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Discussion Starter #1
So I am contemplating getting a 2012 V6. I have a 40 mile round trip commute and $50 a week in gas is just hurting right now. I thought about a Fiesta but I would rather not switch to that from a Mustang.

So I'm thinking about getting a basic 2012 V6 maybe with a couple options depending on what kind of rate I get and such.

Right now I pay $317.xx a month for my 08.

I'm wondering what kind of trade-in they might offer? I'm hoping something in the $12k-$13k range wouldn't be too out of line to ask for. I don't want a low ball offer of like $8k or anything. especially since they sell these for like $15k-$16k all day long.

I got an e-mail quote for basically a base 2012 w/ a manual for $21,2xx or auto for $22,2xx. I'm thinking about a manual but everyone keeps telling me to go with the auto because driving in traffic with the manual will be terrible but I don't know. Would offering them less than these quotes be ok? I'm thinking if I offered like $19k-$20k for a base w/ manual that wouldn't be too far out of line. I had a buddy that bought his 08 V6 brand new for $16k by telling them that's how much he was going to pay and they accepted. I'd be financing mine and if I could get a 72 month financing plan w/ around $12.5K for trade-in and about $19.5k for the car I could get payments around $325 a month.

I'd be paying about the same and the gas mileage would be better without having to sell and go into a fiesta (which could be done for like $16k but it's not as fun to drive). I don't have to sell mine, I can afford to keep it, it's just frustrating w/ gas prices the way they are.

I'm just wondering is there any issues that these cars have that I need to know about? They should have all the bugs worked out being the second model year of the new engines and such.

Also does all that seem reasonable or does it seem like I'm pushing for more to hard for a steal of a deal?

p.s. Does anyone know if they are still doing the tax rebate from the government for buying a new car? I know they've been doing it for the past couple years right?

thanks!
 

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Rama,

Order the pamphlet from Ford, it will have a $750 coupon in it.

Sell your car via craigslist or private party. You will get way more then a trade in.

Yes, haggle with the dealer, but don't tell him you have the coupon. After you agree on the price, hit him with the coupon.

Yes, get the automatic. The manual transmission has been having a lot of reported problems. Also the auto outperforms the manual all day long.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I still owe about 10,6xx on my car. how does that work selling private party? last car I had was paid for. never tried to sell a car that I owed on before.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You're going to pay $12k to save at most $100/month?

You'll break even in 10 years.
well I'm also getting a car 4 model years newer with 100 hp more.

the mileage is just a big selling point, but the hp and having a new car isn't a negative.
 

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Its easy, you sell the car, collect the cash and pay it off. Then you pocket the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its easy, you sell the car, collect the cash and pay it off. Then you pocket the difference.
Should I ask about $15k for it?

keep in mind it would also come with a GT/CS bumper (unpainted) and all the piping and mufflers need for a dual exhaust installation. I have the parts, just haven't installed.

That would leave me $4k to put as a down payment.

Also I still have a warranty from when I bought it, (not factory) but dealer warranty, does that transfer?
 

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Rama,

Order the pamphlet from Ford, it will have a $750 coupon in it.

Sell your car via craigslist or private party. You will get way more then a trade in.

Yes, haggle with the dealer, but don't tell him you have the coupon. After you agree on the price, hit him with the coupon.

Yes, get the automatic. The manual transmission has been having a lot of reported problems. Also the auto outperforms the manual all day long.

Have to call you on a couple of points,

#1 is that not every brochure comes with the cash coupon, and if the dealer puts your info into his computer he will see if you have been issued a coupon so not telling doesn't do much good.

#2 is that while you may be able to sell privately for better money it is harder to do because an individual can't offer financing and low down payments like a dealer.

#3 is that the automatic doesn't outperform a manual unless you just don't know how to drive one.



I still owe about 10,6xx on my car. how does that work selling private party? last car I had was paid for. never tried to sell a car that I owed on before.
You get together with the buyer and the finance company on your car and work out the details of the payoff and title transfer so that the buyer feels confident in the fact he will get the title with no problems.



Should I ask about $15k for it?

keep in mind it would also come with a GT/CS bumper (unpainted) and all the piping and mufflers need for a dual exhaust installation. I have the parts, just haven't installed.

That would leave me $4k to put as a down payment.

Also I still have a warranty from when I bought it, (not factory) but dealer warranty, does that transfer?

Look at other cars like your for sale on craigslist and autotrader and see what others are asking for their cars but be sure you compare to individuals selling and not dealers since they can ask more for their cars since they offer services that an individual can't.

The aftermarket parts you have are not worth much on the asking price for the car, you'd be better off selling them on ebay.

And you need to look at your warranty contract and see if it is transferable and what the cost is to transfer it to the new owner.


