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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't changed my spark plugs or coil pack and was going to because I just got the Cylinder 7 misfire today. When I use the AC and drive for awhile and look it will be alot of like water and compensation around the vents.

Also when I go to hit the gas the car will shudder and sound like its somewhat hesitation.
 

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I haven't changed my spark plugs or coil pack and was going to because I just got the Cylinder 7 misfire today. When I use the AC and drive for awhile and look it will be alot of like water and compensation around the vents.

Also when I go to hit the gas the car will shudder and sound like its somewhat hesitation.
It sounds like you have two separate problems.

1. The cylinder 7 misfire will make the engine run rough and be down on power if it's severe enough. Hopefully a set of new plugs and a new coil pack for no.7 will cure it.

2. It seems there's too much moisture inside your AC system. Did you recently have it recharged? The system should be vacuumed to remove all moisture before being recharged with fresh refrigerant. If that wasn't done, you'll end up with the problem you're experiencing. Install a new accumulator/dryer and have the system vacuumed. That should solve it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It sounds like you have two separate problems.

1. The cylinder 7 misfire will make the engine run rough and be down on power if it's severe enough. Hopefully a set of new plugs and a new coil pack for no.7 will cure it.

2. It seems there's too much moisture inside your AC system. Did you recently have it recharged? The system should be vacuumed to remove all moisture before being recharged with fresh refrigerant. If that wasn't done, you'll end up with the problem you're experiencing. Install a new accumulator/dryer and have the system vacuumed. That should solve it.
First off thank you so much when I saw how long ago this thread was I was in fear I would get no response but thank you for taking the time to help. So I was able to clear all the dirt from the coil pack that was around them before removing them. I also wanted to say I never changed my spark plugs before but I'm going to plan to pay to have them replace. I fear I would mess them up if I attempt to do it alone for the first time.

I really hope a new set of plugs and coil pack does it, I don't know how a pack of bad coils look, I look at mine today and they seem somewhat okay, no damage in the end, but like you said since they been on there for awhile I will replace them. Also does the fuel injectors need to be change for this?

2. The only reason I think I have a vacuum leak because your comment describe what is happening in my car at times, some drives it doesn't happen, I think longer drives it does, like when I been driving for awhile with the AC on either MAC AC or regular, compensation or water, not huge amounts but alot of water will be on the vents and around them.

I did not recently had any work done to the AC that is what scared me, I recently brought the car from someone a year ago, and I haven't done any AC work, but I do notice alot of water will build up on some drives around the air vents and middle vents.
 

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be aware of the problem where the spark plugs can break off in the heads, assuming this is the first time they have been changed . . . . there are threads on here with all of the details

regarding the water in the A/C -- isn't there a drain where the condensation is supposed to drip out, and if that drain is clogged then the water can build up and cause the problem you are describing? I think I would start by confirming that, and then make sure the drain is not clogged.
 

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If you have water in the ductwork/vents then you probably have the common water drainage/infiltration issue. I am sorry to say I tried to do a quick search through the forum but I did not find any of the multiple threads I have read before (maybe someone can find it and post a useful link). What generally happens to many similar cars is the drain hole/hose/plug on the firewall, (open the hood, look at the metal between your feet and the engine, look for black rubber hose sticking out) gets clogged with leaves, dirt, etc. This is the space below the windshield with the open grating vent. The water that enters that vent is supposed to exit near the engine through 2 rubber tubes that often get clogged. Water rises up to the level where the air conditioner fan is pulling in outside air. If the car is out in the rain or you wash it, water goes into that vent and it can sit there for a long time. This usually causes all sorts of other electrical issues with radio/power windows etc. (but not the engine)
Try to search on water leak, firewall, dashboard. (there are other common leaks as well but the most likely is the firewall drain) (there are also videos on you tube that address this issue)

I dont have any info on the misfire/code problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
be aware of the problem where the spark plugs can break off in the heads, assuming this is the first time they have been changed . . . . there are threads on here with all of the details

regarding the water in the A/C -- isn't there a drain where the condensation is supposed to drip out, and if that drain is clogged then the water can build up and cause the problem you are describing? I think I would start by confirming that, and then make sure the drain is not clogged.
I also must be honest, I don't know alot about cars like I should. I'm studying the 4.6 engine and brought me a Haynes book and have been reading it. I think I could do it by myself but this would be the very very first time, also since it is the first Time they been changed that makes me uncomfortable to try. I don't have the tools, or the special plug to preform the job. Ford wants $600 freaking bucks to change them. I was able to take the coil packs off and clean use compress air to get all the dirt out and I was able to see the plugs.

