Maxx, I was watching one of those car shows on Spike TV on Saturdays a couple of weeks ago and they did a dyno test using standard lubricnats (engine/trans/rear end) then ran a second test after changing all lubricnats to a synthetic (the purple one, don't remember the name) Amazingly they had about 10 HP more (if memory serves). So it looks like the stuff really does reduce friction significantly. But to get that kind of advantage you would have to replace all your lubricants not just the engine, but since it really looks like the stuff works, even only changing your engine oil should be some advantage.
Synthetic advantages.
My car has about 105k miles on it and it's due for another oil change. If I were to swap over to synthetic, would I be in any advantage? I was told by one person that it wouldn't help me out at all since I have high mileage, but I thought that a high mileage car would take a liking to some extra care like that..?
What would my advantages be and would it be worth the extra money. If so, what oil do you suggest?
96 gt
What would my advantages be and would it be worth the extra money. If so, what oil do you suggest?
96 gt
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The oil your reffering to is Royal Purple.Pyrat said:Maxx, I was watching one of those car shows on Spike TV on Saturdays a couple of weeks ago and they did a dyno test using standard lubricnats (engine/trans/rear end) then ran a second test after changing all lubricnats to a synthetic (the purple one, don't remember the name) Amazingly they had about 10 HP more (if memory serves). So it looks like the stuff really does reduce friction significantly. But to get that kind of advantage you would have to replace all your lubricants not just the engine, but since it really looks like the stuff works, even only changing your engine oil should be some advantage.
My mother has a mint :worship93 Cobra (Red w/ Grey leather 1 of 1007 w/ that combo) that she drives daily and it has had nothing but Castrol Full synthetic since she bought it (roughly 1,200 miles now has 105,000 miles). When she had it at the Ford dealership for a tuneup they done a compression & leakdown test on the motor and said it was very close to what a new engine was when it left the factory. The Cobra is never hot rodded so it is in great shape. I run Mobil 1 & Castrol synthetics in my 97 GT 5spd/ 00 Tahoe/ 05 Cobalt SS Supercharged and I have never had a problem. Most new cars (Cobra/Viper/Cobalt SS/ect.) has synthetics installed at the factory so that should tell you something.
Most mechanics I've talked to do not suggest switching to synthetic if your car has been running dino oil for more than 50K miles. Most synthetics have detergents which would eat at the crud inside the engine, which could cause problems if a large piece gets loose (oil pathway blockage is a risk). Also, that dino oil build up prevents leaks from the gaskets, so if you switch you might see a leak or two once the cleaning properties of the syn take effect. If you do switch I've heard of others using something like seafoam or another distillate product in the crankcase to clean the engine out prior to switching. I thought about switching my wife's high mileage Lexus over to synthetic, but after reading up on the hazards I decided against it.
Before I put Royal Purple in my stang I was running 17`s in the 1/4 ! and look at me NOW !:evillol:
I was wondering the valitity and then realized you said Horsepower TV, where those fvcktards always get 10 rwhp for everything. Flowmaster mufflers, oils, etc. They are a bunch of toolbags that have nice cars, but put poor setups on their cars because of their sponsors.Pyrat said:Maxx, I was watching one of those car shows on Spike TV on Saturdays a couple of weeks ago and they did a dyno test using standard lubricnats (engine/trans/rear end) then ran a second test after changing all lubricnats to a synthetic (the purple one, don't remember the name) Amazingly they had about 10 HP more (if memory serves). .
I have yet to see anyone get a 10 rwhp dyno improvement by using all RP products.