And as to the financing, if you finance for 72 months you should be able to get the payment way lower than $325, especially if you have a good record on your current note. I believe that the current best rate at Ford credit for a 72 month note is 3.9%.
 

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Have to call you on a couple of points,

#1 is that not every brochure comes with the cash coupon.

#2 is that while you may be able to sell privately for better money it is harder to do because an individual can't offer financing and low down payments like a dealer.

#3 is that the automatic doesn't outperform a manual unless you just don't know how to drive one.
Ltngdrvr,

Good points but you are simply wrong on number 3. The auto outperforms the stick in every performance category. We live in 2011 now not 1998.
 

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Ltngdrvr,

Good points but you are simply wrong on number 3. The auto outperforms the stick in every performance category. We live in 2011 now not 1998.
Don't know which 2011+ V6 automatic Mustang you are thinking of but it sure as hell doesn't outperform the manual.

And while some have had some issues with the manual, most buyers have not.
 

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To the OP, I just ran your numbers through the finance calculator starting with a selling price of $20,500 and $4000 down, 6.25% Texas sales tax, at 4.9% for 72 months and it comes to $285.54 per month.

About $20,400 is about the lowest price on a base 2012 V6 manual in Texas, I wouldn't expect to get one for any less as that is well under invoice.
 

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I agree with Ltngdrvr on this one with the manual. As the manual's potential is set by its durability, ease of use and its user. The manual has an advantage around corners as they allow you figure out wich gear is best to exit out of the corner with, the main thing is that you get to be the judge not the computer.

Long story short, if you are out for performance i suggest the manual and all the extra maintenance that might entail. If you are just a weekend warrior i suggest the auto though, I have found it to be pretty fast compaired to other autos that ive had to deal with in the past and its not bad around corners. I personally have a auto V6 white 2011 daily driver myself and thoroughly enjoy it.

Look into what has already been said about the 2011+ autos and manuals around here before you make your decision. They each have their own issues one more than others LOL. Most just seem nit picky. Then of course test drive one and rent one form Hurtz or other. I suggest renting one as they normally have 2k+ miles on them unless your unlucky. Brand new act alittle bit diffrent than one that has miles on it so try each state as thats a luxury you dont get with higher end vehicles.

As for financing, have you considerd tax and redgestration fees? thats an extra 2k or so.
 

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you are simply wrong on number 3. The auto outperforms the stick in every performance category. We live in 2011 now not 1998.
Please back that up with references.
 

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Are you talking about a Premium or a Base? If you go Premium all the new stuff that comes with the car will knock your socks off and you'll really feel like your money is doing something for you.

I doubt you'll get $15, I got $15.5 just over a month ago for a spotless, looked-new, smells-new 2009 V6 Premium with 11K miles on it that I had added a GT spoiler too as well as sequentials. That was the best trade in I could find, other dealers wouldn't budge past $14. I project the dealer will make about $1500 to $2000. Sure you could sell it possibly make up that difference but the thing is, it's next to impossible to find a private party buyer with that kind of cash or who would be willing to finance payments to buy from an individual. Plus nothing is free, with no trade in, you aren't going to get as good a deal on the car... I ordered a CR price report (the most reliable and the only one in my opinion that carries any clout with a dealer) and even with the holdback my 2012 was a little bit under what the dealer paid for it. He could afford to do that since he was making a little on the trade.

But I'm not trying to discourage you, I loved my 2009 but the current generation cars equipment level is incredible as is how much more solid the cars feel. And the new ones have everything the 2009 models lacked, dual exhaust, sequentials, great mileage, and lots of hp.

As to Auto/manual, sounds like most of your drive is commuting so an auto is the obvious choice to me unless you are so confident in your shifting ability you are willing to stake your life on it. Like when that 18 wheeler decides to change lanes on top of you and you can't just mash the pedal to get out of the way, you have to shift a few times to get up speed... a couple of seconds can make or break what's going to happen. I can drive a manual and quite well but I had three in a row and finally realized I was just bowing to peer pressure to be cool and I didn't really like it better, in fact, it was a PITA. Plus I feel safer because I am ready to react instantly to whatever comes my way.
 

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You buy what you can afford.:winks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Are you talking about a Premium or a Base? If you go Premium all the new stuff that comes with the car will knock your socks off and you'll really feel like your money is doing something for you.

I doubt you'll get $15, I got $15.5 just over a month ago for a spotless, looked-new, smells-new 2009 V6 Premium with 11K miles on it that I had added a GT spoiler too as well as sequentials. That was the best trade in I could find, other dealers wouldn't budge past $14. I project the dealer will make about $1500 to $2000. Sure you could sell it possibly make up that difference but the thing is, it's next to impossible to find a private party buyer with that kind of cash or who would be willing to finance payments to buy from an individual. Plus nothing is free, with no trade in, you aren't going to get as good a deal on the car... I ordered a CR price report (the most reliable and the only one in my opinion that carries any clout with a dealer) and even with the holdback my 2012 was a little bit under what the dealer paid for it. He could afford to do that since he was making a little on the trade.

