Solved: 1965 Mustang Automatic-Can’t shift from park

2337 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by chumpoox, Sep 20, 2021

chumpoox

Discussion Starter · Sep 18, 2021

Hello,

I took my t-handle off to install a new shift cover retaining plate.
All is installed.
But now I can’t change gears and the car is stuck in Park.
I watched the CJPony video on putting the black shifter button on and it seems ok.
But the metal ball on the top of the t-bar doesn’t flick the way it does in their video.

When I push the button there is no press.

What did I break?
Here are some photos.
Thanks for your help.

Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel White Motor vehicle

Hand Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Gear shift Motor vehicle Automotive design Steering wheel Automotive tire

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Fixture Bumper Automotive exterior

Water Automotive tire Fluid Bumper Vehicle door

See less See more

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

crjackson

· #2 · Sep 18, 2021

Welcome and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules if you haven’t already.
We encourage you to complete your Account Settings.
Do you need help posting? Please read this FAQ.

We’re happy you have chosen to be a part of our community.

See less See more

Save

chumpoox

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 18, 2021

crjackson said:
Welcome and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules if you haven’t already.
We encourage you to complete your Account Settings.
Do you need help posting? Please read this FAQ.

We’re happy you have chosen to be a part of our community.

I think I got everything.
Thanks for redoing the photos to thumbnail.

I think the cable they talk about in step 5 is the problem. I’ll try and tighten it.

Mustang Automatic Shift Lever (1965-1968) Installation Instructions

Find out how to install an Automatic Shift Lever into your 1965-1968 Mustang at CJ Pony Parts. Shop a huge selection of parts.

www.cjponyparts.com

Unless you all think I have a different problem?

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

crjackson

· #4 · Sep 18, 2021

I think Grimbrand, Cobrajet67, or Yadkin can give you much better advice than I can. One or all will chime in shortly.

Save

chumpoox

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 18, 2021

crjackson said:
I think Grimbrand, Cobrajet67, or Yadkin can give you much better advice than I can. One or all will chime in shortly.

Any help is appreciated.

Save

Grimbrand

· #6 · Sep 18, 2021

Welcome to AFM, Chumpoox!

As I'm sure you can see, it's all pretty simple. The little 'silver knob' atop your shift lever moves to the right, and that stretches the cable, raising the selector plate out of the detent plate's teeth, letting you move the lever back and forth. When the T-handle is on top, its plastic sliding button mechanism just pushes against the silver knob to do the same thing your hand does, but more comfortably.

This mechanism usually doesn't need adjusting, but sometimes I've seen gunk or corrosion make it hard to move the detent selector. I think to free it up I'd use a penetrating oil, or lock lubricant. Something like 3-in-1's "dry Lubricant" spray might be a good choice too, because it'll help free up the cable and mechanism, and then not leave an oily mess to attract dust and cause trouble later. It should move smoothly and freely when done.

The plastic button on your shifter should also move freely in the handle before you put it on the shift lever, so you can test that pretty easily.

Lastly, and I know this is pretty obvious, but if the shift lever is in a bind, it'll put the little plates in a bind too; the selector plate that has to come up to clear the detent plate has plenty of friction to keep from being able to push the button on top. One thing that might aggravate that is the shift lever bushing. It's a little plastic sleeve that the shift lever rides on. If it's all worn out, and the shift lever can twist, it might be causing enough friction to trap the selector plate in the detent plate's teeth.

Thankfully, the whole mechanism is really pretty straightforward and obvious once you see how it works. You've got this.

Best wishes!

See less See more

Save

chumpoox

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 18, 2021

Grimbrand said:
Welcome to AFM, Chumpoox!

As I'm sure you can see, it's all pretty simple. The little 'silver knob' atop your shift lever moves to the right, and that stretches the cable, raising the selector plate out of the detent plate's teeth, letting you move the lever back and forth. When the T-handle is on top, its plastic sliding button mechanism just pushes against the silver knob to do the same thing your hand does, but more comfortably.

This mechanism usually doesn't need adjusting, but sometimes I've seen gunk or corrosion make it hard to move the detent selector. I think to free it up I'd use a penetrating oil, or lock lubricant. Something like 3-in-1's "dry Lubricant" spray might be a good choice too, because it'll help free up the cable and mechanism, and then not leave an oily mess to attract dust and cause trouble later. It should move smoothly and freely when done.

The plastic button on your shifter should also move freely in the handle before you put it on the shift lever, so you can test that pretty easily.

Lastly, and I know this is pretty obvious, but if the shift lever is in a bind, it'll put the little plates in a bind too; the selector plate that has to come up to clear the detent plate has plenty of friction to keep from being able to push the button on top. One thing that might aggravate that is the shift lever bushing. It's a little plastic sleeve that the shift lever rides on. If it's all worn out, and the shift lever can twist, it might be causing enough friction to trap the selector plate in the detent plate's teeth.

Thankfully, the whole mechanism is really pretty straightforward and obvious once you see how it works. You've got this.

Best wishes!

Thanks for the thoughts.
All was working well before I took the t-handle off. So I figure it’s the cable that needs to be adjusted. The bushings look great.
I’ll check tomorrow my theory and grease things up as suggested.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

Grimbrand

· #8 · Sep 19, 2021

I wonder if there's just some fibers jammed up in there making it not work properly?

Save

chumpoox

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 20, 2021

It was the set screw at the underside of the thing on the bottom right of the 4th photo.
A small flat head screw driver fixed it.
So the flat head didn’t slip out I put some parafilm in its tip.
My son held the bolt in place with a wrench and I tightened it from the underside of the car.
You just have to remove the black plastic thing there from the underside.
If you have a folding socket wrench you can do it yourself otherwise you need someone to hold the nut.
You can also take everything out but you don’t need to.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month