Just to be sure, check the fuel pump cutoff switch in the trunk to make sure it didn't trip for any reason.
now by doing that test, im testing the ground side of the control circuit of the fuel pump relay, correct?meangreen92 said:A disconnected low oil level switch will not cause a no start. (Ask me why I'm so sure).
You can try taking the EEC diagnostic plug under the hood, and hold it so that the terminals are facing you. Now turn it so that the longer side is on the bottom. It should look like a house with the pent side facing up. Find the far right terminal (it would be downstairs). Connect that terminal to a good ground and turn the key to run. The fuel pump should run continuously.
You could also try testing the EEC relay too.
Have you changed out the starter solenoid, or had those wires off?
Also check your fusible links.
You might have an EEC related problem. You are concentrating on the FP relay and I would check the EEC Power relay instead. Check it the same way you did the FP relay at the beginning. You might want to also check the EEC ground wire near the battery. If your car has both relays in the engine compartment relay box, I would check the small diode at the opposite end of the box from the FP relay location, IGN goes through this diode to the EEC relay. BTW, could you do a codes scan KOEO?loljason91notch said:ok, so im trying to get my car running, (91 coupe, auto). when i turn the key on, the fuel pump isnt kicking on. i checked the fuses, theyre fine. i got a wiring diagram and busted out the multimeter, and im getting voltage to the relay on both hot wires. ok great. but when i turn the key on i dont get voltage out of the green/yellow wire. if i run a jumper wire across the relay, the pump kicks on, so its a bad relay, too easy... right? well i got a new relay, and it did the same thing, no change. maybe that relay is bad too? so i got ANOTHER one, no change. still, if i jump the relay the pump kicks on. if i have a jumper wire across it, the pump kicks on and stays on, and when i go to start it it seems like it starts but when i let off the key it dies instantly, although the pump is still on. so it almost acts as if the computer is shutting it off... which brings me to the next possible scenario. my low oil level sensor is bad, i know for a fact. (the wire came out of it) would this cause a no start? according to every wiring diagram ive looked at, it is no where near the fuel pump circuit, but will the computer not allow the engine to run if this is bad? please help!!!!
The 3 second priming is independent from the TFI. The reason why you activate the FP with the distributor is that the ECM is seeing the engine "cranking" by exercising the stator signal when you move the dist. left to right and activates the FP relay. This should be a good way to check the ground signal that goest to the FP relay like LXR4Ti mention.LXR4Ti said:check the ground signal coming from the ecm, if your not getting a signal for 3 seconds when you hit the key its probally the tfi on the bottom of the distributor, it controls the fuel pump operation through the ecm.(if no one believes me loosen your distributor,turn the key to the on position and crank the distributor left to right, the fuel pump will keep kicking off and on, just dont start the car during the test) the eec test harness has a wire in it that comes directly fom the ecm for the fuel pump you can test it fom there(remember that the ecm f/p signal is a GROUND signal.
This is correct..........Joel5.0 said:The 3 second priming is independent from the TFI. The reason why you activate the FP with the distributor is that the ECM is seeing the engine "cranking" by exercising the stator signal when you move the dist. left to right and activates the FP relay. This should be a good way to check the ground signal that goest to the FP relay like LXR4Ti mention.