Good advice. I normally fray my customers that bring their vehicles in that have high miles from getting synthetics. Now not all of them will be bad. I normally check their service history, ask them how often they changed the oil, etc. If I feel they can benefit from it and they have maintained the vehicle, I will recommend it. However I always remind them irregardless if I recommend it, or they are persistent that it might create oil leaks. I even put that statement into the service ticket and invoice.Most mechanics I've talked to do not suggest switching to synthetic if your car has been running dino oil for more than 50K miles. Most synthetics have detergents which would eat at the crud inside the engine, which could cause problems if a large piece gets loose (oil pathway blockage is a risk). Also, that dino oil build up prevents leaks from the gaskets, so if you switch you might see a leak or two once the cleaning properties of the syn take effect. If you do switch I've heard of others using something like seafoam or another distillate product in the crankcase to clean the engine out prior to switching. I thought about switching my wife's high mileage Lexus over to synthetic, but after reading up on the hazards I decided against it.
So you guys are saying that switching to synthetic will cause leaks in the gaskets after dino oil has been run in the engine for a long time??? I say it's more like the synthetic reveals the oil leaks that the dino oil has been hiding. A leak is a weakness in a gasket that's about to give way so hiding the problem only propagates more problems. As for the sludge being broken loose being bad also??? There again I have to disagree. What if you have sludge building up and choking down oil flow in say a crank or rod journal?? I would want that sludge removed so I don't spin or wipe a bearing. I have run synthetics in every vehicle I have owned since 1997 without a single oil related problem to any component of any vehicle. I noticed when I switched over to synthetic in our Mustang that we picked up 2 MPG, the same result held over to the Explorer. That to me shows that the internal friction inside the engine is reduced and if the friction is reduced then power must also be freed up since friction is the major force that an engine must overcome to rotate and power as referred to in the automotive world is nothing more than rotational force. I say go ahead and switch, if you encounter problems after the switch then they are most likely problems that ad their beginnings when you were using dino oil.
You are not comprehending and contradicting yourself.
First, I said it will create leaks. Not cause them, which is correct as well because the detergents in a synthetic, which is not in a dino oil will wash the waxes away from the gaskets caused by the dino oil. So technically yes synthetic oil can cause leaks as its detergents breakdown the waxes that were built up on the gaskets from dino oil.
As for the sludge, I didn't comment on it. I agree sludge is a bad thing. I have seen several vehicles with high mileage develop leaks from swtiching to synthetic oil. I guess being in the auto industry you tend to see more than the average enthusiast.
First, I said it will create leaks. Not cause them, which is correct as well because the detergents in a synthetic, which is not in a dino oil will wash the waxes away from the gaskets caused by the dino oil. So technically yes synthetic oil can cause leaks as its detergents breakdown the waxes that were built up on the gaskets from dino oil.
As for the sludge, I didn't comment on it. I agree sludge is a bad thing. I have seen several vehicles with high mileage develop leaks from swtiching to synthetic oil. I guess being in the auto industry you tend to see more than the average enthusiast.
Bridge4dbridge4d said:Most mechanics I've talked to do not suggest switching to synthetic if your car has been running dino oil for more than 50K miles. Most synthetics have detergents which would eat at the crud inside the engine, which could cause problems if a large piece gets loose (oil pathway blockage is a risk). Also, that dino oil build up prevents leaks from the gaskets, so if you switch you might see a leak or two once the cleaning properties of the syn take effect. If you do switch I've heard of others using something like seafoam or another distillate product in the crankcase to clean the engine out prior to switching. I thought about switching my wife's high mileage Lexus over to synthetic, but after reading up on the hazards I decided against it.
Nice input, I totally agree with you.
For U guys who doubt that:
Do you think that those cleaning detergents (see mobil1 commercial) are free?
They aren't - that's why the cheaper mineral oils don't have them. If you now start "cleaning" your motor with those substances, some very old carbonized layers of oil will free up and if they were stuck between the oil pump and what ever bearing, they WILL GET into the bearing.
Bearing damage or excessive bearing wear will result.
Now this problem we're talking about, thats on a car after having dino oil in it for a long time... right? Now, how long is a long time? I ask because I bought my 2004 with about 8k miles on it, and is due for an oil change in about 2k more miles, and I was planning on putting Synthetic in it, but im not sure what's been put it in previously. Since the miles are so low, it wouldn't make a differance, correct?
