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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A lot of you drive automatic transmissions. They vary from Manuals in a few different ways. Automatics allow for easier operation as far as driver awarness. Just put it in drive and go. Also, and most noticable, if you look under the car, you will see a drain pan where on a manual you would just have a drain plug. This is due to the lack of filter in the bottom.

Automatic Transmission:

Tools Required:
1/4" ratchet with socket to fit the drain pan bolts,
Transmission filter kit from parts store (contains filter and gasket)
Drain pain to catch transmission fluid.
Spray adhesive helps, but not nessecary

Jack up the car to where you can reach the transmission pan easily but have room to move. Put Jackstands under the car in case the jack falls ( i can never stress this enough.) Use the 1/4" ratchet to break all the bolts free. just get the initial break, dont take them out yet. Then starting with one corner, (towards the rear, or lower side of the vehicle) take out the bolts on the corner... then start loosening the bolts leading away from there on both sides, but do not take them out. The initial plan is to drop one corner of the pan to let the fluid drain, so its easier to manage. some pans may take a little tug on the corner to break free but make sure you have enough bolts free and loose enough.. you do not want to bend the pan... most times the weight of the fluid will do it by itself. Let as much fluid drain out as you can and slowly loosen the other bolts to drop the remaining bit... once you can safely drop the pan all the way out, locate the filter up where the pan use to be.. some just pull out, (they have an o-ring or sleeve on them) some screw in and out, and some have retaining clips. use the new one for a reference if you cant see.
Crawl out from under the vehicle and find a table where you can work easily. Use a gasket scraper and remove all the previous traces of gasket material... Use a clean rag to wipe all all the excess gasket bits and grease that can cause leaks. Check the bottom of the pan, if there isn't a magnet, its a good idea to put a stick magnet (check clearance on tranny) to catch metal shavings that go through the pan.. this can lengthen the time between filter changes and help the tranny a lot. Use rubbing alcohol or brake clean to clean where the gasket was. Either rub it on, or spray but try not to get it in the pan. It will evaporate in open air, but im not sure what happens if it mixes with the fluid at the bottom of the pan. when that is clean and dry, hit the gasket area with some spray adhesive or even spray disc brake quiet if you are in a bind. Again, do NOT let this get in the pan.. use cardboard or a rag as a wall. Allow the adhesive to sit for about a minute to get tacky... Get the new gasket and make sure you have it the right way, then lay it on the pan lining up the bolt holes. It will probably be hard to pull back up so try and get it right the first time.. *note* Using this adhesive to hold the gasket to the pan is not required.. but will make your life 100% easier when trying to put the pan back up. The gasket is folded in the box and wants to curl which can be a pain. Also I have seen people use RTV or silicone to glue the gasket down. I can not endorse this because most are made from a rubberized compound that expands as it dries.. so where you have a layer of paste, it expands and becomes hard and pushes the gasket away and allows for leaks.
Now, you are ready for installation. You will want to put the filter in place and make sure it is secure. Now, holding a tranny pan and bolting it up can be daunting, but there are 3 ways to go about it. 1) hold the pan up and screw in a few bolts. 2) use studs to line the pan up and a nut to tighten it up or 3) what i have started using for heavier and larger pans... clean the pan on the outside, where the bolt heads sit and clean the bolt heads... use a dab of superglue to hold them to the pan... do this on about 4 bolts. and the slightest torque can break them free when in place. Do what works the best for you.. you dont have to rush. get all the bolts started and and down most of the way. Here is why i specified a 1/4" ratchet. tighten the bolts until they stop moving without force, and turn the ratchet another 1/8th turn. The smaller ratchet makes it harder to tighten them too much. Doing so can cause leaks or bent pan lips.
Bent pan lips are noticeable when you take the gasket off, you will see a dimple protruding upwards.. this is not good. If you over tighten them to this extent, and dont have a press to flatten it back out, use a socket just slightly larger than the bolt hole, secure the pan, and tap the dimple out. You probably won't have to do this... its just a precaution.
Now that the tranny pan is all tightened up, remove the drain pan and jackstands and lower the vehicle. Open the hood. Locate the Transmission dipstick. This is usually in the back on the passenger side. A little red handle. This dipstick is also the fill tube. Find a funnel to fit it (never known anyone that hasn't needed a funnel.) Fill the transmission to the recommended capacity that can be found in your owners manual, or your parts store can tell you. Usually its around 4 quarts. I personally recommend Lucas transmission treatment here... it helps smooth out operation and can lengthen the life of your tranny. Note that Lucas is a quart of additive, so just subtract a quart of transmission fluid if you use it. Start the car and let it run for about 2-3 minutes... You dont have the dry start problem like you do with oil changes because you still have fluid in your torque converter, lines, etc. When the car gets up to around 100,000 miles, if its never been done, I recommend getting your transmission vacumed. Its a machine that sucks all the old fluid at the same time it puts in new fluid. You have around 12 quarts total in the automatic transmission at most times. but this filter change will help you out a lot..

