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I was lucky enough to be the first and last customer to drive my car before buying it. At 1000 miles, I did an oil change for the sole reason of cleansing my engine of any contaminants rendered from engine break in. I save my oil filter and wrapped it in press-and-seal plastic wrap and stored it until I got an oil filter cutter. Well, I finally bought an oil filter cover and I was a little suprised by my findings:

The Factory Filter


Cutting the Filter Open (these tools do not impose metal shavings; cuts similar to a can opener or brake line/pipe cutter)


Viton Anti-Drain Back Seal/Valve


Decent Amount of Pleates. Pleates Glued Together at Seam Point (typical). Not full of any contaminates.


View Down the Filter Element


With the Filter Removed, You Can See Some Debris at the Bottom in the Fluid.


Let the Fluid Drain to One Section. You Can See Some Debis Reflecting the Light.


Fluid Still In the Filter Housing After I got the Bypass Spring Out. You Can See the Light and Dark Grey Debris.


Drained the Fluid into a Small, Clean Bucket. You Can See the Silver Flakes Very Well.


Here You Can See Some of the Silver, Light Grey and Dark Grey Debris on the Bypass Spring.

*These pictures do not show the debris to their full extent (debris is not wwll defined), but this is the best I can do and gives a well enough idea of what I found.*


Engine break in was done by varying RPM quite a bit (Good) for the first 150-200 miles. After that, I had some highway driving done for another 100 or so miles (not the best to do at such low milage on a fresh engine, but I had to use my vehicle!). Throughout the 1000 miles, multiple WOT near redline runs were made (multiple as in I could count on my two hands, without thumbs. Good). Engine braking on stops/slow downs were also done for the first 1000 miles (Good).

Conclusion:
-Internally, the construction looks like a regular Motorcraft or Purolator oil filter. Pretty decent desing, not the best. If it had an actual spring for a Bypass Spring, like WIX and NAPA Gold, it would be a lot nicer.
-I was suprised that there was not more debris from engine break-in. There was a lot of very fine debris, but I was expecing to see a little bit of slightly larger debris. I am not sure if the rings used are lower tension rings (Good for MPG/CAFE and also good for high performance - less friction. Not so good for long-term multi-use durability). Lower tension rings could equate to more very fine debris and less slightly larger debris.

I will post up what the FL500S Motorcraft filter looks like in this thread when I do my next oil change.
 

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Amazing. Thanks for this post. I was just starting to believe it when they said break in oil wasn't any more polluted than later oil. If that is really so, it is only because of a great filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Amazing. Thanks for this post. I was just starting to believe it when they said break in oil wasn't any more polluted than later oil. If that is really so, it is only because of a great filter.
You could definately get away with the amount of debris present. The filter will do its job. If one didn't want to change all the oil, they could prbably get away with just changing the filter, but whatever debris is present is still subject to being pumped into the system in a cold enough start (anit-drain back/bypass valve). Me? I would optimumlly do an oil change. Fresh oil, fresh filter, fresh start. Some minor debris will occur over the life of the engine. The amount I have obseved from that filter is a little more than what will be seen oil change to oil change.
 

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I was lucky enough to be the first and last customer to drive my car before buying it. At 1000 miles, I did an oil change for the sole reason of cleansing my engine of any contaminants rendered from engine break in. I save my oil filter and wrapped it in press-and-seal plastic wrap and stored it until I got an oil filter cutter. Well, I finally bought an oil filter cover and I was a little suprised by my findings:
I will post up what the FL500S Motorcraft filter looks like in this thread when I do my next oil change.
wow, you are awesome. i love posts like this.
 

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Yes, very great info. I'd like to add that my local Ford dealer has a few different oil filters that are cut open, (just for us to see) and the Ford OEM filter is the best. But they don't have the Napa Gold / Wix filter there, and from what I've read here lately, that is the best filter available. So I'm going to get one of those and check it out. My car has 58,000 miles and runs very well. Some of those miles I have driven hard. Always Mobil 1 but now Red-Line oil, because that's the higher quality base stock of oil. That was all mentioned a week ago on a thread here.

Again,thanks for the excellent info. :bigthumbsup
 

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Yes, very great info. I'd like to add that my local Ford dealer has a few different oil filters that are cut open, (just for us to see) and the Ford OEM filter is the best. But they don't have the Napa Gold / Wix filter there, and from what I've read here lately, that is the best filter available. So I'm going to get one of those and check it out. My car has 58,000 miles and runs very well. Some of those miles I have driven hard. Always Mobil 1 but now Red-Line oil, because that's the higher quality base stock of oil. That was all mentioned a week ago on a thread here.

Again,thanks for the excellent info. :bigthumbsup
How about the amsoil oil and filter??:heha:

Seriously though, great thread and thanks to the OP for sharing that and for the pics etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Amsoil filters, the premium ones, have a totally different media for the filter element. Nanofiber or something. It's synthetic though. I have never used one, but from those few who I have talked to the use them, they love them. The literature on them looks good...

