[emilram11]

@emilram11

The reason I went with the Infinity speakers is because ncshooter, who started this thread, recommended them and then the installer independently recommended them as well. I'm sure there are better speakers out there, but if I understood the installer correctly, a higher end speaker would draw too much power from the amp, if that makes any sense. Anyway, my stereo is 100% improved with these speakers. Can't go wrong for 40 bucks. It's a shame that Ford didn't spend an extra $40 to improve the system. Hope this helps.

Good advice Black and Gold. I'm keeping these on my short list. Will decide very soon. My speakers will be part of a Christmas gift to myself

 

[black12]

I am definitely going to install some aftermarket speakers, I am just trying to decide which ones to go with. Also what adapters I need to make the install as simple as possible, without cutting up the factory harness.

I am thinking of going with these speakers http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ft-1&pf_rd_r=0114VZP2XK0Y1HD13VHV&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=1280661682&pf_rd_i=typ01

And will this set of adapters work since it comes with both for 10.95, instead of the one for 10.95? Amazon.com: Speaker Harnesses For 1998-up Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda, and Nissan vehicles: Car Electronics

 

[randeez11]

My quick writeup on 6x8 speaker install on my 2012 today...for those thinking about doing it, DO IT. I chose a set of Ininity 180w - very good value for money, pretty cheap on Amazon

Tools required:
------------------
8mm socket
6mm socket
Torx T30 bit/driver
Small flatblade screwdriver

Parts:
-------
Speakers of your choice
Metra “turbo wire” install kit PN: 72-5600 (optional)


The front door panel removal is very easy on the mustang. This is a plane jane GT --- for those w/ the shaker setup you will also need to remove a trim ring around the bigger speaker on the bottom. The whole process is very easy and shouldn't take very long per side.

*Note: All the hardware on the panel is essentially hand tight from factory. Don’t over torque it putting it all back

Start out by removing all the trim bits to expose the mounting hardware:

Remove the power window switch plate by prying up lightly on the edge of the plate, it should pop right off. Disconnect the wire harness and put the assembly aside
Remove the cover plate behind the door handle assembly. Just pull the handle to the full open position then pry back slightly on the plate, it pops right off.
Remove the plate in the center of the armrest by lightly prying from the top. It pops right off
Remove the bezel around the door lock post. Pops right off
Remove the bezel for the mirror control assembly (triangular) at the front of the door. The drivers side will have a harness for the switch – disconnect it. Passenger side just pops off.

Hardware (red) and bits (blue) layout

Now it is time to unbolt stuff.
Remove 7 8mm bolts around the perimeter of the door panel. There are 2 along the inner edge (towards the front of the car), 3 on the bottom edge and 2 on the outer edge. The outer two are covered by small round plugs which easily pop up with light pressure via flathead.
Remove 1 8mm bolt from the window switch plate area (kinda hard to see, top edge

Remove 1 T30 torx flatheaded bolt from center armrest area

Remove 1 T30 torx flatheaded bolt from the center of door release handle area

Lightly pull up on the door panel once everything has been unbolted to free it from the self-latching system. Once it is free pull it forward slightly to expose the connections. Disconnect the harness pieces exposed (they are color coded and different sized…you can’t mess up J )

The door latch release cable can either be disconnected fully, or you can simply rotate the door panel out of the way. For the speaker install it is far easier to just move the panel out of the way rather than disconnect all the bits…

Once exposed you can see the inner vapor barrier and the speaker assembly. The speaker is held into the mounting bezel by 4 6mm bolts. Unbolt them and disconnect the 2-prong harness.

Installing the speaker is pretty painless. I had to modify the mounting area slightly – namely the lower “ring” of the factory mounting bezel hit the Infinity mounting hardware. All I did was make a small slice on the riser part of the plastic, then just sheer it off with pliers. It looks factory J

Mount the new speaker. I’d recommend you use foam tape around the
mounting surface to ensure there are no rattles. Now I did the quick n; easy route by spending the 10$ on a harness adaptor. You can splice the factory harness if you wish, but if you are not used to making electronic connections (or want to easily swap back to factory later) I’d say just drop the 10$ on the pair of harness wires.

Test the speakers real quick to ensure everything works as desired. If your tweeter rotates for directional output you may need to play with the best position.



Button everything up in pretty much reverse order (LOL…sounds like a Hayes manual). Overall extremely easy to swap out the factory ford 25w bits for something a little better with potential for future growth.