But I'm not trying to discourage you, I loved my 2009 but the current generation cars equipment level is incredible as is how much more solid the cars feel. And the new ones have everything the 2009 models lacked, dual exhaust, sequentials, great mileage, and lots of hp.

As to Auto/manual, sounds like most of your drive is commuting so an auto is the obvious choice to me unless you are so confident in your shifting ability you are willing to stake your life on it. Like when that 18 wheeler decides to change lanes on top of you and you can't just mash the pedal to get out of the way, you have to shift a few times to get up speed... a couple of seconds can make or break what's going to happen. I can drive a manual and quite well but I had three in a row and finally realized I was just bowing to peer pressure to be cool and I didn't really like it better, in fact, it was a PITA. Plus I feel safer because I am ready to react instantly to whatever comes my way.
well if I ask for $15 I can but obo and accept a lower price.

and the extra parts is all the parts to do a clean dual exhaust install, w/ a GT/CS rear bumper. that's a good $500 worth of parts and should easily fetch a few hundred. as always it's a negotiable part of the price, I can sell lower if someone doesn't want them or throw them in if they pay the higher price.
It also already has sequentials, a pedestal spoiler, tint, etc... etc..

I had the guy from the dealership shoot me a guestimate on a V6 with auto w/ $3k down and 72 month financing, and he came back with around $350 a month for good credit, mine's not fantastic but it's better than most, and I've never missed or been late on a payment for anything.

I said 3K because I figure realistically I will sell my car for about $14k-$14.5k which leaves me about 3.5k-4k to use as a down payment since I only owe 10.5k on it. If a dealer offered me 14k or even 13.5k trade-in I'd probably take it and sell the extra bumper and stuff on CL, but I doubt they are going to go anywhere near that. they'll probably low ball me with like 10k or some crap.

@Ltngdrvr could run that and see if you get the same thing? thanks,
 

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The finance calculator is on cars.com, that way you can play with the numbers yourself and see the possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
so it looks like if I can get them down to like 21,500 for the car (or lower hopefully) with 7% interest (can't count on promotional rates, plan for the worst) and 7% sales tax, with 3,000 down or if I can get 13.5k for my trade (effectively 3K down) then my payments would be around $340 a month.

very doable. that's only about $23 more a month than I pay now.

waiting on that brochure I put in for it on the ford brochures website. hopefully I get a coupon, and can work out a deal with the dealership. if I can't get a good trade I'll have to sell private party which might take longer but hopefully I won't have to go that route. :bigthumbsup

If anyone has any other ideas or input feel free. but right now it's looking really good that I might be able to get it. If not, I can either keep it or I could look into a fully loaded fiesta for around $18K range.

(mind you guys I'm not broke or anything, i'm just a cheapass and don't like to push the limit of my budget).
 

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Have you considered a 2011? Same car basically and you can get a better deal.

Also, some advice. Dont rely on the dealer for info, know your credit score, what you can qualify for (can apply online with ford) and take the power back from the dealer and into your hands. You tell them what you want and how much you will pay and accept for your trade going in and know the exact numbers all around. If you rely on the salesman you will get raped for a couple thousand more.


so it looks like if I can get them down to like 21,500 for the car (or lower hopefully) with 7% interest (can't count on promotional rates, plan for the worst) and 7% sales tax, with 3,000 down or if I can get 13.5k for my trade (effectively 3K down) then my payments would be around $340 a month.

very doable. that's only about $23 more a month than I pay now.

waiting on that brochure I put in for it on the ford brochures website. hopefully I get a coupon, and can work out a deal with the dealership. if I can't get a good trade I'll have to sell private party which might take longer but hopefully I won't have to go that route. :bigthumbsup

If anyone has any other ideas or input feel free. but right now it's looking really good that I might be able to get it. If not, I can either keep it or I could look into a fully loaded fiesta for around $18K range.

(mind you guys I'm not broke or anything, i'm just a cheapass and don't like to push the limit of my budget).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well I know my credit score already.

I know exactly what I want, base V6 with decklid vinyl (not the big huge plastic disaster), and a pedestal spoiler. upgraded stereo if possible but not a huge loss if I can't get it. maybe in grabber blue, maybe in white.

I don't want to pay more than $340 a month, and I want at least 13.5K trade in. or I can sell it private party.

I haven't looked at 2011's but then again I haven't actually gone to a dealership and started looking yet.

I asked for a quote through e-mail so I'm not even set on dealership or anything yet. I just wanted to see what kind of numbers they would throw at me. Their numbers aren't bad but I'm sure I can work out a better deal than that.
 
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