Hi KJ,kj_cinci said:Hi,
Anybody know how much fuel our pumps can pump? I've been told allot and was hoping to use a Boost-A-Pump...
Was reading the Vortech install article in the latest MMFF and started to worry about my fuel supply system...
You're RIGHT! Me too did some more research and that is the only way to get a constantly good preassure! With pumps and FMUs you get no reliability!thump_rrr said:Hi KJ,
The Boost-A-Pump is the only way to go Period.
Here is a link to the Kennebell technical paper explaining the Boost-A-Pump theory of operation. It makes perfect sense. The long and short of it you're trying to maintain a 39psi fuel pressure differential at all times. That is the only way to get accurate fuel flow because all fuel calculations are based on fuel being delivered at a fixed pressure differential. The variable in the equation is that the manifold pressure keeps changing.
This is why I'll be going with KenneBell when I go blown in a year or 2 from now.
I've been waiting for KB to finally put out the 2005 product and it is now installed in a few test mules and I hear it is a sweet reliable system.thump_rrr said:Hi KJ,
The Boost-A-Pump is the only way to go Period.
Here is a link to the Kennebell technical paper explaining the Boost-A-Pump theory of operation. It makes perfect sense. The long and short of it you're trying to maintain a 39psi fuel pressure differential at all times. That is the only way to get accurate fuel flow because all fuel calculations are based on fuel being delivered at a fixed pressure differential. The variable in the equation is that the manifold pressure keeps changing.
This is why I'll be going with KenneBell when I go blown in a year or 2 from now.
I just got a "heart on"R3dF1r3 said:I've been waiting for KB to finally put out the 2005 product and it is now installed in a few test mules and I hear it is a sweet reliable system.
Here is a test mule turning a 11.31 ET on 2.4KB @ 11psi boost (stock motor, LCA's, LT headers, Hoosier drag radials on stock 17" Bullitts, cntrfrc clutch, 472rwhp) with bad launching.
http://www.pages.drexel.edu/~jl458/2005_GT_Stang.wmv
I would want about 450rwhp/ 9psi or less on my stock motor and be very content.
KB 2.4L (The same exact unit as the 03-04 Cobra Competition Model)
Intercooled
Cold Air Intake
Mass Air Meter
Handheld Tuner- Still unsure which one will be available with the kit.
Injectors
Boost-A-Pump
The Current MSRP Price is $5499.
I feel it will be a very good product and the other S/C suppliers are still having many issues out there and until I see reliability, I am waiting.
Which is why I am in no hurry to S/C mine. I don't race so the existing ~315 ponies rw are fun for now. I think alot of kits have tune, BAP, MAF, lean, belt slippage, and detonation issues atm. I hear even a Saleen OE tune has a 5800rpm limiter due to running out of fuel issues.kj_cinci said:Yup Yup!
Champion Ford here in greater Cinci has a motor with a snapped rod. Boss 330 down in Florida hav a BUNCH (I think 7!!!) busted, used to be blown S197 motors! Don't know how many VT, MP etc. have lined up for rebuilds!
One word of advice, if you're gonna blow it, first build it!
You might have a chance with the under 5 PSI, under 400 HP versions, or a uncooled centrifugal unit 'stock' boost will go easier on the block... seems that 400 RWHP line was a good guess for the short block!
A good shortblock is about $4K so just think 10K for the SC upgrade...!!:eyebulge:
I thought the BAP was an automated system hooked to your tune?psfracer said:I went with the BAP, installed the dial adjustment box in the center console right by the N20 arming switch....so its hidden. I will just dial it up the same time I arm the n20 system. Everything else is right by the stock pump under the rear seat...took like 30 minutes to install. I also closed the loop to the vacum switch so it will be running full time. With the dial adjustment, I can just have it on 0 when driving back and forth to work.
The power cord is the arming switch for the zex nitrous kit I have. Once armed, all I have to do is floor it and its on, because the Zex system goes off of the TPS. Went with this instead of the toggle because I like it hidden. The cord coming from the dial adjustment box goes back to the Boost A Pump. The Boost A Pump is bascially just wired in series with the + wire to the stock pump, a ground, and a vacum activation switch (NA or Nitrous). KB makes another kit which uses a boost switch for activation if your supercharged or have a turbo. I didn't put on the vacum switch because I would just rather have it on full time, since its adjustable anyway.kj_cinci said:I thought the BAP was an automated system hooked to your tune?
Maybe it's differant with the NOS?
What's that power cord you have from your box?
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