Manual Transmission:

Tools Required:
Drain pan
Wrench or Socket the size of the drain plug.
hand pump syphon hose.

Same as above for jacking the vehicle up. Locate the two plugs on the transmission, one upper, one lower. Loosen the lower drain plug just like an oil change. allow all the fluid to drain out. Notice the color of the fluid. If its red, chances are its automatic transmission fluid. (some manual transmissions use ATF, some use gear oil. Check with your manual/ parts person for type and quantity. allow all the fluid to drain out. Tighten the drain plug back up. Take off the upper plug. This will be your fill point. The problem with this setup is that you cant just pour it in.. at most auto parts stores, near the funnels, they have a length of clear hose on both ends of a pump ball. one end goes in the tranny, the other in the appropriate fluid.. pump in the correct quantity of fluid (most times it will be to the bottom of the fill plug. Replace the top plug and you are set... Lower the car and start it up and just move it through the gears.

Congratulations, you just changed your own Transmission fluid and filter.

If you have any questions or comments, just PM me or leave a reply to this message.
 

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Had a quick comment on the Manual Trans...
I heard over the weekend that you should change the ATF in the manual trans for Synthetic Motor Oil. A guy that owns many mustangs and has a parts yard, does this in all his T-5 transmissions, and says he is yet to mess up any bearings or syncro's(sp). I am going to do this, sometime this week and will post an update.
 

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I put in a 50/50 mix of ATF and SAE30 motor oil. I talked to a guy about this and he recommended it because the oil won't breakdown as much or as quickly from the heat as the ATF.
 

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automatic trans. fluid change in 2006 V6

The transmission in My 2006 V6 Mustang does not have a filler check or add tube. When changing the trans. fluid how do you know if the right amount of fluid is added? I hate to bring it into Ford for a tranny fluid change. Anyone done this?? Please what is the procedure for doing this??Thanks
 

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Automatic tranny fluid on the 06 Mustang

Ford recommends returning the car to the dealer for transmission service but I dont buy that. On my 06 GT I dropped the transmission pan and drained the torque converter by drilling a 1/8" hole and threading it for a brass pipe plug. I then added about 11.25 quarts of synthetic fluid through the small fill plug located on the side of the transmission case after installing the new filter and re-installing the pan.
Ford recommends 12 quarts of fluid with a converter change but I found quite a bit of foam when I dropped the pan so I elected to cut back a little.

:gringreen
 

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transmission fluid change

Thank You for the reply. I don't know why the car makers don't put a drain plug in the torque convertor, to simplifly things. Your way sounds good. Thanks, Jim
 

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auto trans oil change

Ford recommends returning the car to the dealer for transmission service but I dont buy that. On my 06 GT I dropped the transmission pan and drained the torque converter by drilling a 1/8" hole and threading it for a brass pipe plug. I then added about 11.25 quarts of synthetic fluid through the small fill plug located on the side of the transmission case after installing the new filter and re-installing the pan.
Ford recommends 12 quarts of fluid with a converter change but I found quite a bit of foam when I dropped the pan so I elected to cut back a little.

:gringreen
Hi,I am new to this site,i have an 06 gt automatic and i saw your thread on drilling the TORQUE CONVERTER. Iwent under my car to do the same but could not get to the torque converter without removing the trans.Did i miss something or you removed the trans.Thank you.
 

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Manual Trans

Had a quick comment on the Manual Trans...
I heard over the weekend that you should change the ATF in the manual trans for Synthetic Motor Oil. A guy that owns many mustangs and has a parts yard, does this in all his T-5 transmissions, and says he is yet to mess up any bearings or syncro's(sp). I am going to do this, sometime this week and will post an update.
Want to change ATF for Engine oil too. Keep me informed of results.
(Shift is currently very "metalic"; expect a smoother shift with oil.)
[email protected]
 

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wow, a manual is way easier if im reading the OP's first post right...
 