I know Wix does make a FL500S equivalent, so that is the best route for an oil filter. Amsoil does not make an application yet; I would have tried them if they did. So, stuck with the good old Motorcraft like Ive done before.
 

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^^^ I'm sure they are great. Just having some fun with the choice of oil/filter options as the "discussions" can get a little heated/humorous.
 

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That is very good investigating but, isn't it possible the debris came from the cutting of the filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is very good investigating but, isn't it possible the debris came from the cutting of the filter?
Good question. I have cut oil filters open before and the one time I got debris in the filter from cutting was because the filter was being a pain to get open. Even then, it was easy to tell the difference between the little cutting debris that got in and what was in the filter already.

When you cut open a canned good with a can opener, does metal debris get into your food?
 

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Very informative post. Thank you.
 

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Sooo...is it recommended to change the oil and/or filter on your brandnew car? We bought our 2012 mustang vert w/ only 10 miles on it. No one else had driven it. B/n us driving it home & taking it out once it has maybe 90 miles on it now, town miles. The dealer said no to changing the oil. Hubby wanted to (thinking of debri from the building of the car) before the dealer said it was unnecessary. Unfortunetly we are not "car" people & neither is my dad so we had no true authority to guide us on this. We try to take excellent care of our autos & we want this car to last forever :) so any guidence is appreciated!
 

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You need to cut the filter flat and stretch it out. I'd be willing to bet that there is a lot more there. Just looking at the media pic, it looks like there is a lot of bling sitting on it. Just the pic maybe?
 
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Thanks for this, awesome info, great pics. If I'd known this I wouldn't have waited till 3K for my first oil change, I even hesitated doing the early 3K change thinking it was a bit of a waste of 8 qts of half used oil. Now I'm thinking I shoulda done it earlier...
 

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i do oil and filter 1st time between 500-1000mi, 2nd time 1000miles later. then your choice as to how often. I do NOT recomend going over 6000 miles. Oil is cheap insurance. Mine will be a 2nd vehicle 6000 miloes per year. Full synthetic 1x per year, hopefully i can just swap out the filter without draining the oil 1x additional per... I do like the idea of the first two short interval changes using synthetic blend rather than full syn
 

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.........
-I was suprised that there was not more debris from engine break-in. There was a lot of very fine debris, but I was expecing to see a little bit of slightly larger debris. I am not sure if the rings used are lower tension rings (Good for MPG/CAFE and also good for high performance - less friction. Not so good for long-term multi-use durability). Lower tension rings could equate to more very fine debris and less slightly larger debris.

I will post up what the FL500S Motorcraft filter looks like in this thread when I do my next oil change.
No reason to be surprised here. You would/may find the "chunks" imbedded in the filter medium. Also the filter would have done its job at 5000 miles and you may find a simular amount of metal suspended in a filter tear down at a higher mileage break-in.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So, I found an unopened, never been used, random Amsoil filter in my garage behinde a box on one of my work benches. For proof on how well the tool I use cuts, I cut open the unused filter to view if there were any debris at all possibly present from cutting. Like I said, I have done this before, but I wanted to document it since I had the opportunity.

In the Box


Out of the Box


Yes, it's empty.


1


2


2.5


3


4



Of course this is the internet and it's hard to trust people behind a screen; take my word for it, I did not tamper with anything or clean anything up. Took the filter out of the box, cut it open, snapped pictures along the way. Straight to the point. No debris anywhere; not on top of the filter, where I cut, not on the filter element, not in the bottom of the canister. There is some chipped paint on my hand, but that's from handling the canister.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, after 7,000 miles, this is what my Motorcraft FL500S filter looks like. Driving conditions were midwest summer (average of about 60 degrees in the morning, 80 degrees in the day and 75 degrees at night) and a good bled of city and highway.

I have the factory filter next to the Motorcraft:


Filters side by side before partial tear down:


Close up of the FL500S between pleates:


Both filters partially torn down:


Close up of the factory filter that I put 1,000 miles on:


Close up of the Motorcraft with 7,000 miles on it:


Conclusion:
I must say, I am impressed with how the Motorcraft filters looks at 7,000 miles. Not that it looks great, but I was expecting it to look a little worse just based off past experience. Nevertheless, the Motorcraft filter is very close to its service limit. I wouldn't push this filter too much further - well, at least in my case.

Also, looking at both filters, the factory and the Motorcraft, the factory filter does look to be a better design. The outlet is less restricted and there are more bypass holes. The number of pleates looks about the same and the material looks about the same between the two. The anti drain-back valve looks like a little nicer design on the factory filter. I wonder who makes the factory filter? Maybe I need to do a best oil filter study for our Mustangs?
 

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So whens the recommended time to do the first oil change?

My stang only has 900kms on it..but it will be in storage for the winter starting the end of october..any recommendations?
 
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