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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Timing cover plate question or problem

New 65 mustang owner with vehicle that has a long history of modifications that I am still getting my head around.

I have a leaking timing cover in my mustang. I embarked on replacing it which started me to research the motor as I didn`t know the motor or model year.

I removed the starter motor and found the Cast number as starting with F1SE. This gave me the information that the motor was from a 91 Thunderbird. The timing cover installed is a C90E 6059 which I have realized is from a 1969 motor. The corresponding water pump is a regular rotation with intake and exit ports on passenger side.

I removed the timing cover and noticed heavy wear on the inside of the timing cover from the fuel pump excentric (see attached pictures). Found metal shavings inside the excentric.

Can I get a deeper timing cover? Do later model 302s with regular rotation water pump systems have a deeper timing cover (1970-1978)? Can I machine down the fuel pump excentric 1/8" to stay free of the timing cover? Are there different sized excentrics? Could mine be a thicker version?

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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I'm not sure on this one, but I will give you a couple of choices. For starters, I'm sure you realized the 91 T-bird was EFI and did not use a mechanical pump. It may be the timing set for a 69 year may be a little thinner on the camshaft sprocket to accommodate a fuel pump eccentric or your idea of grinding off some on the eccentric, this will depend on how much of the fuel pump arm rubs the eccentric and whether it is very close to the edge of it. Those are just a thought. Did you check the end play on the camshaft, it should be very little, if they installed too thin of a thrust plate or the camshaft gear has too much thickness where the thrust plate runs, would cause to much end play on the camshaft, I'm surprised, no one noticed it grinding on the timing cover. My 2 cts. Good Luck.
 

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Well, that's a definite mis-match. The concentric appears to be deeper than one I've used. Perhaps, another poster has one available for a measurement. Else, a trip to your local parts store for a comparison with a 289/early 302 era motor will help.
Otherwise, if you have access to a lathe and can do it yourself, then do it. Otherwise, they are too cheap to replace vs. farming out to a shop. It's a crap shoot when POs throw a barnyard of parts together.
Good Luck....
 

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If it's issues w/the mechanical fuel pump I'd just switch to an electric pump. My .02.
 

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Itmartin never really stated that the engine had a mechanical fuel pump, and I'll be darned if I can see the openings for one. I would think there is an electric fuel pump already on the car. Some joker seems to have used the eccentric as a spacer for the bolt and let it go. Now he has to deal with metal in the oil. That sucks!
 

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I have machined down a eccentric on the lathe. took about 1/8 off. must double check that the pump is riding on it first. I don't know of any thicker covers. also need to check for metal in the engine, ie oil drain holes. if it was me id take the oil pan off and pick up tube and check them out for metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi. First of all thanks for all the feedback and responses. The motor does have a mechanical fuel pump. I will most likely take 1/8" off the eccentric as SP66stang suggested. Although it looks as most of the metal was contained in the eccentric I will pull the oil pan as well. I have wanted to change the oil pan anyway as it is chrome and feel that I would have better heat transfer with a good old steel one.

Thanks again all.

Larry.
 

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Took another look and found the opening. Also noticed that someone had painted the inside and some of it has bubbled and peeled off into the oil.
 

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As I read it the STARTER is an F1SE not the timing cover.
Your contact problem likely stems from use of the wrong year timing gear /set. It is probably for a later 302 with a 2 piece eccentric. This upper gear has a raised area to provide clearance for the outer ring of the two piece eccentric to clear the gear. When the one piece eccentric is used on that gear it spaces the eccentric out into the timing cover. Two choices . Get the proper year timing gear/ set for the one piece eccentric OR machine the raised area on the GEAR flat. That is the proper way. Do NOT cut the eccentric ( though it will and has worked). Doing so shortens the amount of dowel pin engagement and "could" allow the eccentric to turn and loosen the cam bolt which would lead to catastrophic destruction.
Randy
 
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