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Steering Column Issue after converting to Power Steering - Please Help!

5453 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Mustang Jim 99
Hello Everyone!

About a year ago I upgraded the manual steering in my Mustang '67 for a Power Steering, however (twice now) it has happened that the bolt that assembles the steering wheel column to the rest of the system breaks if I ever move the steering when the car is off (emergency cases for example to move/start it if the battery drained, etc.). I attach a diagram with the bolt highlighted.

The shop where I installed it suggested making another hole to have two bolts instead of one and adding some soldering, but I am not sure it sounds ideal. Is there something they are not telling me? (like those parts were supposed to be changed too when making the upgrade) Have anyone had this problem before? The first time it was quite scary as it broke and the steering wheel got loose once the car was in motion and I was lucky I was just getting to a red light so I was slowing down :s

Thanks a lot for your comments!



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Welcome to AFM!!

Moved to the classic tech section for better response..
Where did you get the PS system you installed? Was it a proper kit or snatched out of another car? Sounds like they cut off the splines at the end of the shaft. Then used a low grade bolt to take all the shear force.

It is always good procedure to have the car rolling anytime the wheel is turned.
Thanks a lot Driveway for your reply!

It was not what I thought, when the mechanic checked it, the bolt that broke the first time was intact, however the screws in the round rubber piece at the end of the column (I'm sorry I don't know the name in English) were all loose. I checked what you suggested and the splines were there. As you say, I guess the system cannot take all the shear force that the power steering imposes now, so I don't know if the adaptation was good or the shop just made a lousy job and lied saying it was the right kit.

Does anyone know where I can find the specs for the power steering kit I should have and how to check vs the one I have now?

Thanks a lot!


Most Power steering conversions require the Column tube to be cut (shortened) a specific amount depending on the vehicle.This is a steatement in one such unit.

Step 2:

""Measure the distance from the end of the steering column shaft to the column bell. Write down the distance, as this measurement must be maintained with the new Mustang power steering conversion kit column shaft. (In this example, the distance was 1-5/8 inches.)"'

then in step 21:

""21. Now, we have to cut the column tube to length. From the end of the Mustang steering column shaft, measure and mark the distance from the end to the column bell that was noted in Step 2 (our example was 1-5/8 inches). Then, measure the distance from the outside of the firewall to this mark on the shaft. The key here is to make the column tube just long enough to extend through the firewall for support, but also not interfere with the new rag joint. In our example, the distance came out to be 28-1/2 inches.""

See this link for additional information:

Mustang Borgeson Power Steering Conversion (1965-1966) Installation Instructions

Hope this helps.

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The car should be able to take steering with the engine off. Can you post some photos of your pump, gear box, column, and the joint? If your car was made right at the beginning of the '67 assembly run, is it possible you had one of the old steering shafts that went from the steering wheel straight into the gear box? That means no 'rag joint'.

Update us we can proceed.
Based on trusche7's comments about the rubber piece breaking, the rag joint failed. The bolts on both sides joining the coupling tore right through the rag joint. I had that happen to my car once when I turned the wheels with the engine off and the car was not moving. And it was a brand new rag joint!

Trusche7, all of the major mustang parts vendors sell them. They cost about $15 to $20. I was so bothered that mine failed that I took out the coupling and rag joint and replaced it with a solid coupling. It cost me $70, but I do have a much more solid feel in the steering wheel. It took 45 minutes to make the swap.

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