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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sitting at 450rwhp and tempted to get the 127300 or 127350 cams before I do the shortblock over the winter. I'm going with forged pistons and rods with the stock crank. I'm not planning on revving past 6500 and my tune is conservative.
Im curious to see how linear the power curve is going to be after the cams. I know that I'll loose a little under 4000 rpms, bit gain past that with the cams. Should be in the 480-490 rwhp... You guys think I should do it?
 

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Our engines are safe to 550 dynojet rwhp with a good tune. Go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The shop around here has a superflow. I think it's rated a little lower than a dynojet. Hmmmm that makes me wonder if I should get a smaller pulley...:evillol::evillol:

Just kidding, I'll get the canned tune from Brenspeed with the cams, then fine tune off of that with the local dynoshop.
 

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The shop around here has a superflow. I think it's rated a little lower than a dynojet. Hmmmm that makes me wonder if I should get a smaller pulley...:evillol::evillol:

Just kidding, I'll get the canned tune from Brenspeed with the cams, then fine tune off of that with the local dynoshop.
Find out how much lower it's rated than the Dynojet. If you're already running 500 dynojet, then you will be pushing the limits.

Just be ready for it to pop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Find out how much lower it's rated than the Dynojet. If you're already running 500 dynojet, then you will be pushing the limits.

Just be ready for it to pop.
Hot rod magazine had an article on dynos. Same motor 263 dynojet and 259 superflow SAE
 

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Yah, I say go for it ... With a good tune, I've (and others) been living on the Dark Side (528 rwhp) for about 2 1/2 years now with out any issues at all. :bigthumbsup
Some here tend to be nervous Nellies and really don't have any direct experience at this level and just repeat what they've heard others saying . It's all in the tune man and with a bad one, it can even let go at 425 RWHP. Have fun !!! :D
 

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If you're getting a shortblock build this winter, why bother?

You could still sell a working used block for some nice money where as a broken motor won't fetch you much.

But I'm 99% sure you'll be fine since you're still under and around 500, but if I had the possibility of selling the used motor for 1k(or whatever they go for), I'd be conservative until I get my new motor.:bigthumbsup
 

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Learn from my mistakes.

Put the cams in when the motor is out of the car and on the stand. Degree them or have someone degree them for you. The 3v stuff is all over the place in regards to cam timing. You could end up hurting yourself as much as helping if they are just thrown in “straight up”. Run 20deg limiters, not lockouts and not stock.

And you probably won’t see any appreciable loss in bottom end with those cams. In my experience the simply feel stock to about 3500-4000rpm and then “take off”. They are a very rare cam in that they are “have your cake and eat it too” setup.

Good luck:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yah, I say go for it ... With a good tune, I've (and others) been living on the Dark Side (528 rwhp) for about 2 1/2 years now with out any issues at all...
I noticed it says 528rwhp in your sig, if you've been at 528hp for 2.5 years, how hard are you on your car? Do you take it to the track?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you're getting a shortblock build this winter, why bother?

You could still sell a working used block for some nice money where as a broken motor won't fetch you much.

But I'm 99% sure you'll be fine since you're still under and around 500, but if I had the possibility of selling the used motor for 1k(or whatever they go for), I'd be conservative until I get my new motor.:bigthumbsup
I'm building my stock block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Learn from my mistakes.

Put the cams in when the motor is out of the car and on the stand. Degree them or have someone degree them for you. The 3v stuff is all over the place in regards to cam timing. You could end up hurting yourself as much as helping if they are just thrown in “straight up”. Run 20deg limiters, not lockouts and not stock.


I've always tried to learn from other people's mistakes on here. People seldom admit to them on here. When I read that KDT was having a headache with his headers. He had to remove them for the trans/clutchtrouble he was having, I chose headers that allow removal of trans.

You're running 127350/20 deg limiters?
 

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I ran the living snot out of my car at a little over 500 rwhp (dynojet) for 18 months just hoping it would blow but it never did. I was trying to hurry it's demise in the end so I could get my new build going. It just wouldn't quit though...

Finally just started the new engine build early this year (on a new, second block, long-block assembled on a stand :winks) while still running mine after I came to my senses. That way downtime was minimized and we could just swap everything out once things were done and built.

When all was said and done, I got good money for the original engine - $1000 :bigthumbsup It's in a bracket racer now, as-is when it left my engine bay...

So I agree with everyone, and like GIT E UPP, a good tune is priceless.
 

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You're running 127350/20 deg limiters?
Correct-A-Moondo.:bigthumbsup

And I degreed them in.....in the car. What a PITA!:nogrinner
 

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Check out the 127400 cams instead I think you will like them better with the mods you already have. :bigthumbsup
 

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I would not bother changing cams at that level and as far as dyno numbers...too many variables...too unreliable...500 on one machine can be 400 on another. Notice how those that achieve lower and lower ETs (11s on down) tend to NOT post rwhp in their sigs.
 

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as far as dyno numbers...too many variables...too unreliable...500 on one machine can be 400 on another.
JPC's dyno, which mine was tuned on, is a "Dyno Dynamics" dynamometer. Never heard of it before. Who knows how it's numbers compare to Dynojets or Mustang dynos?

Plus dyno operators can actually adjust / correct the output of their machines to match those of competitive dynos, supposedly for apples-to-apples comparisons. If they can do that (which I'm sure few actually do) who's to say they don't just adjust them to fudge numbers upward for the dyno queens? Just sayin it's possible...

So yeah, dyno numbers don't mean much unless you're doing before and afters, tuning, that kind of thing. Even then, variables exist. Plus - how accurate and consistent is any given dyno? 3% margin on a 500 hp car means it could read anywhere from 485-515 rwhp under the same conditions.
 

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I noticed it says 528rwhp in your sig, if you've been at 528hp for 2.5 years, how hard are you on your car? Do you take it to the track?
Hey Jimmy, Let me put it put it this way....It's my daily driver, and i'm no Pussey on the street. Hasn't seen the strip though..... unfortunately, that's when sh%t breaks. I'm sure along with this and a good tune, that's the reason it's still all in one piece....;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey Jimmy, Let me put it put it this way....It's my daily driver, and i'm no Pussey on the street. Hasn't seen the strip though..... unfortunately, that's when sh%t breaks. I'm sure along with this and a good tune, that's the reason it's still all in one piece....;)
Thanks GT E UPP. Good to know you at least use your car instead of simply boasting a big dyno ###'s. It's seems to be that most people either post 1/4 mile times or rwhp people hardly ever post both.

I'm sure cams would put me near 500rwhp and close to 11.5 et with my current tires. If I had a full slick right now, I'm sure I could do a mid 11.
 
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