suspension shopping

You may be able to get a better, cheaper set up with konis and steeda springs. I've got a 15% off coupon for autoanything.com I can give you if you want. They carry the konis.

Autoanything also has the pro system plus

I had koni on my 2002 BMW 540 and they were excellent. Very sporty and comfy ride.

If you want new strut mounts you'll need new dampers. I wouldn't change the fronts without doing the backs too.

Steeda Pro-Action (actually a Tokico piece IIRC), Koni str.t, something like that would do you just fine.

csamsh said:

If you want new strut mounts you'll need new dampers. I wouldn't change the fronts without doing the backs too.

Steeda Pro-Action (actually a Tokico piece IIRC), Koni str.t, something like that would do you just fine.

Click to expand...

The pro system comes with shocks and struts.

i would suggest going with koni str.t struts and shocks. steeda ultra light springs, gt500 mounts, j&m adj panhard bar, and steeda uca. u dont really need relocation brackets or alignment bolts unless u are tracking or lowering the car more then 2" inches

Generally, going with one companies products will yield better results. The parts are intended to perform a certain way and when you start to piece them together then they may have fitment issues.

Here is a video that we did with MM&FF, we can take an ordinary suspension and make it that much better. Check out the video below...

Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords' Steeda Suspension Install And - YouTube

We can definitely get you a great price and the suspension you are seeking with your set budget of $1500.00.

Send me an email at [email protected] and we can provide you pricing and start the process.

Best Regards,

TJ

vSPARXv said:

i would suggest going with koni str.t struts and shocks. steeda ultra light springs, gt500 mounts, j&m adj panhard bar, and steeda uca. u dont really need relocation brackets or alignment bolts unless u are tracking or lowering the car more then 2" inches

Click to expand...

Any amount an S197 is lowered, past .75", will substantially throw the geometry of the rear LCA off.

The LCA Relocation brackets are a crucial part of the S197 Rear Suspension when lowering the car, this is why you see so many manufacturers making them these days.

Rather than saying "you don't need them if not tracking or lower than 2" I would say "You will want them anytime you lower the car, if you plan on going WOT and want maximum traction"

:bigthumbsup

Stewarts2008, like I said on MM, and similar to what TJ is saying, try and stick with one company for as many parts as you can. Also, ensure that you are getting the correct components to match your goals for the car. If you are not road racing the car competitively, you will have no need for springs rated more than 175-180lbs up front and no more than 170lbs out back. I also don't really believe much in you needing to upgrade the rear sway bar, if you are not competing with the car. The stock sway bars on the 2011+ are pretty decent.

stewarts2008 said:

Ok, I have been researching suspension set ups and want to run this by some of you that obviously know more than I do. Here is what im looking at:

Eibach Pro system plus
Eibach Mustang Pro-System-Plus (11-13 GT/V6) 35125.680 - Free Shipping!

J&M Aluminum adjustable Panhard
J&M Mustang Adjustable Panhard Rod (2005-2013 All) 23737 - Free Shipping!

gt500 strut mounts
Ford Racing Mustang GT500 Style Strut Mount Upgrade (05-13 All) M-18183-C - Free Shipping!

Eibach Alignment bolts
Eibach Mustang Pro-Alignment Camber Adjustment Bolts (05-13 All) 5.81260K - Free Shipping!

BMR LCA Relocate brackets
BMR Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Hammertone Finish (05-13 All) CAB005H - Free Shipping!

Steeda UCAs
Steeda Adjustable Street Upper Control Arm (11-13 Mustang) 555-4112 - Free Shipping!

Will my non adjustable J&M LCAs work with the relocation brackets ok?
Is there any crucial component im missing?
How would I adjust pinion angle on my aftermarket driveshaft?
Will most shops know how to use everything to make appropriate alignment?
Should I pick 1 company's products, or is it ok to mix and match like this?

Total is $1,442.84 after discount. I want to stay right at the $1500 mark.

Click to expand...

Here's what I used on my car, and it works very well. It's in your general price range without the tubular k-member.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/upr-products/359130-uprs-s197-handling-package.html

OP,

It's not a bad idea to try and stick with one company, like everyone already mentioned. That being said, I don't see you having any issues with the parts you've picked out so far. Except, you may want some adjustable LCA's to go with your relocation brackets, to get the perfect pinion angle.