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My transmission is leaking 82 mustang 6 cyc

I have changed the transmission pan gasket twice with a rubber gasket and it is still leaking. What could I be doing wrong. I was very careful
not to over tighten the bolts. I am planning on installing a cork gasket.
Do you have any advise? [email protected] (1982 mustang 6 cyc auto)
 

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Thank You for the reply. I don't know why the car makers don't put a drain plug in the torque convertor, to simplifly things. Your way sounds good. Thanks, Jim
My 2000GT has a factory drain plug in the torque convertor....that sucker holds 8 qts of ATF...13qts total!
 
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I put in a 50/50 mix of ATF and SAE30 motor oil. I talked to a guy about this and he recommended it because the oil won't breakdown as much or as quickly from the heat as the ATF.
For anyone who's read this...

Don't do it.

Whoever recommended doing this for this poster was talking out of their ass. Motor oil is designed to lubricate an engine for 3,000/5,000/7,500/15,000 miles depending on the formula. It's designed for a completely different environment than the inside of a transmission. The appropriate transmission fluid for your vehicle is designed for the unique properties of your particular transmission, and in general is designed for a much longer service life (most recommend 30,000 miles or more, with some of the latest automatic transmission fluid formulas and designs actually having NO recommended change interval).
 

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I put in a 50/50 mix of ATF and SAE30 motor oil. I talked to a guy about this and he recommended it because the oil won't breakdown as much or as quickly from the heat as the ATF.

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT DOING THIS.

Also on a manual tranny the first plug to remove is the FILL Plug not the drain plug.

And drilling and tapping the converter and installing a plug is something that should never be DUN PERIOD
 

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For anyone who's read this...

Don't do it.

Whoever recommended doing this for this poster was talking out of their ass. Motor oil is designed to lubricate an engine for 3,000/5,000/7,500/15,000 miles depending on the formula. It's designed for a completely different environment than the inside of a transmission. The appropriate transmission fluid for your vehicle is designed for the unique properties of your particular transmission, and in general is designed for a much longer service life (most recommend 30,000 miles or more, with some of the latest automatic transmission fluid formulas and designs actually having NO recommended change interval).

1000% correct 74. Who ever told you to do this should be stacking shelves at WALL MART. Absolutely the DUMBEST THING I HAVE EVER HEARD. And in the 64 years i have been alive i have heard people do really dumb things. But this is the DUMBEST. DONT DO IT PERIOD IT IS NUTS:nono::nono::nono::nono::nono:
 
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(some manual transmissions use ATF, some use gear oil.

Their is no modern manual TRANNY or for that matter any T5 that uses Gear oil.


Their is a whole lot of Bad info on this post. And i think you should ignore most of it. Other than follow the manufacturers recommendation on intervils and Fluid type. Peace Tom:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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Had a quick comment on the Manual Trans...
I heard over the weekend that you should change the ATF in the manual trans for Synthetic Motor Oil. A guy that owns many mustangs and has a parts yard, does this in all his T-5 transmissions, and says he is yet to mess up any bearings or syncro's(sp). I am going to do this, sometime this week and will post an update.

Who makes up this Garbage. So lets see the people that design the transmission does not know about synthetic motor oils and chooses to use ATF. Fascinating how people start these WIVES TALES. This post is dangerous and costly for some that do not know what they are doing. I would suggest having your tranny serviced by a professional other than people that are sketchy about it or believe these posts as gospel. I cant believe what i am reading here. I in my best day cant make this garbage up.

By the way modern trannys with out dip sticks have a set refill procedure and some need a scan tool to accomplish this. So i would suggest not to follow this post unless you are a professional. You just might be replacing you tranny that was working before you tried to service it. Peace Tom:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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Thank You for the reply. I don't know why the car makers don't put a drain plug in the torque convertor, to simplifly things. Your way sounds good. Thanks, Jim

Because it interferes with the lock up clutches in the converter. And it throws the converter out of balance. Some trannys have drain plugs on the converters and they can be removed but you cant remove them to many times. You will strip them out quite easily. It is not a communist plot. That is why we have a tranny flushing machine. Anyone that drills and taps a converter is playing with fire. Peace Tom :bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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So I have a 1989 ford mustang and after 8 years of not running and runs beautifully... Not going to question it
 
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