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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm not really sure if the trans is gone or if its the clutch setup..At first it started with having to rev up the rpms pretty high to get it going otherwise it would just drag. I did experience some grinding in second but not in any other gear also had a clutch burning smell. Now it doesn't move at all the parking brake is not working so I leave it in gear but now it just rolls. Any idea's?
 

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That sounds like the clutch more than the transmission.
 

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In my 91 lx i couldn't get into 2nd,3rd without really slamming it in. I had the clutch replced a long time ago with some cheap brand. I did h/c/i and a ton of other mods. I bought a better clutch and got a trans out of a LX 5.0 in a junkyard for 90$..Put the clutch in and the trans everything works really well..good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok so here my dilema then if its just the clutch and I have it replaced I'm probably going to go with stock parts. I plan on adding hci..should the stock clutch and flywheel be okay. I really don't plan on doing any other mods besides a s/c way later on down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you guys think. Some of problems could stem from the adjuster? Before all these issues occured I kind of fiddle with the adjuster(really had no idea what I was doing)
 

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What kind of adjuster is in the car and what year is it? if the car is equipped with a self adjusting cable lift the clutch pedal up and it should click.
If you plan on adding more power an aftermarket clutch should be considered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it's a 86 and not sure what type it is. I bought it from someone who had no idea about the car. there is a turn style adjuster inside the engine compartment
 

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EagleAuto has you pointed in the right direction (no surprise there...he is a good "go to" guy for tech help :bigthumbsup). It does sound alot like clutch, or burnt clutch to be exact. :hihi:

You say you fiddled with the adjuster? What did you do?

First thing I would do BEFORE removing the transmission, is remove the clutch fork cover off the side of the bell housing and take a look up in the bell housing. See if you can determine how much gap is between the face of the throw out bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate when the pedal is up at the rest position. General rule of thumb is to have between 1/8" and 1/4" max. It should not be constantly riding the fingers. Based on your first post where you stated that you had to really rev the engine to get going, my guess is the bearing is riding on the fingers right now and probably depressing the fingers slightly which would cause the clutch to slip (and burn and smell). A slipping clutch would require higher rpm's to get the car moving and would cause the disc to get overheated (burn and smell).

If I am right, you really should replace the clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced and then set the T/O bearing as I stated above and you should be good to go. :bigthumbsup

The T5 is rated around 250 - 300ft/lbs depending on if it's a World Class or not and should be fine behind your mods. Once you go S/C, you will need to do something different for a transmission as that won't live long behind that kind of an upgrade.
The biggest issue with the T5 is the 3rd gear syncro. As long as you are not constantly power shifting 2nd to 3rd, you should be fine. :bigthumbsup




Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks very detailed and informational..One other thing this is suppose to be a new clutch.Would this make a difference in having to change it? Thanks again for the info..I will let you know what happens
 
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