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Discussion Starter #1
Is there supposed to be any play in the clutch fork left to right? Not in and out, but should it be able move like the hands on a clock any?
 

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It’s going to move some, but it shouldn’t have a large swath. How much movement are we talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It’s going to move some, but it shouldn’t have a large swath. How much movement are we talking about?
If it has tension on it, it means your throwout bearing is riding on the PP. Not good.
I have max motors quadrant, cable, and firewall adjuster. I replaced the oem stuff because the cable had stretched. I could hear the TOB rattling. It’s new as well as the clutch.
The problem is after the motor is up to temp it won’t shift from neutral to gear. If the car is rolling it will shift. If I shut the motor off it will go into gear. If I shift into first while rolling to a stop it’ll go and shift properly as long as I don’t go to neutral and then try to go back into gear. When the motor is cold it doesn’t get stuck in neutral. The clutch isn’t disengaging all the way I’m assuming.
I’ve adjusted the cable until I’m blue in the face. As per the mfg instructions, looser, tighter, etc.
Right now there is no free play in or out on the clutch fork (like you were pressing the clutch) but it will move side to side. It won’t move side to side when the clutch is in though.
I wonder if something broke when the oem cable was loose?
 

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The movement in the video doesn't look excessive to me. I think you are correct that it's not fully disengaging the clutch when the pedal is depressed.

You say the TOB and clutch are new. Did you install them? Was it working properly right after the install? Are you sure the clutch disc is facing in the correct position and not flipped in the wrong direction?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah they’re “new” about a year old maybe but I didn’t do the install. It was shifting after the new clutch but one day I started to hear the tob making noise and it wasn’t wanting to go into gear. So I changed the quadrant and cable but it still has trouble going into gear if the motor is warm. The TOB noise is gone though. Just now I loosened the tension to where there was a little play (not much) in and out on fork. It shifted well until it got up to temp and then it was the same sht.
 

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I don’t think you have a cable issue. You’re going to wind up pulling the box and doing some investigating. You already know the TOB is noisy, so there’s your first clue...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don’t think you have a cable issue. You’re going to wind up pulling the box and doing some investigating. You already know the TOB is noisy, so there’s your first clue...
It’s not noisy now though. The noise actually went away when I band-aided the clutch cable by taking the slack out with zip ties.
Not saying it’s not the TOB but I think the noise it was making was because the cable was loose.
 

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I suppose the cable could be poorly designed and the sheath/housing could be compressing when under heavy load. This could interfere with disengagement and cause those symptoms.

Was it also having the disengagement issues on the original OEM cable you replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I suppose the cable could be poorly designed and the sheath/housing could be compressing when under heavy load. This could interfere with disengagement and cause those symptoms.

Was it also having the disengagement issues on the original OEM cable you replaced?
Yeah, the TOB was rattling at idle it wouldn’t go into gear so I replaced the cable. The TOB no longer rattles but it still won’t go into gear all the time.
 

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Might not be the TOB or the fork itself. It might be the pivot point the forks works off of. Have you checked to make sure the pivot part is solid? Not sure how your year/model is set up but this picture of a 1969 Mustang 351W bellhousing/fork shows the part that is critical.
I put a Lakewood scattershield on my Torino Cobra's 429SCJ back in 75 and back then we didn't have the bolt quality we do now. The bracket bolts broke on me and the fork worked somewhat, but only enough to get me home to figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It’s hard to get a good look in there.
The TOB and clutch are new. I think maybe when the cable stretched and the TOB was rattling it got messed up some how. When the clutch was first installed it did not have this problem. I don’t hear any rattling anymore but it won’t go in to gear from neutral once the motor is warm. Once I was able to rev the motor some and it went into gear. If I don’t take it out of first when stopped I can take off and shift normally. It shifts ok once it’s moving.
When the motor is cold I can shift from neutral at a stop. “Double clutching” doesn’t seem to help much. If I turn the motor off I can put it in gear.
I wish I had a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Might not be the TOB or the fork itself. It might be the pivot point the forks works off of. Have you checked to make sure the pivot part is solid? Not sure how your year/model is set up but this picture of a 1969 Mustang 351W bellhousing/fork shows the part that is critical.
I put a Lakewood scattershield on my Torino Cobra's 429SCJ back in 75 and back then we didn't have the bolt quality we do now. The bracket bolts broke on me and the fork worked somewhat, but only enough to get me home to figure it out.
What would I need to buy remedy the pivot part if it
I reread this post and I don't see it anywhere on just what we are working on here? Year, engine, trans type, etc?
‘95 Mustang GT T5.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What type of pivot is it, ball or metal clip?
Ball

 

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Looking at the picture and watching the video, could the fork be bent? That would change it completely? Or maybe the pivot ball has worn thru the fork on the other side. That would also change how it works properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looking at the picture and watching the video, could the fork be bent? That would change it completely? Or maybe the pivot ball has worn thru the fork on the other side. That would also change how it works properly.
I wonder why it shifts it well before it’s up to operating temp?
 
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