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Discussion Starter #1
OK. sunday i finished installing a set of southside machine lower control arms, removed the quads and reinstalled stock springs with one coil cut off. to my surprise the car sits like its a 4x4 truck wtf.. well, today i found out wft is going on. the ssm lca are actually two peice that i dont have, the peice the im missing is bolted to axle and lower, which sets your pinion angle, it also lowers your spring.

sunday after the install i took the mustang out for a test drive. tried a little smokey and the rear end hopped like a horse on steroid and the car was very loose in the ass end.

I guess i want to know is if anyone has made/fabricated such brackets to add on to southsides since they've gone under.
 

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I think you might think about some better arms, because those SSM's really reduce your ground clearance. Go over a bump and they'd scrape the ground.
But to answer your question, I haven't heard of anyone making a bracket for those SSM's. The wheel hop is because the quads are gone, a cut coil, and that missing bracket all combining to have no control over the axle vibration. If you can't find a bracket, you might have to change arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah, im starting to lean towards new ones. its a shame i spent money on these incomplete lowers. whats a good brand. I have a set of drag launch springs that really kill ride quality but bite great at the track. will they work fine with aftermarket lowers or make ride even worse.
 

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The previous owner of the Southsides cut those brackets off to remove them from his car, I did the same thing when I sold my 89GT and put the stock lowers arms back, a good welder should be able to fabricate some for you for pretty cheap. You need them to be able to rotate the whole 8.8 assembly to set your pinion angle correctly then weld them into place! If you can get this done in your area I'd do it those bars are effective if installed correctly, I was pulling 1.58 60 ft times launching at 5K with a 150 shot of juice and slicks!:bigthumbsup
And Eagle to help with the ground clearance I cut the rear sway bar mounting piece off both sides, that's the part of the bar that hangs down lowest, no need for the rear sway on a Drag Car, haha!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks Brutal Metal, I got till june 5th to come up with something. its ford nationals in carlisle and friday im at the track (southmountain) now called quarter-aces. ill take some measurements and make up two brackets out of a c-channel and see how that works, ill make three deferent holes for adjustability.
 

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You Defin itely want to get that pinion angle correct, I wouldn't drive it hard til it's within spec, at the very least you could damage a U-joint. I cant see pics of your setup but I'm pretty sure your gonna need 4 brackets not 2, 1 for both corners of each bar. Just so I'm sure You ARE talking about their lift bars right? with the grease fittings on the bottom? They replace the stock lower control arms?
 

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An experienced fabricator could easily make you a set. I have the lift bars on my 82 GT and they actually use 4 plates for the brackets. One for each side of each bar. Get this, when I bought my car the previous owner had installed the bars but had not welded or bolted the plates in place. He couldnt figure out why the car would jump to the side when you punched it, and the other way when you let off. He thought it was something in the front end! Any ways youll love the bars when you get them installed correctly. :bigthumbsup
 

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Yup their effective but Squeaky MOFO'S keep those grease fittings lubed monthly! Get a gun applicator at the parts store!
 

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You could just pick up a set of the Lakewood Traction/Lift bars. They cost around $200 unless you can find used ones, but they're well worth it, especially if you get the two-position adjustable ones. I have a set on my car; it runs low 13's on little 245/40R17 street tires with 3.73 gears and i can barely break traction in second gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
wow, thanks for the responces. heres an update,,, today i looked in jegs catalog and found the jegster bars which are identical to what i have (minus the 4 plates), i called them up and asked to order just the plates, responce at first was that they cant separated and dont have a part # for plates only, after a few minutes on hold Jeff came back and said they'd make an exception and plates where ordered at $40 w/shipping... was I pleased:bigthumbsup
so now im waiting on the plates, will have to buy 2 more bolts/lock nuts and under the car i go again... now about the pinion angle, how do i adjust and where do i adjust. i have a gauge and will measure the driveshaft angle (correct) im thinking 2-3 positive???:headscratch:
 

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wow, thanks for the responces. heres an update,,, today i looked in jegs catalog and found the jegster bars which are identical to what i have (minus the 4 plates), i called them up and asked to order just the plates, responce at first was that they cant separated and dont have a part # for plates only, after a few minutes on hold Jeff came back and said they'd make an exception and plates where ordered at $40 w/shipping... was I pleased:bigthumbsup
so now im waiting on the plates, will have to buy 2 more bolts/lock nuts and under the car i go again... now about the pinion angle, how do i adjust and where do i adjust. i have a gauge and will measure the driveshaft angle (correct) im thinking 2-3 positive???:headscratch:
COOL sounds like a hook up, much easier than finding a fabricator, bringing your car to him to make measurements then machining the brackets! Nice!!
The most important thing to consider when setting pinion angle is to ensure that when under load the driveshaft will be in line with the pinion, this usually requires an intial setting of Negative 2-4 degrees so that the pinion aims slightly to the ground, then when you launch the angle lifts and straightens!! Use a pinion angle gauge, I used to put the magnet part on the differential where the driveshaft bolts up! This is a two person job, one to hold the Axle at the correct angle and a welder to tack the brackets in place before fully welding them! Also the car needs to be loaded, not with the tires free standing on an air lift, a drive on lift is ideal,or you could set the angle on the ground, tack weld the brackets then put it on a lift to finish the welds!:bigthumbsup
 

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Obviously an old thread, but in case anyone stumbles on it like I did... you can get a rebuild kit from UMI that has new plates as well as hardware and bushings. I think mine was about $60

Matt
 
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