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1973 Mustang 351C C6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So mostly I'm writing this to vent, but anyway. So I got my Performer intake and installed in on my 73 351C. Took it down the road, gave it a little hell, brought it back to the garage, oil EVERYWHERE on the back of the motor. Ok, no problem, I just got a little over anxious and didn't let the RTV set up good. Pull it back off, clean it up, put it back on. I let it sit overnight. Crank it, ease down the road for a warm up, no oil. So then back on the highway. STILL OIL. So what now? Edelbrock forbids me to use the end seal on the intake. But I don't know what else to do. Should I try to gob even more RTV? Use the end seal and RTV? And another thing, it has been established, with y'alls help, that its running rich, so rich that now it floods it self out idiling. Anybody know how to tune a Holley? Web pages that might help? Please help me before I lose it...
 

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if you order a set of felpro gaskets it comes w/ cork gaskets for the intake manifold (front and back). i always just use silicon gasket maker. you might also check the oil plug/sending unit on the back of the block. i noticed mine was leaking the other day!
 

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I never you the end gaskets for the intakes either, I just run a 3/8" bead of RTV on each end. How thick a bead have you put down? Does is "smoosh" out at all when you place the intake down? Also a good place to start with the idle screws is to screw them in until the stop, don't force them, then back out 1 1/2 turns. Then you can start from there adjusting your idle mixture settings.
 

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go to holleys website and download an owners manual. that is what i did. you may have to adjust your fuel level in the bowls, or possibly your choke
 

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1973 Mustang 351C C6
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is that the plug like thing sitting on the block right behind the rear of the intake? Cause that's where the oil pools up...
 

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What I do to all my engines is ge a center punch and line the seal surface with a row of dimples, that way the silicone with have something to grab. You can do the intake also just make sure you dont set the carb mount surface on anything or it can get damaged while center punching the intake. By the way you dont need to do this to make it seal its just cheap insurance.

On a side note though my buddy has a 351c 4v and his did that also, he was going to pull the intake off but waited a couple weekends next thing you know its not leaking anymore.
 

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Is that the plug like thing sitting on the block right behind the rear of the intake? Cause that's where the oil pools up...
Yes, it should be. Maybe thats youre problem, would make it easy. Its for an oil pressure line, usually for an aftermarket gauge. Theres another on most older engines that the factory gauge (or light) connects to.
 

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If its idling way too rich you probably have the wrong power valve (or maybe youre just running a double pumper and small cam). You want to swap your power valve if you cant get it to idle with a good mixture with the mixture screws.

As far as the gaskets, use the end cork gaskets. I only changed on intake on a small block Ford and despite what people said I used the gaskets. Started the car up without giving it hardly any time to set up, no problems. I dont see why people are so against them, I only hear about trouble sealing when people DONT use them, so why not use them? Good luck.:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So for anybody who cares, with the help of a full valley pan gasket and a whole tube of Permatex, the intake has stopped blowing oil. Now when I get my timing and carb straight, she should roll on pretty quick...
 

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well....not too many people capable of putting in the valley pan...what a pita they are.

Have you checked to make sure you PCV valve is functioning properly. It is something that needs to be replaced periodically and can lead to excessive crank case pressure notorious for first blowing the dip stick up out of the tube a little and the making intakes unseal ;)
 
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