Thanks for the great info ! A question ? Where do you get the harness adapters that you mentiioned ?

 

[Wrext]

Good to hear that new speakers up front help the overall numb, muddy sound!

 

[Mustang04Guy19]

ok, sorry, not trying to thread jack, but, I bought the Kappa series version of the Infinity 6x8s (6829cf) for the rear speakers and Infinity Kappa 509cs component speakers for the front. I also have an amplifier with 90 watts RMS. Starting to do research on what I need to do to keep the factory stereo (Shaker 500 without NAV), and will start working on this between Christmas and new years. I know i need a line out converter to patch in the RCA leads, but other than that i am not sure what else. I searched and saw some results for running an amp for a sub, but not too many for an amp and the 4 full range speakers. The Factory 8 in woofers run solely off the factory amps right? Any insight on what needs to be done in order to wire this correctly will be much appreciated. I put in a sound system in my 04 Mustang, but that did not have the Mach 460, so a little concerned with how to wire it with existing factory amplifiers.

 

[SD_Stang]

Alot of times higher end speakers are louder with lower watts from what I've heard but it's true they can handle more power then what the stock deck would put out. One thing someone had mentioned is something about 8 inch door speakers I would say those are 6 inch at best I know the plates are 5x7 along with the rears. Has anyone added a small amp to the stock deck with a little sub I was thinking about upgrading but wanted to keep it fairly light weight.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

buscribing! :yelwacko:

 

[Mustang04Guy19]

Some clarification, the amp I have is an infinity 475a amp with 4x90 Watts RMS. The Shaker 500 has two 8" woofers in the door under the 6x8 (5x7) full range. The Shaker 500 has 6 speakers total.

 

[aa1268]

ok, sorry, not trying to thread jack, but...

I always hate when people say this: "not trying to, but I am going to intentionally do it." However, you're post is relevant, so no worries .

Starting to do research on what I need to do to keep the factory stereo (Shaker 500 without NAV), and will start working on this between Christmas and new years. I know i need a line out converter to patch in the RCA leads, but other than that i am not sure what else. I searched and saw some results for running an amp for a sub, but not too many for an amp and the 4 full range speakers.

If you don't have one already, I recommend an AudioControl LC6i line output converter. That way, you can tap into your system in multiple places. Otherwise, you're not missing anything (Factory radio --> LOC --> Amp --> Speakers).

The Factory 8 in woofers run solely off the factory amps right?

Correct, the factory 8's run off the factory amp.

Any insight on what needs to be done in order to wire this correctly will be much appreciated. I put in a sound system in my 04 Mustang, but that did not have the Mach 460, so a little concerned with how to wire it with existing factory amplifiers.

This can be a bit tricky. If I were you, I'd do the following:
Replace the front 5x7s - tap into this feed (not full range - higher frequencies) using the LC6i - send to an amp - send amp feed to front 5x7 speakers
Replace the 8" speakers - tap into this feed (not full range - lower frequencies) using the LC6i - send to an amp - send amp feed to front 8" speakers
Replace the rear 5x7s - I would not amp these (this is more ambient sound and will not be noticed as much).

The reason you may want to consider an LC6i is:
Most LOCs offer one input, and one or two outputs. In my situation, I chose this route (LC2i) because I only had an interest in adding a subwoofer (tapped into 8" speakers --> ran feed to sub amp --> sent sub amp feed to subwoofer). However, to do this correctly in your case, you need two inputs because you want to either (1) amp your four 5x7s (front and rear) or (2) amp your front 5x7s and front 8s. (1) Front 5x7s use a crossed over signal (removes low frequencies) and rear 5x7s are full range. Sync's voice (e.g., "Playing Artist Jimi Hendrix") goes through the front speakers and not the rear. Therefore, to do this correctly, you want to tap into both feeds. (2) Front 5x7s use a crossed over signal (removes low frequencies) and front 8's use a crossed over signal (removes high frequencies).

 

[Mustang04Guy19]

Thanks for the info; I'll have to remember not to say that phrase anymore. :bigthumbsup

So, just curious, if the woofers are already amped, why not amp the front 5x7s and then the rear full range 5x7s, will it mess with the functionality or operation of the SYNC's voice?

I got the 509 cs fronts that are 5.25" with the Metra adapter that allows for a tweeter to be mounted next to it in the same space as the factory speaker. I saw that on another thread in the forum. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-mustang-talk/275313-new-component-speakers-my-2011-mustang-gt.html

So if there is already a crossover on the fronts will I still get mid bass out of the components, or just high frequencies? I am asking because the frequency response is 55-35,000 Hz; having a factory crossed over signal, I won't reap the full benefit of the speaker.

