Ford Mustang Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've just started down the modification road on my car, and the brakes are already something I have my eye on. If I get up to about 110-110 mph and get on the brakes relatively hard, the car starts to shake by about the time I get down to 80 or 90. The car normaly does not shake at all, so I am nearly positive the brake rotors arent warped.

Is this normal behavior if your pushing the cars brakes pretty hard from that kind of speed? I mean I know you heat the brake rotors up significantly when sheding that kind of speed quickly, but I didnt know that that kind of heat could produced vibration and noise even though the rotors arent permanently warping. Do you think something is wrong? What should I be expecting? Also, would slotted rotors help significantly here?

I mean I definently push the cars brakes significantly, there is no doubt about that. I have warped stock brakes in a few of the cars I have had in the past just from doing alot of hard braking from high speeds, but the mustang seems to be handling it worse than any other car I can remember...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Vibration of any kind signals some warping.
Agree will stlwagon... They shouldn't be vibrating. Rotors need to be turned or replaced.:bigthumbsup
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,214 Posts
i concour on that theory
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Is it pretty typical to slam it up to 110 and then slam it down to 80, and do this quite frequently??? Why don't you just let off the gas and coast???? At high speeds I'm not slamming on the brakes unless I have to, and that doesn't happen too often. If you are one of these compulsive brakers, just carry a good supply of rotors, and brake pads, and order a set of brake ducts for cooling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Vibration of any kind signals some warping.
Yah, thats what I thought, but I never feel any vibration at all unless I've done something that could really heat up the brakes. Light braking or the first second of heavy braking from highway speeds or slower is perfectly smooth, and heavy braking from anything under 40 mph is smooth if I havent already been hard on the brakes. Its only once I really hit the brakes hard for more than a full second at high speeds that I start to feel the vibration. And then the vibration is present and obvious even under light braking until I give the brakes time to cool down. But once they do cool down, braking is perfectly smooth again. Can this appearance and disappearance of symptoms really be caused by warping of the rotors?

Is it pretty typical to slam it up to 110 and then slam it down to 80, and do this quite frequently??? Why don't you just let off the gas and coast???? At high speeds I'm not slamming on the brakes unless I have to, and that doesn't happen too often. If you are one of these compulsive brakers, just carry a good supply of rotors, and brake pads, and order a set of brake ducts for cooling.
Im not a compulsive braker, but I do have a healthy fear of the police and I live in the city. I dont do 85+ unless there is no traffic, but I dont feel like risking a 110+mph ticket just because I assumed there wouldnt be a cop shooting laser at 1 in the morning. So I try to minimize my time above 80 mph.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,452 Posts
Rotor Warpage

I have noticed the same thing with my car.
I notice no vibration when braking from 70, 80 mph.
When I brake from well over 100 mph I feel quite severe vibration, even when I just begin to brake. I assume it is because the rotors are warped and that becomes more noticeable when those rotors are turning at a higher rpm.
I do tend to brake harder at 110 or 130 mph because I am trying to cut speed more quickly than normal...afraid of radar or other motorists with cel phones who might turn me in.

Since I am rarely driving that high speed, and have no money to spare for new rotors or machining of my rotors, I just live with it.

Rotors can be machined, but after doing so, they are then thinner and more susceptible to overheating and warping again.

The answer for me (when I have spare cash) is to buy new takeoff rotors available I believe for about $43 a pair on the internet. As for rear rotors, I don't know...maybe just have them machined.

I have not had much luck, on cars other than Mustang, buying cheap foreign rotors as they have poor quality metal and seem to warp quickly.

I used to work at a Honda dealership...brake rotor warpage was a constant nightmare there...worse on FWD cars.

Others on here can comment on slotted or drilled rotors...there have been such threads and posts in the past. I forget what the advise was.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,250 Posts
If you're braking hard at those high speeds, and don't notice it under lighter braking, might be the ABS kicking in also.
 
G

·
This is my "THEORY"...that due to design or material the OEM rotors will warp when overheated. Once allowed to cool, they will reform for lack of a better term. I and Sqidd, even after being forewarned, have over heated mine on several occasions but they continue to work just fine after a cool down. Once warped you should be able to feel a pulsing through the brakes at almost any speed but you can't feel anything comparable to what you would imagine after speeds in excess of 140.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, so now on to the real question. Will slotted rotors actually provide a significant advantage in resisting warping?

2005-2010 Mustang GT Powerslot Front Rotors at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

Will those actually significantly reduce overheating and the warping that it causes? Or would something like this (DBA Cross-drilled/Slotted Rotors (2005+ GT Front Pair) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!) be worth the extra money?

Anybody have any real experience with the aftermarket rotors? Not looking to blow a ton of money, but definently looking for a better than stock replacement.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
696 Posts
Vibration of any kind signals some warping.
This, same thing happened to me.

Then I asked myself why I was getting up to that speed often enough to warrant using the brakes that hard and told myself I was dumb for it.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
Slotted wil run cooler and do a better job of slowing you down than the stockers do at any speed. If you don't notice anything at the normal speeds then it could as stated earlier be your ABS kicking in and at that speed would be more pronounced. Last time I blasted past 110 and decided to break hard I didn't have that issue but I could smell my breaks. If your concerned then pull the rotors and have them checked. If they are warped have them turned. It would be beter for them to be a bit thinner than to have them warped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,664 Posts
slotted rotors will be a nice step up from stock. Compliment them with a nice pad and you'll have sweet brakes :bigthumbsup
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top