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Squeaky rack

6119 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  tripleblack
I seem to remember sombody posting something about a TSB on squeaky rack and pinion's on 2001 (and maybe others) GT's. I did a search on AFM and could not find it. Does anybody remember it.
When I turn the wheel side to side there is a noticable squeak from the rack area.
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My 2000 GT has the same prob - I never found anything.
How ever, it makes a difference wether it is dry or raining.
Let me see what I can find.
Allthough I am pretty sure that there IS a TSB on that, I was not able to find one. How ever these are the most common problems and their solution.

Most of the people fixing this problem referred either to:
1. Tie rod end out of lubrification or
2. Steering rack bushing / bolts loose not lubrificated.

For 1. Replace tie rod ends and do an alignment, OR drill a hole in the cap tap it and install a zerk fitting. You should be fine to re grease the tie rod end now.

For 2. Loosen the bolts from the steering rack, hammer them out. Now you should be able to take the bushings out and lubricate with some brake caliper grease. Put everything back together and you should be fine.
I had the same problem on my wife's Winstar, and yes, it's the tie rod ends. Take a grease gun with a needle fitting and inject some grease into the boot, just don't overdo it. Fill it until you see the boot begin to move/bulge. I couldn't get much into mine because the cheap needle I got from the autoparts store kept popping off, so it took a couple days to work itself around. It's not a 100% fix, but it will last you quite a while, atleast until you can get them replaced. Good Luck!
Thanks guys, I will try the greese first, it does seem to happen after driving in the rain for a while
I can't remember where I found this. There are two TSB's on the steering rack squeek. TSB 05-14-3 is for 2002-2004 Mustangs but supersedes TSB 04-24-8, probably for older model Mustangs.



TSB
05-14-3
Publication Date: June 30, 2005

FORD: 2002-2004 Mustang

This article supersedes TSB 04-24-8 to update the Action.

ISSUE:

Some 2002-2004 Mustang vehicles may exhibit a squeak or creak type noise when turning.

ACTION:

Replace both power steering gear tube brackets. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 211-02 Steering Gear Mounting. Tighten the steering gear mounting fasteners to 52 lb-ft (70 N-m).

PART NUMBER | PART NAME
E5DZ-3K620-A | Bracket
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RAT,

Reading that, it seams to me as if i've read that before.

Thank's a lot!
Does a TSB mean they will fix free?
Mine is doing the same thing.
Dropped

I seem to remember sombody posting something about a TSB on squeaky rack and pinion's on 2001 (and maybe others) GT's. I did a search on AFM and could not find it. Does anybody remember it.
When I turn the wheel side to side there is a noticable squeak from the rack area.
This is an old thread, but the information is still good, if incomplete. I'll add some:

This is a very common malady with cars that have lowering springs. Lowering the car puts added stress on the tire rod ends (and the more you lower the car, the more stress you get). Premature failure of the tie rod ends can even result in an unsafe driving situation.

Check www.steeeda.com for their bump steer kit (a redesigned tie rod end that fixes the problem and restores proper geometry to the front end suspension on lowered cars). If the car is not lowered more than 1.2", you can run regular parts.

UPR makes a kit as well.

If it IS the steering rack, the usual culprits are the bushings, just as 76 says. If I went to the trouble of pulling out the old bushings, I'd replace them AND lube them at the same time.

I notice that someone did post the appropriate TSB for the power steering fix - this was a problem that usually cropped up when the cars were still new, but could still occur. Good to know the proper torque for those bolts.

I've also seen this happen on cars where the isolators were removed when lowering springs were installed. Running "dry", without any sort of isolator for the springs, can create squeaks and squeals.

TSB's WILL be performed if your car is still under warranty - otherwise, no you have to do it or pay for it.
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Yup, it is an old thread. I forgot ot post the end of the Story. After further investigation I found that the drivers side ball joint was making the noise. I used a greese needle and filled up the joint and have not had the noise return.
Yup, it is an old thread. I forgot ot post the end of the Story. After further investigation I found that the drivers side ball joint was making the noise. I used a greese needle and filled up the joint and have not had the noise return.
Had the same sort of thing, but it turned out to be the tie rod end. Pumped it full of grease and problem solved.
Lube

LOL, grease, the universal tool!

Too true, sometimes.

Don't anyone worry about resurrecting an old thread - they are great sources of information - or good opportunities to update a bit of data. LOTS of new information flows in here everyday.
Anyone with any info on newer 2006 model Gts? Mine is doing it but it sounds like the rack and not the Tie rod ends. It is still under warranty, but if anyone has any info it would be great so the dealership does not NPF it ( no problem found) fluid level is ok and I see no leaks from the rack. Maybe the pump?
Common

Anyone with any info on newer 2006 model Gts? Mine is doing it but it sounds like the rack and not the Tie rod ends. It is still under warranty, but if anyone has any info it would be great so the dealership does not NPF it ( no problem found) fluid level is ok and I see no leaks from the rack. Maybe the pump?
The dealer SHOULD be able to fix it, IF you can demonstrate the problem. If it runs and hides anytime the car gets near the dealer, you have a problem...

If you want to self-diagnose...

Does it make the noise sitting still while you are cutting the wheel all the way lock to lock? This is probably strain on the power steering system, and might be normal.

Does it make the noise when in motion, particularly while maneuvering in a parking lot at low speed? This is probably a steering or suspension issue, though identifying which component requires a little time under the car.

Pick a time to run it by the dealer (even if you can't leave it for work right at that moment) when it is exhibiting the problem. If you get the service writer to experience it with you, you have a much better chance of it being fixed.
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