Also since I'm a newb I really don't know what I need to check for the AC compensation coming through the vents.

If you have water in the ductwork/vents then you probably have the common water drainage/infiltration issue. I am sorry to say I tried to do a quick search through the forum but I did not find any of the multiple threads I have read before (maybe someone can find it and post a useful link). What generally happens to many similar cars is the drain hole/hose/plug on the firewall, (open the hood, look at the metal between your feet and the engine, look for black rubber hose sticking out) gets clogged with leaves, dirt, etc. This is the space below the windshield with the open grating vent. The water that enters that vent is supposed to exit near the engine through 2 rubber tubes that often get clogged. Water rises up to the level where the air conditioner fan is pulling in outside air. If the car is out in the rain or you wash it, water goes into that vent and it can sit there for a long time. This usually causes all sorts of other electrical issues with radio/power windows etc. (but not the engine)
Try to search on water leak, firewall, dashboard. (there are other common leaks as well but the most likely is the firewall drain) (there are also videos on you tube that address this issue)

I dont have any info on the misfire/code problem.

thank you, do you know what could be the issue with the car having problems with stuttering, and hesitating almost like the exhaust is jerking, when I push the gas petal at 40 mph to go faster its not a immediately smooth process, like normal cars.
 

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AC condensation from the vents can also be caused from using recirc mode too much. Recirc mode only allows interior air to be cooled over and over again. This cabin air will have high amounts of moisture in it from cooling the hot interior as well as moisture from people breathing.

If your not familiar with the spark plug issue for this model year, read carefully and follow the TSB 08-7-6. https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf
I would also recommend replacing the coil boots during plug change.
 

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a good non-dealer repair shop should be able to change the plugs for less than $600, but make sure they know about the "break-away plugs" or they could run into big trouble . . . there are posts on here with the details of how to get them out without breaking, I would find those, print them, and provide the to the shop
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
a good non-dealer repair shop should be able to change the plugs for less than $600, but make sure they know about the "break-away plugs" or they could run into big trouble . . . there are posts on here with the details of how to get them out without breaking, I would find those, print them, and provide the to the shop
Thank you JBert I will do more research and give that a try, and call around to come local shops to get some prices. I really want to fix the issue when the car gets to 40mph or when I hit the gas around 50mph it skips, stutter and hesitate almost like something is stopping it from accelerating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do not let your misfire go too long as the un-burnt fuel can harm the catalytic converter.
If I ran the codes again and nothing came up nor another misfire what does that mean? is a misfire only once? It was alot of dirt and things in between the coils I was able to clean all of them with compressed air. I'm going to try and get the spark plugs replace with the coils but online other people were saying even if I do that, it could be a vacuum leak, and I really don't know how to handle that.
 

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Roughly, Misfires happen all the time but it takes a certain number to trigger the code. If the misfire is on cyl 7 you could clear the code with a reader and then swap coil #6 with #7 and see if the same code for cyl #7 comes back. That would indicate the coils are good and the spark plug should be bad.
Then you can change the spark plugs and coil boots only saving money on the coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Roughly, Misfires happen all the time but it takes a certain number to trigger the code. If the misfire is on cyl 7 you could clear the code with a reader and then swap coil #6 with #7 and see if the same code for cyl #7 comes back. That would indicate the coils are good and the spark plug should be bad.
Then you can change the spark plugs and coil boots only saving money on the coils.
Thanks for the reply, I will start with spark plugs tbh and see if that helps. The owner who sold me the car, I don't know when he changed them so I will start there.
 
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