Also, don't forget that we do Price Match at AM! If you find any publicly advertised prices from one of our competitors lower than ours, we'll be able to Price Match it, so you get the best pricing possible! Just give one of our Mustang Experts a call @ 866.727.1266 and they'll be able to hook you up with any Price Matching you need.

Let me know if there's anything else that I can do!

Shane

Just to piggy back onto the OPs question, I just did my drop and am pleased with the results, but what else do I need to consider? I just did pro action dampers and steeda sport springs + panhard. Should I immediately be looking onto LCAs or UCA? If so, what kind of performance improvement and I seeking out of either/both? Thanks

jrh0341 said:

Just to piggy back onto the OPs question, I just did my drop and am pleased with the results, but what else do I need to consider? I just did pro action dampers and steeda sport springs + panhard. Should I immediately be looking onto LCAs or UCA? If so, what kind of performance improvement and I seeking out of either/both? Thanks

Click to expand...

Really, it just depends on what your goal is.

What is your goal for the car?

BMR Tech said:

Really, it just depends on what your goal is.

What is your goal for the car?

Click to expand...

Its first and foremost a daily driver. I still want improved handling, but having lowered with the sport springs and pro actions, the handling improvement there is enough to keep me satisfied. Since doing the drop I haven't found myself criticizing the handling or hitting any corner I wish I could take harder.

If I was going to try and tweak any more performance out of her right now, I'd lean towards straight line speed. I figure I'm always up for a little more pushed back into the seat feeling.

One thing I am noticing now is, while before, the car would nose dive on braking, now it stays flat, but after a second the car kind of pulls back and inch. Kind of like the body doesn't quite stock as quickly as the wheels, and then springs back. Wondering if this is normal.

Improved Steering Feedback, more NVH with new Suspension

OK - before someone says "well DUH...", I know this is all logical enough. Just curious what others are noticing:

With the new suspension (Koni Yellows, Steeda Sports, 2011+ Steeda HD Mounts - soon UMI PHB) I'm noticing A LOT more "feedback" of road surface through the wheel. I also notice a little more in-cabin road noise. I know (from personal, past experience) that TIRES are probably the biggest factor in road noise transfer (stock BBP P-Zeros for now).

Still, I'm wondering what the rest of you out there have noticed, post suspension changes (shocks, springs, PHB, LCA, UCA, mounts, whatever?).

A little more steering feedback (of road surface) isn't a bad thing (IMO) - just a bit surprising how much difference there is. My Konis are set fairly stiff now - still "playing" with setting.

Koni yellows + steeda Sports Springs + steeda camber/caster plates + gt500 mounts for the polyurethane isolators = driving a car on rails end of story. Is there better? yea but for more money. with that setup, I do get more "feedback" from the crappy illinois road surface No increase in noise at all though. That being said it is pathetic here in Illinois. however if you want to save money and don't need the adjustability of the koni yellows get the strt. Save your money bc that's probably all you will need. Go from there. Yes your pinion angle will change but with a 1 inch or so drop, who cares its not enough to cause issues at all at least for me.

jrh0341 said:

Just to piggy back onto the OPs question, I just did my drop and am pleased with the results, but what else do I need to consider? I just did pro action dampers and steeda sport springs + panhard. Should I immediately be looking onto LCAs or UCA? If so, what kind of performance improvement and I seeking out of either/both? Thanks

Click to expand...

As a person who performed these mods at separate times, I can tell you from personal experience that upgrading your control arms makes a huge improvement in handling & stability, AND swaybars make a big difference as well. It should be noted that although I recommend control arm upgrades on S197 Mustangs basically as soon as you get the car home from the dealership :winks the control arms add a little bit of NVH, whereas the upgraded swaybars don't notably affect NVH.


Recommended control arms:
2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT V6 Chrome Moly Street Upper & Lower Control Arm Package - UPR Products

Swaybars:
2011-2012 Ford Mustang Anti-Roll Sway Bar Kit 35125.320 - UPR Products

Ended up ordering:


BMR-SP009 – Lowering Springs

BMR-PHR006 – Adjustable Panhard

BMR-FC001 – Camber Bolts

BMR-CAB005 – LCA Relocation Brackets

GT500 Upper Strut Mounts

BMR-UTCA032 – Adjustable Upper Control Arm (2011+)

BMR-UCM002 – Upper Control Arm Mount (2011+)

Kon-8250 1008 – Koni Rear Shocks – STR.T

Kon – 8750 1030 – Koni Front Struts – STR.T


Done deal.