Possible ground wire issue...dirty connection?
Slow turnover after tranny rebuild
1996 with a 1998 engine/tranny. Shift 1/2 accumulator lower spring broke. I pulled the tranny, replaced all seals and clutch packs, new Shift 1/2 accumulator spring/piston, new reverse servo. Put the tranny back on the block, making sure the torque converter was properly seated (end of shaft is 1/8" lower than a straight edge held across the tranny case edges).
Engine can be turned by hand, estimating the torque to be around 80 ft lbs to move it. Compression is solid. When I try and start it, you can hear it turning very slowly (probably moves about 15 degrees each key turn). Pulled the spark plugs, now it turns about 90 degrees each key turn. But either way, clearly not fast enough to actually start.
Ideas on what could cause this? Possible misalignment within the tranny components?
Engine can be turned by hand, estimating the torque to be around 80 ft lbs to move it. Compression is solid. When I try and start it, you can hear it turning very slowly (probably moves about 15 degrees each key turn). Pulled the spark plugs, now it turns about 90 degrees each key turn. But either way, clearly not fast enough to actually start.
Ideas on what could cause this? Possible misalignment within the tranny components?
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Update #1
I ended up pulling the tranny and double checking everything. Found one set of clutch plates where the gear hadn't dropped into the final clutch plate, although I don't believe it was the cause of my problem. I'v'e now hooked everything back up. When I hooked up the battery, I could hear a relay clicking (sounded like it was coming from under the air intake on the passenger side). I realized I must have a short somewhere, so I removed neg battery connection again, and checked the starter. The starter negative wire had moved slightly and was touching the solenoid wire post. I fixed that, hooked everything back up, and now I get nothing when I turn the key. I'm guessing I may have fried something? I found a blown EEC fuse (20 AMP) and replaced that, and also tried a different starter relay. I hear the fuel pump engage just fine, but when I turn the key there is nothing (other than a registered voltage drop on the battery indicator on the dash). Possibly a problem with the EEC itself? I've also replaced battery cables and double-checked ground connections.
Update #1:
Found another blown fuse (Ignition switch). Replaced that and verified the battery cable/starter connections and ground-to-fuse-box connection. Sounds like there's mechanical resistance on the crank, yet I can turn the engine over by hand without any issue.
I ended up pulling the tranny and double checking everything. Found one set of clutch plates where the gear hadn't dropped into the final clutch plate, although I don't believe it was the cause of my problem. I'v'e now hooked everything back up. When I hooked up the battery, I could hear a relay clicking (sounded like it was coming from under the air intake on the passenger side). I realized I must have a short somewhere, so I removed neg battery connection again, and checked the starter. The starter negative wire had moved slightly and was touching the solenoid wire post. I fixed that, hooked everything back up, and now I get nothing when I turn the key. I'm guessing I may have fried something? I found a blown EEC fuse (20 AMP) and replaced that, and also tried a different starter relay. I hear the fuel pump engage just fine, but when I turn the key there is nothing (other than a registered voltage drop on the battery indicator on the dash). Possibly a problem with the EEC itself? I've also replaced battery cables and double-checked ground connections.
Update #1:
Found another blown fuse (Ignition switch). Replaced that and verified the battery cable/starter connections and ground-to-fuse-box connection. Sounds like there's mechanical resistance on the crank, yet I can turn the engine over by hand without any issue.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
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