air flowing through this Shaker Hood Scoop while car is being tuned but there will be air flowing through when I drive the car afterwards.

When I bought the Shaker Hood, I realized it was a mostly cosmetic mod, but for your technical guys, I am wondering about the air flow or lack thereof during the tuning process. Is that amount of air inconsequential to the tune?
 

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What kind of dyno was that? dyno results are very variable, those numbers sound maybe a little low, was it a Mustang dyno?

The ram-air affect with the shaker hood theoretically might add a little more air flow and a little HP, but it should be OK tune-wise because the EFI system will automatically adjust for the air that is coming in, as long as it has good readings on how much air is coming in. The tune is important with the CAI to "recalibrate" the MAF sensor for the larger intake tube.

I'm guessing you might pick up another 20 HP with the CAI and tune.
 
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