sounds like same issue ive been having...if it sounds like a chirping supposedly the pilot bearing is worn out. im planning on replacing my clutch/flywheel, etc. to solve the problem, instead of just replacing the bearing.
Squeak when clutch is depressed. & What tools needed for starter replacement ?
Well, First question is when i am idling i hear a squeak dunno from where but its a bit loud and if i just push the clutch pedal in a Centermeter the squeak goes away. where could this be coming from?
2nd Question is- What tools do i need to change out my starter its a 94 GT.
Thanks Guys!
2nd Question is- What tools do i need to change out my starter its a 94 GT.
Thanks Guys!
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its def pilot bearing just went through the same issue ford racing has one for 13 bucks pregreased:bigthumbsup pretty sure 2nd question is a half in wrench..
how do you guys know its the pilot bearing and not the throwout bearing?
Wow, I really did not wanna hear this! Dam, I thought it was maybe a loose bolt or something. I really doubt its somethin serious like pilot bearing!
The noise is their but if i just tap the clutch pedal with my hand it goes away. i mean i can just put a 1/4 of a pound and it will go away.
The noise is their but if i just tap the clutch pedal with my hand it goes away. i mean i can just put a 1/4 of a pound and it will go away.
don't forget to put on some protective eye glasses when swaping out that starter, nothing better then some crud dropping in your eye when your under the car. also don't forget to shim the starter.
because the throw out bearing would scream when clutch was engaged not at idle :so
don't forget to put on some protective eye glasses when swaping out that starter, nothing better then some crud dropping in your eye when your under the car. also don't forget to shim the starter.
how do you shim the starter? whats that mean?
Well mine does it ONLY when clutch is fully out! if i just push it in a little it goes away.because the throw out bearing would scream when clutch was engaged not at idle :so
is it throw out bearing?
some times a replacement starter will not line up on the block and engage with the fly wheel correctly. it may need a small thin pc of metal better known as a shim slid in between the block and the starter motor to get the correct alignment. this is not always the case some starters bolt in with no issues. however when starting the car for the first time after you instal the starter if you hear a load noise you may have to put a shim in place. the noise will be loud. like turning the key again after the car is started.how do you shim the starter? whats that mean?
some times a replacement starter will not line up on the block and engage with the fly wheel correctly. it may need a small thin pc of metal better known as a shim slid in between the block and the starter motor to get the correct alignment. this is not always the case some starters bolt in with no issues. however when starting the car for the first time after you instal the starter if you hear a load noise you may have to put a shim in place. the noise will be loud. like turning the key again after the car is started.
yea, that is what my starter does now that i have in the car! maybe all it needs is a shim? i already bought the new one but haven't put it on. what size are the bolts on starter?
0 and that noise is getting louder and louder. the squeak! what could it be? i have to press clutch in a little more now and got louder.
what happens when throw out bearings go out?
what happens when throw out bearings go out?
it doesnt matter its either the pilot bearing or the throwout bearing but either way the tranny has to come out
Well, have any of you guys pulled yalls 5.0 tranny before? I just wanna know what im looking at. is it a long hard job or easy 8 hour job?
anyone? I do most my work. and it seems easy on these. but if its a long process and stuff ill just pay a shop.
A bad throw out bearing will squeal when you push the clutch pedal in. Assuming the T/O is adjusted properly, the T/O is not in contact with the fingers of the pressure plate UNTIL you depress the clutch pedal. When the pedal is not being depressed, the T/O is just sitting there, not spinning.
A pilot bearing, on the other hand, is turning all time that the engine is running. Here is where it gets a little tricky..... The bearing is actually 2 pieces. An outer case which is on contact with the crank and the inner, needle roller part, that the input shaft rides on. When the engine is running and the clutch pedal is out, the bearing halves are turning the same speed. When you depress the clutch pedal, the disc releases from the flywheel/pressure plate surfaces and the input shaft starts to slow down. This causes the inner needle roller bearing half to begin spinning at a different speed than the outer casing, which is still turning engine rpm.