I have looked at the LC6i and am probably going to go with that LOC.

Thanks again for all the info.

 

[aa1268]

So, just curious, if the woofers are already amped, why not amp the front 5x7s and then the rear full range 5x7s, will it mess with the functionality or operation of the SYNC's voice?

The woofers are amped in the same manner as the 5x7s (off the head unit), so I'm not sure I understand your point. To address your question, you can easily take the route of amping your front and rear 5x7s. If doing so, however, ensure that you tap into the front speakers AND rear speakers so you maintain the functionality of your system. Front speakers = crossed over signal and SYNC's voice. Rear speakers = full range and no SYNC voice (continues to softly play music in the background).

The reason I recommended that you just amp the front speakers is because that's considered your "sound stage" (i.e., the speakers that you hear most and produce 85% of what you hear). The rear speakers are more of a filler (ambient) and I don't think you'll be as impressed with them. The biggest reason that I recommend amping the front speakers, however, is that you may be unhappy with the bass output of your system because everything will be louder but the 8" midbass speakers. If you went the route of replacing your 8" midbass speakers with the Shelby/Kicker replacements and amp them along with your front 5x7 replacements, I feel your system will be well rounded.

So if there is already a crossover on the fronts will I still get mid bass out of the components, or just high frequencies? I am asking because the frequency response is 55-35,000 Hz; having a factory crossed over signal, I won't reap the full benefit of the speaker.

I'd imagine that the front speakers are crossed over anwhere from 80 - 100 Hz. This will mean that your components will only be responsible for producing all frequencies over ~80 Hz. Additionally, this means the the midbass speakers (8") are also crossed over at that same point and is responsible for producing all frequencies under 80 Hz. The reality is that this is an ideal setup. Your tweeters handle the high end, your compenents handle the midrange, and the 8" speakers handle the bass. THX setups recommend similar setups, as it takes the responsiblity off one speaker having to produce all frequencies (which it cannot do).

I have looked at the LC6i and am probably going to go with that LOC.

Good to hear!

 

[worrgp]

ive got a base model so ive bought a set of 5x7 infinity kappas for the front and going to run them on a alpine pdx5....the rears will just get disconnected
and i will be adding prolly 2 jl 8in subs in the trunk

 

[Magnamover]

Great choice on the Infiniti Kappas and a good writeup. I installed 4 last year. Mids and highs are awesome but I needed a subwoofer so I installed a Bazooka powered sub in the trunk. No other amps needed made it a simple install and I only turn up the volume 1/2 way max. I have heard the sound stage front talk before but I get a lot of sound from the rear too.

 

[Napoleon85]

The woofers are amped in the same manner as the 5x7s (off the head unit), so I'm not sure I understand your point. To address your question, you can easily take the route of amping your front and rear 5x7s. If doing so, however, ensure that you tap into the front speakers AND rear speakers so you maintain the functionality of your system. Front speakers = crossed over signal and SYNC's voice. Rear speakers = full range and no SYNC voice (continues to softly play music in the background).

I thought there were two small amps in the drivers side door for the 8" woofers, at least there were in the '10. I may be off-base on this, but I really though this was the case.

 

[SD_Stang]

Just curious if any of you have had the door speakers out and actually measured them? I've had 8's before and the pictures of the door speakers don't look that big. It's very uncommon even in the aftermarket to have 8 inch door speakers unless you have a Large SUV or Truck with massive doors. I had thought about upgrading the 5x7's to Focal seperates with a 6 inch mid base in the lower (shaker 500 location) door with a seperate Tweeter then their 5x7 plates for rear fill with crossovers for a little more clear sound not sure if I will can or will add a small amp with a loan 8 for some base but I'd like to keep it all light with no massive box or mutiple 10-12-15 inch subs.

 

[leebo63]

Great "How To" and great overall post. Thanks!

 

[Mustang04Guy19]

The woofers are amped in the same manner as the 5x7s (off the head unit), so I'm not sure I understand your point. To address your question, you can easily take the route of amping your front and rear 5x7s. If doing so, however, ensure that you tap into the front speakers AND rear speakers so you maintain the functionality of your system. Front speakers = crossed over signal and SYNC's voice. Rear speakers = full range and no SYNC voice (continues to softly play music in the background).

