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hi guys i have just put in my spec stage 2 clutch and billet flywheel.but i bought the tri ax shifter:nono: and i think its a pice of :cursing::cursing: the shifts are long didnt notice any real decrease in throw. and it is very stiff and hard to put into gear. i followed the instructions and had my mechinc look at it. so before i rip this pos out of my car i wanted to see if any body is where im at.. ooh and steeda said they cant do any thing b,c i put it in, no exchange,no nothing. need some help with this shifter.any tips on makeing it work nice and smoothed.:bigthumbsupand geting the short throws .... im looking at uprs shifter hurst:?:, and even roush. thanks guys
 

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If installed correctly, a short throw shifter will do exactly what it is intended to do. My TriAx is flawless. Sorry your results aren't as good.
 

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how long have you had it in? i love mine. you can adjust the bolt to make the throws shorter. If its hard to shift then its because its not broken in yet, its real stiff at first until you break it in.
 

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If installed correctly, a short throw shifter will do exactly what it is intended to do. My TriAx is flawless. Sorry your results aren't as good.
+1

When I installed mine, I compared the distance between throws and the Steeda is about half of the stock shifter. As others have noted, it is a bit stiff at first. I've had mine for 4+ years and couldn't be happier.
 

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how long have you had it in? i love mine. you can adjust the bolt to make the throws shorter. If its hard to shift then its because its not broken in yet, its real stiff at first until you break it in.
Mine has been on the car for 40k+ miles and still stiff, and even in gear, you can still move the shifter like it is in neutral. Is this an installation error (previous owner installed btw) or is this how it is supposed to be?
 

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Sounds to me like the clutch slave/master was not bled correctly. That will account for “hard shifting” every time.

I have a Tri-Ax, another car I drive a LOT has one and they are both flawless. If I could do it all over again I would get a MGW. But I would never take a Tri-Ax out to put one in. They are not so much better that its worth making the change.
 

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Sounds to me like the clutch slave/master was not bled correctly.
Do I have to take it all back apart to fix this or is it easier than that?

And is there supposed to be play in the shifter even when in gear?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
where is this bolt that you can adjust to make it shorter. and i just put in a new slave/master. bc the old one went in 3 day when the new clutch was in. i called spec up and they told me that i shouldent have any probs bc there clutch is exactly to spec as the oem..as for the shifter. its been in the car for about 1000miles id say. its not smoothed at all. im going to put it up on the lift today and gresse the carp out of it and see if that works
 

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Do I have to take it all back apart to fix this or is it easier than that?
It is supposed to bleed all by itself, but that is not always the case. There is a new vacuum tool that goes on the reservoir that is supposed to facilitate complete bleeding out there. I have not seen it yet but I would go looking for one of those. Maybe someone else will chime in about it.

Did you replace the slave cylinder while it was apart? Most consider it a must. You could have a bad one. If so the trans has to come out.

And is there supposed to be play in the shifter even when in gear?
How much "play"
 

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Did you replace the slave cylinder while it was apart? Most consider it a must. You could have a bad one. If so the trans has to come out.
The shifter was already in the car when I bought so I am not sure to be honest.


How much "play"
It is just like being in neutral. I can move it side to side all the way across..
 

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The shifter was already in the car when I bought so I am not sure to be honest.
Maybe I read wrong. Does the car have an aftermarket clutch?




It is just like being in neutral. I can move it side to side all the way across..
Oh no! That is Waaaaaaaay too much. I just measured mine and it has 9-10mm of play measured at the top of the knob.....with me providing some FORCE. It has ZERO freeplay.

Get that thing up in the air. It sounds like you have a loose or missing fastener or one of the bushings is blown out/missing. It should be easy to fix......aside from the getting it in the air part.:winks
 

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Maybe I read wrong. Does the car have an aftermarket clutch?

Oh no! That is Waaaaaaaay too much. I just measured mine and it has 9-10mm of play measured at the top of the knob.....with me providing some FORCE. It has ZERO freeplay.

Get that thing up in the air. It sounds like you have a loose or missing fastener or one of the bushings is blown out/missing. It should be easy to fix......aside from the getting it in the air part.:winks
Regarding the Clutch I am not sure. The previous owner did not specify, but I recently drove my buddies 2005 Mustang GT that has a stock clutch and it was WWAAAYY Different. I think it might to be honest.

and ya that is what I thought. Two people have drove my car other than me and they were tuning the car at the time, and they literally missed every shift they tried. It is near impossible to get in gear when actually trying to shift fast, daily driving it does great. And you wouldn't happen to have like some online instructions on how to do something like taking it apart? When it is apart, could I bleed that line that you said previously?
 

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And you wouldn't happen to have like some online instructions on how to do something like taking it apart?
Google is your friend.:winks
http://www.steeda.com/store/uploads/05-triax-1.pdf



When it is apart, could I bleed that line that you said previously?
It’s designed (badly:nono:) to be self bleeding when you repeatedly press the clutch. But sometimes that doesn’t work out so well. And when that doesn’t work out there is no “mechanism” built in to bleed like brakes for example.

You need to have Fords tools to do it "right" as far as I know

From the shop manual:


SECTION 308-00: Manual Transaxle/Transmission and Clutch — General Information
Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or equivalent


Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated. Make sure all bleed screws are tightened to specification.


Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).


Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.


Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.


Using a suitable bleeder kit and a vacuum pump, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.


Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.


Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools.


Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.


Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.


Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.


Install the reservoir cap.


Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation


I'd fix that shifter then see what its doing.:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
can some one answer my qustion please??????.. why is my shifter very clunkly and not smooth.. also i would like to know where the bolt is to shorten the throw. :bigthumbsup
 

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can some one answer my qustion please??????.. why is my shifter very clunkly and not smooth.. also i would like to know where the bolt is to shorten the throw. :bigthumbsup
So, you are calling it a POS and You say You followed the instuctions and had your mechanic look at it and are now asking where the the bolt to shorten the throw is. Hmmmmmm....Come on man, Let's take a step back, take big breath and lets do it right before you give up and but another !!! :nono:
 

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can some one answer my qustion please??????..
I'm pretty sure someone did. There is something wromng with it and it needs to be inspected.:winks
 

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can some one answer my qustion please??????.. why is my shifter very clunkly and not smooth.. also i would like to know where the bolt is to shorten the throw. :bigthumbsup
It looks like Sqidd has taken some time to give you some ideas.

The Steeda does not have a bolt to shorten the throw. The ratio is fixed. There are two bolts that can be adjusted but they are just stop bolts to avoid pushing the shifter too far forward or back.
 

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can some one answer my qustion please??????.. why is my shifter very clunkly and not smooth.. also i would like to know where the bolt is to shorten the throw. :bigthumbsup
Woah man. We have the same problem, so anything that sqidd has said applies to you too...

The stop bolt is in the instructions sqidd was so kind to show us. Go to the second page, half way down. Explains how to do everything.
 

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Google is your friend.:winks
http://www.steeda.com/store/uploads/05-triax-1.pdf

It’s designed (badly:nono:) to be self bleeding when you repeatedly press the clutch. But sometimes that doesn’t work out so well. And when that doesn’t work out there is no “mechanism” built in to bleed like brakes for example.

Thanks for the instructions!

and so repeatedly pressing the clutch might be a thing to try? or it might damage the car? or it won't do anything?

I am going home in about 10 days and I will probably lift it up and see what exactly is going on. It shifts perfectly as long as you are not having fun. It is impossible to power shift... Ill have to take a look at it now though
 
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