2004, 8K Miles, that's not even a break in :eyepoppin (mine's got 106K!)xxkazp3rxx said:Now this problem we're talking about, thats on a car after having dino oil in it for a long time... right? Now, how long is a long time? I ask because I bought my 2004 with about 8k miles on it, and is due for an oil change in about 2k more miles, and I was planning on putting Synthetic in it, but im not sure what's been put it in previously. Since the miles are so low, it wouldn't make a differance, correct?
No worries, if you change to synthetic you will not have the slightest problem.
An advice: Stick with the same brand and type of oil rather than changing it every time. I personaly like the Mobil1 and the Motorcraft oil filters.
yeah.. I was putting in Castrol Synthetic blend in my 05 v6.. I know a lot of people that use the mobil 1.. ehh I have a month or so to think about it if not more.. thanks.. haha..
oh and I know my car isn't NEAR high miles yet... just wondering the effects of switching period, thats all.
oh and I know my car isn't NEAR high miles yet... just wondering the effects of switching period, thats all.
So if the detergents wash away the waxes that are there because of dino oil and an oil leak starts the synthetic caused the leak?? I'm not following that logic. The synthetic didn't cause the breakdown in the gasket, it revealed the faulty gasket. Every gasket, at least we all hope, forms a tight seal when the engine is put together at the factory. You're saying in high milage engines you want to rely on this wax coating that's been deposited by dino oil for however long to keep oil in the engine. That really just does not sound like a good idea from an end user and engineering standpoint.
The prob is that those carbon deposits really start building up after +50K Miles, if for this amount of time only cheap oil has been used.BlueStreak03 said:So if the detergents wash away the waxes that are there because of dino oil and an oil leak starts the synthetic caused the leak?? I'm not following that logic. The synthetic didn't cause the breakdown in the gasket, it revealed the faulty gasket. Every gasket, at least we all hope, forms a tight seal when the engine is put together at the factory. You're saying in high milage engines you want to rely on this wax coating that's been deposited by dino oil for however long to keep oil in the engine. That really just does not sound like a good idea from an end user and engineering standpoint.
If you suddenly change the oil to a full sytnthetic oil with cleaning detertgents (Mobil1), it starts removing deposits -> some of them end up in the bearings. (the problem is that these deposits don't only contain sluggish old oil, they also contain very hard carbon particles.
If you stick with the cheap oil the deposits stay there, they might increase a little in thickness, but they definitely don't break down. This means that all the carbon deposits stay somewhat controlled in your oil passages.
The reason why the gasket failed is for me not understandable. I would need to have a look at it to give you the correct answer.
Castrol Syntec
I just switched to Castrol Syntec from the oil Ford uses.27000mi (No more dealership). Should I change out every 3000mi or do they go further. I was also thinking about using Royal Purple in the trany & rearend. Can I run it strait on the rear end or do I have to add a friction adative(heard this somewere)? Thanks, Ron
I just switched to Castrol Syntec from the oil Ford uses.27000mi (No more dealership). Should I change out every 3000mi or do they go further. I was also thinking about using Royal Purple in the trany & rearend. Can I run it strait on the rear end or do I have to add a friction adative(heard this somewere)? Thanks, Ron
I try to stay right around 4K between changes. I use full synthetic Castrol with a Mobil 1 filter. I swtitched over to a synthetic tranny lube and somehow managed to rip 5th out of the tranny. The Ford tech blamed it on the synthetic lube, so I would look hard into that before doing it. Synthetic in the rear end should be just fine though.
Perhaps its 'cause the synthetic tranny lube is so frictionless that the synchros have trouble grabbing the gear.BlueStreak03 said:I swtitched over to a synthetic tranny lube and somehow managed to rip 5th out of the tranny. The Ford tech blamed it on the synthetic lube,
I always thought friction was the enemy and we did everything we could to eliminate it.
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