The reason I recommended that you just amp the front speakers is because that's considered your "sound stage" (i.e., the speakers that you hear most and produce 85% of what you hear). The rear speakers are more of a filler (ambient) and I don't think you'll be as impressed with them. The biggest reason that I recommend amping the front speakers, however, is that you may be unhappy with the bass output of your system because everything will be louder but the 8" midbass speakers. If you went the route of replacing your 8" midbass speakers with the Shelby/Kicker replacements and amp them along with your front 5x7 replacements, I feel your system will be well rounded.


I'd imagine that the front speakers are crossed over anwhere from 80 - 100 Hz. This will mean that your components will only be responsible for producing all frequencies over ~80 Hz. Additionally, this means the the midbass speakers (8") are also crossed over at that same point and is responsible for producing all frequencies under 80 Hz. The reality is that this is an ideal setup. Your tweeters handle the high end, your compenents handle the midrange, and the 8" speakers handle the bass. THX setups recommend similar setups, as it takes the responsiblity off one speaker having to produce all frequencies (which it cannot do).


Good to hear!

I talked to an installer near my house about amping the front Infinity Kappa 5.25 components and rear Infinity Kappa 6x8s, and they were saying there would be interference between the factory amps powering the woofers and the infinity amp powering the fronts and rears. Any comments or thoughts on this? They were saying get rid of the factory amps, and install a 2 channel along with the 4 channel and run the full, flat base signal to the line out converter (they recommended the Alpine PXE-H660 with Imprint) to the amps and then the 2 channel amp to either the factory woofers, or a shallow depth 8in sub and the 4 channel amp to the speakers. The cost of that would send this project over what I was thinking I wanted to spend, but am willing to get what I need to make the system sound better. So just salesmen trying to sell, or really valid points? Anyone have any experience with the Alpine PXE-H660?

Will the system still sound great with tapping into the mid/high signal for the front and the full signal for the rear? Or should I be tapping into a different signal? I think it would still provide more bass output with the 6x8s in the rear with added power from the amp. The Fronts will take care of the mids and highs and I got the 5.25 because I knew I wasn't going to be pushing a lot of low bass through them.

Any suggestions? Thanks again for all your help.

 

[aa1268]

I talked to an installer near my house about amping the front Infinity Kappa 5.25 components and rear Infinity Kappa 6x8s, and they were saying there would be interference between the factory amps powering the woofers and the infinity amp powering the fronts and rears. Any comments or thoughts on this? They were saying get rid of the factory amps, and install a 2 channel along with the 4 channel and run the full, flat base signal to the line out converter (they recommended the Alpine PXE-H660 with Imprint) to the amps and then the 2 channel amp to either the factory woofers, or a shallow depth 8in sub and the 4 channel amp to the speakers. The cost of that would send this project over what I was thinking I wanted to spend, but am willing to get what I need to make the system sound better. So just salesmen trying to sell, or really valid points? Anyone have any experience with the Alpine PXE-H660?

Will the system still sound great with tapping into the mid/high signal for the front and the full signal for the rear? Or should I be tapping into a different signal? I think it would still provide more bass output with the 6x8s in the rear with added power from the amp. The Fronts will take care of the mids and highs and I got the 5.25 because I knew I wasn't going to be pushing a lot of low bass through them.

Any suggestions? Thanks again for all your help.

It sounds like he may be going a bit overboard. My recommendation is to keep it simple by tapping into the sources where you plan to replace your speakers. If you're set on replacing just the front and rears (excluding the 8" midbass speakers), tap into the front's for your front replacements and tap into the rear for your rear replacements. If you want to add another amp for your 8" midbass speakers (assuming you replace them), then tap into them for your replacements. Think of it as a 1:1 relationship. I supposed you could just grab the full range signal and do a lot with it (aftermarket EQ, etc.), but to be honest, you'll lose some of the functionality of your system (SYNC voice).

 

[faztcobra]

Thanks OP for the thread. Hadn't really been thinking about doing a speaker upgrade, but I am sort of an audiophile and after seeing the Infinity set on Amazon for $40ish, I snatched them and the wiring adapters. I hope to do the install while I have some time off next week. Maybe some day, I'll get around to adding my JL 10W6 / 500/1 amp into the fold. Just not ready to dynamat the car yet. Question...there's a 0 and 3 db setting on the tweets. Factory, it's set at 0. Are you guys who have used these speakers just leaving them at that setting?

 

[Beef Supreme]

fazt, thanks for bumping this. Now if I could just find a base wiring diagram...