I had the same question, but I couldn’t find the answer anywhere-- so I figured it out. It's pretty simple overall. You need to remove the center console top plate, then the side panels adjacent to the center column, then the face plate has full access.
1. Open center console- remove 2 Phillips screws located in the back by the hinge.
2. Gently wiggle and the top plate for the entire center console will come up. If you have a manual, you will need to remove the shifter knob (adjustable wrench from under the knob will loosen the lock-nut, then unscrew the knob.
3. Gently maneuver the top plate off. It's not an exact science, but it does take a little figuring out to remove over the E-brake without breaking the piece.
4. With top plate removed, you can now access the 2 side panels- one on the drivers and one on passengers side. These are the panels which wrap over the face plate of the stock stereo assembly. These simply can be gently popped off. You should grasp the front of the panel and pull gently towards the rear of the car. NOT sideways- you will break the mounting clips if you do this. Pull straight back.
5. With side panels out of the way, you will see 3 bolts on either side of the head unit that hold the final plastic trim ring (the houses the cabin temperature controls, etc...) Remove all 6 bolts (I think they're 3/8")
6. You need to remove the wiring assemblies from the face plate. You will see the plate only pulls out about 1-2" with the wiring harnesses still attached. You need to use a small (#3) flat screwdriver or something similar to depress the locking mechanisms on each wiring harness clip. I believe, depending on which accessories you have, there will be a total of 5 harnesses. I suggest using masking tape to label each one, and where it goes as you remove them one by one.
Step 6 is the single most challenging step on this project. Not terribly complicated by any means, but you need to examine each harness to determine where the little plastic tab you need to depress is located. It was different for all 5 connectors on my car. Be patient, you don’t want to break a connector. (The connector for the heat/cool knob has a funky gray plastic strap that runs over the back of the harness. This strap actually flips downward, and pivots. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the strap, starting at the back of the harness (towards the front of the car)
7. With trim rings and wiring assemblies removed, you now have full access to your stereo. 4 bolts (same size that held on the accessory trim ring) hold the factory unit in place., Remove these, and you can remove your head unit. Again, be careful to gently remove the connections from the back of the unit. You don’t have much room to pull it out, but you can get your hands back in there to remove the connections and then pull the system completely out.
Sorry for no pics- I didn’t take any pics as I was working on this project, but if you have any questions, just leave me a message.
Thanks for the instructions. I just bought an '08 GT and I'm transferring my pioneer, sirius pioneer addon, and prioneer ipod addon to this car. I will be doing this in the next few days. I will document it and add photos for you.
Actually, if you look at the tacked thread in this section titled Idiot's Guide to Ipod AUX adaptor you will find a link to a site that shows how to take the radio out.
It doesn't go through all the steps, like what adapters you need and what not, but it is a good basic instruction set with photos!
The main thing you will want on your new stereo is the Radio Shack Model: 7805, Catalog #: 276-1770, voltage regulator so that you do not hear the annoying thump when your remote turn on powers up those factory door subs. On the other hand, if you going with another amp for the door subs and changing out the door subs, this is a moot point.
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, reviews, engine swaps, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!