A bad pilot will squeal/squeek when the engine is running and will quiet down as soon as you push the clutch pedal in, causing the inner half to slow down. :bigthumbsup
Changing one is not that bad if you're mechanically inclined and have a decent set of tools and a floor jack and jack stands (or ramps). You can get a Chilton's or Haynes manual from your local parts store to give you the procedure for removing the transmission and it'll make it easier. The one bit of advice I can give you is BEFORE you remove the driveshaft, take a grease pencil or similiar and put a mark on both the driveshaft itself and the pinion mating flange. That way, when you go to reinstall everything, you can be certain that you put the driveshaft back in at the same orientation as it came out. If you don't and it goes back in 180* from where it was originally, you have a vibration as you drive down the road. :bigthumbsup
Lastly, when you get down to the pilot bearing, a clutch alignment tool (plastic ones can be purchased at the local parts store for about $6) and a few slices of bread will make removing the pilot bearing simple, easy and clean. Simply break of pieces off the bread and using the alignment tool, pack it into the crank (pilot bearing). Keep packing in small pieces and the pilot bearing will be forced out of the crank in short order. :bigthumbsup It sounds funny, but trust me, it works. Many old timers will tell you to do the same thing, only using grease. Bread does the same thing but it isn't as messy. :hihi:
Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
A pilot bearing, on the other hand, is turning all time that the engine is running. Here is where it gets a little tricky..... The bearing is actually 2 pieces. An outer case which is on contact with the crank and the inner, needle roller part, that the input shaft rides on. When the engine is running and the clutch pedal is out, the bearing halves are turning the same speed. When you depress the clutch pedal, the disc releases from the flywheel/pressure plate surfaces and the input shaft starts to slow down. This causes the inner needle roller bearing half to begin spinning at a different speed than the outer casing, which is still turning engine rpm.
A bad pilot will squeal/squeek when the engine is running and will quiet down as soon as you push the clutch pedal in, causing the inner half to slow down. :bigthumbsup
Changing one is not that bad if you're mechanically inclined and have a decent set of tools and a floor jack and jack stands (or ramps). You can get a Chilton's or Haynes manual from your local parts store to give you the procedure for removing the transmission and it'll make it easier. The one bit of advice I can give you is BEFORE you remove the driveshaft, take a grease pencil or similiar and put a mark on both the driveshaft itself and the pinion mating flange. That way, when you go to reinstall everything, you can be certain that you put the driveshaft back in at the same orientation as it came out. If you don't and it goes back in 180* from where it was originally, you have a vibration as you drive down the road. :bigthumbsup
Lastly, when you get down to the pilot bearing, a clutch alignment tool (plastic ones can be purchased at the local parts store for about $6) and a few slices of bread will make removing the pilot bearing simple, easy and clean. Simply break of pieces off the bread and using the alignment tool, pack it into the crank (pilot bearing). Keep packing in small pieces and the pilot bearing will be forced out of the crank in short order. :bigthumbsup It sounds funny, but trust me, it works. Many old timers will tell you to do the same thing, only using grease. Bread does the same thing but it isn't as messy. :hihi:
Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
Wow, That was some nice info! thanks man ^^^^. ya I'm mechanically inclined but never pulled a back wheel drive tranny but figure it probably is easier.
its not bad, besides if you do the work you have ore pride. It only weighs 75lbs i did it myself for the first time on gravel no jack . The first is the worst now i can change flywheel in an hour.
do it yourself save money for were iut counts:bigthumbsup
do it yourself save money for were iut counts:bigthumbsup
yep! i do all my work myself. well most of it unless im bein lazy. how long will that squeaky pilot bearing last me? and what will it do when it goes out?
Ok, This sqeak is still their but same loudness its annoying! Ok, After reading this link i see theirs a way to adjust the clutch pedal and make this noise go away.
Now can someone let me know if i can do same thing on mustang?
Throw-out Bearing Squeek (Fix??) - YotaTech Forums
Now can someone let me know if i can do same thing on mustang?
Throw-out Bearing Squeek (Fix??) - YotaTech Forums
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