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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is a '99 GT 5-speed with 23k miles. The ticking started awhile ago. I heard it only at start up every once and awhile, maybe 3-4 times over a 4 month period, and it would only last a few seconds. Then within about a weeks time the ticking got a lot worse. Now in addition to start up, I only heard it when the engine was revved above 2k rpms. It was a constant ticking that increased with engine speed, but only above a certain rpm. It is coming from the front of the engine on the passenger side. Now I thought I was able to pin point the sound using a stethoscope and narrowed it down to the Idler and/or tensioner pulley(s), so I replaced both. The sound decreased dramatically, but I can still hear it slightly when I rev the engine above 3k rpms and it is still there when it is started cold every so often. Any ideas? I do have the Steeda under drive pulleys if it matters or not.
Thanks in advance,
Jesse
 

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i hope u arent talking about pinging cuz that is a major problem that needs to be taken care of ASAP.....detonation is a serious problem and can have extremely negative effects on your motor.....i have the pulleys too and have never noticed any ticking sound....i do know that they pulley design was changed midway into '01 so there are two different versions of the pulleys....the only difference is the wayer pump pulley (if memory serves me)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I forgot to mention the ticking is a metal on metal sound. I've had the steeda pulleys on my car for about 5 months now and the ticking started a month or longer after I installed them. I don't think they are related, but the pulleys and CAI are the only mods I've done to my engine. After checking some other threads, I'm going to check the spark plugs and fuel injectors and reinstall the steeda crankshaft pulley today (just to make me feel better). As far as pinging, I haven't changed my timing nor used less than 87 octane (which I have always used). I did read a thread about CAI's possibly setting the MAF out of wack and leaning out the engine so I'm also going to check/clean my MAF. I also need gas so I'm going to try 91 (highest octane avaliable here is CO) and some fuel injector cleaner. I'll update later in the day.
 

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I had a ticking noise too, the cylinder heads had to be replaced, hopefully it's not the same ticking as mine was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seems like the ticking could be so many things, from small/cheap to fix to internal engine problems. I'm hoping not too expensive. I've tried to eliminate all the small easy things to check. Today I checked all my pulleys, spark plugs/injectors... all installed properly. Checked fitment on my Pro chamber mid pipe and for other exhaust leaks... all ok. Filled it up with 91 octane + fuel injector cleaner, replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the MAF with some electrical parts cleaner. Still there at high rpms.:( I'll have to give it a while to see if it returns upon start up though as it occured every so often. I'm starting to wonder if it is normal and I just never noticed it before with the exhaust drowning it out. Like I said earlier after replacing the idler/tensioner pulleys it quited alot, but now knowing what it sounds like I can't help but notice it, even at its reduced level. I haven't noticed a decrease in power, weird idle or anything out of the norm. My plan for now is to monitor it for awhile to see if it increases or not and then start with the expensive stuff if all else fails. Maybe it is time to start saving for a cobra or new SVT mustang.
 

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More than likely it is a problem with the cams. I am not sure about these mod motors yet, but can vvalve lash be adjusted? The clearence between the rockers and valve springs?


That is more than likely why that set of heads had to be replaced. It could have been beyound adjustment.

David
 

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alright im good at this since i have experienced it. if its what my problem was your about to dive into a non existent wallet. ROD BEARINGS- i didnt want to believe it at first but after numerous people telling me timing chain tensioners and the guides and maybe lifters or a bad oil pump or even a bad exhaust valve, nope nope nope and nope. it was rod bearings so i brought my car to al papitto and had him build me a complete motor. does the sound get faster and louder as you accelerate? and does it only do it at certain rpm ranges? heres a few pictures of the bearings i actually just got back from picking them up. the car had 60,000 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all who replied and I wanted to post the fixes here for reference. I believe I've found my problems and luckily they were fairly inexpensive to fix. First, the nuts that hold the header to the mid pipe on the passenger side backed off (actually lost one) causing an exhaust leak on the passenger side. Second, my serpentine belt stretched slightly. The second was the one that was driving me crazy. Not sure if it was just that the belt was 6 yrs old and/or the installation of Steeda Underdrive Pulleys a couple of months ago. I only got the noise above 1500 rpm’s when cold and above 2000 rpm’s when the engine warmed up. Since the belt was slightly larger than it should be it was causing the belt tensioner to rattle internally. If you look at the tensioner as you rev your engine you’ll notice that it moves with engine speed and when mine went over 2k the extra torque developed at the higher rpm’s combined with the extra slack in the belt caused the tensioner to cause a metallic rattle/ticking noise. I had a lot of people look at it and most said the idler/tensioner pulley bearing were bad followed by a bad tensioner arm and too much slack in the timing chain as well as possibly a bad crank shaft dampener or water pump.

Thanks again,
Jesse
 
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