WIRING INFORMATION - FORD / MUSTANG / 1999 / COBRA / AUDIO
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Radio
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Radio 12 Volt (Constant) = Purple/Light Blue At Radio Harness
Radio Ground = Black/Light Green And Black At Radio Harness
Radio Ignition = Black/Pink At Radio Harness
Radio Illumination = Light Blue/Red (Dimmer) At Radio Harness
Speakers
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Left Front Speaker +/- = Orange/Light Green - Light Blue/White At Radio Harness
Rear Front Speaker +/- = White/Light Green - Green/Orange At Radio Harness
Left Rear Speaker +/- = Gray/Light Blue - Tan/Yellow At Radio Harness
Rear Right Speaker +/- = Orange/Red - Brown/Pink At Radio Harness
Those should be all the colors you need and they are on the back of the radio in the factory harness. Use military splice or 3M scotch locks to tap into the wires you need.
For subwoofers you should only need either the Left Rear or Rear Right +/- and the radio ignition for the remote wire to the amplifier which is black with pink strip.
Here is a wiring diagram pdf.
Everyone is telling me to rewire all the speakers as using the amps in the older models is weak, can damage aftermarket HU's internal amp, and hurt speakers.
1994 Ford Mustang Stereo WiringConstant 12V+Light Green/Yellow Switched 12V+Yellow/Black GroundBlack IlluminationLight Blue/Red Dimmern/a Amplifier RemoteDark Blue AntennaRight Front Front Speakers5" x 7" DoorsLeft Front (+)Orange/Light Green Left Front (-)Light Blue/White Right Front (+)White/Light Green Right Front (-)Dark Green/Orange Rear Speakers5" x 7" Rear DeckLeft Rear (+)Gray/Light Blue Left Rear (-)Tan/Yellow Right Rear (+)Orange/Red Right Rear (-)Brown/Pink
source:Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers
my 01 mustange gt i just bought it the radio turns on and functions correctly but im not getting any sound out of the speakers and may mention its all factory. can anyone tell me where to begin looking.. thanks
Well for starters the wires that are at the radio are not the speaker wire, they are power, ground and data wires. The speaker wires are back at the factory tuner box in the drivers rear of the trunk behind the carpet.
This is my first post and hope this is the right spot for this ? I tried to find answer but coudn't open the wiredoc site. Heres my question.
I have an 07 gt with the shaker 500. I have a nice amp and a 10 woofer I would like to put in trunk. Is this an easy or hard process. Is the shaker 500 amp in the trunk already, if so, can I just use the power and ground from the factory amp for my amp and 10? Hope this makes sense. If its out of my league, thats fine but was just wondering how tough it is too add ur own amp and box, thanks, Drew
Hi i'm new to this i have a 02 conv stang and my rear speakers are out. at first they were working and now it just dosent work anymore. i have the mach 460 series system with a sony aftermarket amp. I just recently discovered i have 2 stock amps and im lost to finding the problem. someone give me some directions.
I found a pretty good website for anyone interested in hooking up subs or speakers to an aftermarket amp. Not quite a factory harness diagram but very useful. Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams
I need some help here. I have my car all apart in the driveway trying to install a new stereo. It's become a two day project so far.
I've a 2009 Mustang, base model with the 4 speaker stock system. It's out now and sitting on my counter.
I'm replacing it with a Kenwood KDC-BT752HD
I've got the wiring harness all set up but I have one stupid red wire that needs to go to the ignition for power. For some reason they don't wire the after market harness with a hot wire. They want me to directly hit the fuse box, which I don't want to do. It's a royal pain.
Anyway, if I could just find which wire in the car's harness is the one that goes to the fuse box starter/radio relay (it's not a fuse damnit!) I can scotch clamp it right there at the harness instead of pulling the entire fuse box and all that not-fun stuff.
Anyone know what color wire is the one that matches the hot in there? The ford harness does not use conventional colors!
I found another switched wire and used that since Ford makes this quite difficult to figure out on your own. gotta love that multi-meter!
I used the port on the top of the radio for the traction control and the radio works perfectly.
Now I had to take it all apart after putting it together because the face plate looks like crap. It's sunk in more than the original plate. Washers took care of that for me and I'll be on the lookout for a replacement because I just don't like this thing.
It's a Scosche FD1424B / FD1424 if anyone is interested. Looks really ugly.
I have no heat or rear defroster! Found that out today. I have no idea why and I have no clue what fuse it is because from the looks of it, it's a relay and not a fuse. I checked as many as I can. All good.
I tore the car apart - again thinking I had a poor connection but that's not the case. I'm going to have no skin left on my knuckles at this point!
Anyone have a clue why the heat and defroster would crap out from installing a radio? The connections are not even related. I'm stumped. Going to get the multi-meter on it --guess when? Tomorrow. Why? because we have to go out tonight and have no time. Any help before we test would be greatly appreciated. I have no warranty on the car as it was bought used and Ford's going to charge a small fortune to even look at it - something I just can't afford right now.
OK hopefully this helps any others out there that run across the same nonsense I did. It's fixed!
Stupid Ford ties the climate control console in with the radio. Who ever heard of such a thing?
So we're poking around at fuses, relays and other things and I say, "Let's just put the old radio in and see if for some weird reason it works."
Matt laughs. He 'amuses' me and wouldn't you know it, it friggin' works. Now who's the 'tard?
So we figure out the one wire we didn't hook up in that mess of adapters/harness that says, "connect to white wire on the interface" - that we didn't bother hooking up at all because there was no white wire anywhere - is the one that is causing the heat not to work. We figured this was another one of those "extra" wires for items the car didn't have. So knowing we needed another switched wire, we tied it in with the one for the radio.
Fuse #32 in the passenger footwell is a 12v ignition activated source for anyone looking to add an aftermarket stereo or whatever else needs a switched 12v power source.
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