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:madas:I read an article this week by Click and Clack, the tappet brothers in the Buffalo newspaper, which stated that the 4.6 and 5.4 engines have a problem with the spark plugs braking off inside the engine after 25,000 to 30,000 miles? sometimes sooner? because of the crud that builds up on the extended part of the plug, beyond the threaded part of the plug? this engine is supposed to have a 100,000 mile plug service life? this is a Ford design defect, but the dealers are charging the public outrageous fee's to fix this problem, as they have to drill out the stuck part of the plugs? Why didn't ford cast this head to acccept a standard plug? This really #%!#@ me off.. the article says it could be thousands to fix if all of the plugs are stuck or broken off? Why is this not a recall item? why doesn't ford pick up the bill for this problem? This is not a better Idea! and this may be our last ford too, if this is how thery care for their customers. We shelled out all our dough for this mustang, and this makes me sick. This is what is wrong with this country! no one wants to accept responibility for their actions. This is a shame ford! Has anyone had this problem so far? I'd like to hear about it, as ford would like this hushed up. even the local dealers here don't want to talk about it, they just reccomend doing plugs every 10,000 to 60,000 miles, but even then, it's your problem if the plug brakes off? Where is my bail out? This really hurts after all the money I put into this car. What say you guys?:madas:
 
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There are countless threads on this, steps that can be taken to reduce this possibility and tools to pull any broken plugs left in the cylinder heads. Ford did change the head casting and plug design a few years ago. New "one piece" plugs are also available that have been laser welded to reduce the chance of breakage...you might be a little late to this party:bigthumbsup
 

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There are countless threads on this, steps that can be taken to reduce this possibility and tools to pull any broken plugs left in the cylinder heads. ...you might be a little late to this party:bigthumbsup
You can say that again. Follow the plug removal procedures and you won't have a problem. I've changed mine 4 times now without the least problem, it's overblown unless you rush through it (or your dealer does), so don't get so upset over something rather trivial (trivial if you follow removal procedures).

If your dealer gives you crap or bad advice about it, that says a lot about them and take your car elsewhere.

Ford hasn't hushed anything up. Get your facts straight and calm down. Again, this has been covered a million times. One hours' worth of labor to replace the plugs at a dealer is perfectly reasonable if you don't want to do it yourself.

Click and Clack? Hmph. They rank right up there (well below, actually) with Goss' Garage. I've sponsored both programs and stopped for a reason. What's wrong with this country you ask? People pretending to be know-it-alls and others buying it. :winks
 

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gwhpnut, I don't blame you for being upset. It is very scary to attempt the plug removal knowing there is a good possibility they could break off. My engine was built 1 month after the problem so, I am supposed to be in good shape. Never the less, I followed the soaking procedure any way to make sure and the plugs skreeched and was difficult to turn. It was still scary but none of mine broke off. Click & Clak are great. I listen to them often on NPR radio. They do know their stuff.
 

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Yeah I understand you anger and points , As I had no forum for advice at the time.


But after taking a break and doing some research I found the plug puller tool at NAPA for 100 bucks and had the plug out in less than 5 minutes, You can even rent the tool I believe but I went ahead and bought it in case it was to ever happen again.

Problem solved.
 

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Just a pet peeve, it is "break" not "brake" :bigthumbsup

Just make sure your engine is very very cold (like in the morning after you have left it sit for a couple hours) or something like that, and you should be fine just to pull it out without any special tool or anything like that.
 

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What is different about these plugs? and what is the procedure? I keep hearing about a 1 peice replacement, but I'm sort of lost. I've never seen a 2 peice spark plug before. Sorry if I'm behind the times here too, but haven't owned my s197 for that long.

would autolites at a local parts store be an okay replacement ? o
 

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The Autolite stock replacement is a two-piece design. Champion makes a one piece plug and the PN is 7989. Some folks have had no problem with the Autolite plugs when replaced using the correct procure, while others have had a lot of trouble with breakage.

I'm trying to decide myself which one to use in my car. I prefer OEM Ford parts, but the two-piece plug just seems like a flawed design. I've been working on cars for 40+ years and never had a car where you had to worry about spark plugs breaking in half during normal removal.

Bruce
 

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The Autolite stock replacement is a two-piece design. Champion makes a one piece plug and the PN is 7989. Some folks have had no problem with the Autolite plugs when replaced using the correct procure, while others have had a lot of trouble with breakage.

I'm trying to decide myself which one to use in my car. I prefer OEM Ford parts, but the two-piece plug just seems like a flawed design. I've been working on cars for 40+ years and never had a car where you had to worry about spark plugs breaking in half during normal removal.

Bruce
This is where I say just buy the tool it's worth the investment, Especially if you can find one job to remove someone else's for a few bucks.

And then you can stick with the Ford plugs. And just use plenty of anti seize on the bottom part, and you'll be ok.
 

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What is different about these plugs? and what is the procedure? I keep hearing about a 1 peice replacement, but I'm sort of lost. I've never seen a 2 peice spark plug before. Sorry if I'm behind the times here too, but haven't owned my s197 for that long.

would autolites at a local parts store be an okay replacement ? o
Ford has a procedure on removing the plugs, Google it and you should have no trouble finding it.
I don't have time to provide a link but you shouldn't have trouble finding it. Good luck
 

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SERVICE PROCEDURE​

To remove spark plugs without damage, it is necessary to adhere exactly to this procedure before removal is attempted.​
Spark Plug Removal Procedure​
1. Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.
2. Back out the spark plugs no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Using Motorcraft® Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut
hex sits (1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon). A minimum period of 15 minutes of soak time is required. The cleaner will wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the
carbon deposits in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.
3. Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque is about
33 lb-ft (45 N-m). Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs.​

CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM OR HOT. THE ENGINE MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE WHEN
PERFORMING SPARK PLUG SERVICE. REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS FROM A WARM/HOT ENGINE INCREASES THE CHANCE THE
THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED.
NOTE:​
COMPLETELY REVIEW THE PRODUCT LABEL FOR THE MOTORCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER PRODUCT - USE AT ROOM
TEMPERATURE AND SHAKE WELL.

CAUTION: EXCESSIVE MOTORCRAFT® CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO
MUCH CLEANER FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR SPARK PLUG REMOVAL. SPARK PLUGS MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND
TOOLS.​

 

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Thanks!

I was gonna try and change them out this weekend, but I'm doubting I'll get that far. I may try to find an NGK that is comprable heat range to stock.
 
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