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Discussion Starter #1
I was browsing on the Mustang Source Forum & read disturbing plug removal posts that state the plugs break upon removal. Great ! I don't want to spend $ 350 + to a Ford tech who may or may not care about my car. I have an '06 GT with 12 K on the clock. Anyone know the torque setting for removal/install & the proper engine temp ( warm or cold) ? I read champions have a one-piece plug at about $16. I want those things out and replaced before I rack up too many miles.

Do I spray the outside with carb cleaner to help loosen them. I heard they "pop", which sound to this stress freak like breakage.
 

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WHAT?! Now I'm interested. Is this true? I am assuming you are reffering to the stock plugs being removed and replaced. Also to go with this an information about platinum plugs burning too hot and burning holes? A tech told me this about my old explorer. I'm thinking he just wanted to sell me HIS spark plugs and not install mine. Wow great topic.
 

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I hear the techs will charge you extra if they break them off. There supposedly is a tool to remove the broken plugs that cost around $250. Ford allegedly will not cover this defect nor will the dealerships. Apparently there is no recourse except to make a sound like a wallet. I wonder what else in the way of surprises we have to look forward to.
 

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i believe the breakage is from the metal below the threads getting seized to the head and not the actual threads. i think if you remove the plugs early and put some anti sieze just below the threads the plugs you should be fine. also removing them warm should help ease removal because of heat expanding the metal.
 

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Wouldn't the heat expand the metal in the plug as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I read on the other forum both " do it cold" & "do it warm" . It's not the threads themselves that are bad, they get carbon build up and snap when you try to remove them. Still need torque setting as well.
 

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I borrowed this info from another forum but I follow the advice and have no issues.

The threads aren't the problem, its the smooth shank that goes in the head below the threads. But always put anti-seize on the threads of sparkplugs in aluminum heads.

Pull and clean every 10k or so and you'll never have a problem or follow the below directions very carefully and LISTEN while you pull the plugs if they make a lot of noise give them some more penetrating lube.

1. Get the motor to operating temp
2. Let the engine cool till it is comfortable to work on.
3. Pull the coil packs
4. Squirt a little penetrant in each hole
5. Loosen each spark plug aprox 1 turn
6. Squirt more penetrant in each hole allowing the penetrant to soak for a few minutes.
7. You should now be able to remove the plugs, take it easy, Ford says if it takes more than 35ft-lbs to apply more penetrant. 35ft-lbs is the point that the plug can seperate, if it feels tight turn it back in a little and then continue loosening. Also, listen to the plugs, if they are making a ton of noise then they have carbon buildup that is preventing them from coming out easily.
 

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I borrowed this info from another forum but I follow the advice and have no issues.

The threads aren't the problem, its the smooth shank that goes in the head below the threads. But always put anti-seize on the threads of sparkplugs in aluminum heads.

Pull and clean every 10k or so and you'll never have a problem or follow the below directions very carefully and LISTEN while you pull the plugs if they make a lot of noise give them some more penetrating lube.

1. Get the motor to operating temp
2. Let the engine cool till it is comfortable to work on.
3. Pull the coil packs
4. Squirt a little penetrant in each hole
5. Loosen each spark plug aprox 1 turn
6. Squirt more penetrant in each hole allowing the penetrant to soak for a few minutes.
7. You should now be able to remove the plugs, take it easy, Ford says if it takes more than 35ft-lbs to apply more penetrant. 35ft-lbs is the point that the plug can seperate, if it feels tight turn it back in a little and then continue loosening. Also, listen to the plugs, if they are making a ton of noise then they have carbon buildup that is preventing them from coming out easily.
Didn't know about the 35 lb-ft limit. Guess I'll set my torque wrench to 30 lbs to be safe. Although, I've had my plugs out 7-8 times (HT1s) and have never had a problem.
 

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Any "best" spark plug to replace with?
 

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Just do an eight to a quarter turn out per 5-10 minutes with Aerokroil as the lubricant giving it time to wick down the threads and elimnate resitance from the gunk build up. Do it with engine warm. Install with engine cold. Hope this info is useful. :)

Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Apply penetrating oil (AeroKroil or equivalent) and fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits. A minimum period of 5 to 10 minutes of soak time is required. The penetrating oil will wick down to the ground electrode shield in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.


CAUTION EXCESSIVE PENETRANT, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.

TSB 06-15-2

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone. I'll stay away from the energy drinks & try to take my time. At 12K, I don't foresee problems.
 

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i have the champions and they have preformed excellent, good piece of mind with the one-piece plug :yup:
 
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