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JBert and 901X are most likely correct especially if money is tight. I believe that is an issue you mentioned.
Plus you'll be saving money for those cams and other accompanying upgrades. 😜👍
Why spend more than need be to do the same? The J&M’s are a good choice for those who want a better “launch” while retaining the ability to corner.
They say the poly bushings will ALWAYS increase NVH a little over the factory soft rubber bushings. I guess it's a question of whether it is noticeable or not; which depends on how picky you are about noise, and how noisy your car already is.

I went to poly bushings in the rear (and also the front) and did not notice any big or objectionable increase of NVH; but my car is pretty noisy already and I'm fairly tolerant of mechanical sounds.

I think pretty much all of the aftermarket LCA's are an improvement over factory, not sure the brand or model really matters much. I'd look for nice beefy round steel ones, or the "best" might be the larger rectangular cross-section aluminum ones like Steeda sells. The Ford GT500 LCA's are only a very small improvement over the regular GT ones, so I'd skip those.
I think I’d rather have J&M’s “ball bushing” over the Steeda’s. I don’t have any direct experience with the ones for the s197’s but the J&M’s for the 94-98 are plenty beefy, plus you get the nifty bushings that help to reduce binding. The black one is what I put on my ‘95.
The steeda’s look closer to oem.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I have not really done a lot of research into suspension and what each part does, so thank you all for posting your experiences and advice on brands and parts to get. I will sit down and research them and price them out. My goal with suspension would be to lower the car a bit and make the bumps less rough, my roads are bad enough already lol. Thank you all again for the help! I know I have steered this thread away from its original purpose but I have learned a lot and I have been encouraged.
 

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I have not really done a lot of research into suspension and what each part does, so thank you all for posting your experiences and advice on brands and parts to get. I will sit down and research them and price them out. My goal with suspension would be to lower the car a bit and make the bumps less rough, my roads are bad enough already lol. Thank you all again for the help! I know I have steered this thread away from its original purpose but I have learned a lot and I have been encouraged.
The lowering and less bumpy is going to be a tough sell. Lowering springs are going to be stiffer than stock. If it’s pretty rough with stock shocks and springs it’s possible that the shocks/struts are worn out.
There’s some good suspension info on these guy’s site. I’m not saying to buy their expensive parts, but the info is good. FAQs & Tech Tips
Rear control arm info. When it comes to arms, it’s all about the bushings. General tech about rear lower control arms
 

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yeah, you should probably start another thread, or better yet search/browse the existing threads; regarding the suspension stuff (it is a very common topic, lots of threads with tons of details going back to when these cars were new)

but just to close the loop for now . . .
  • I like the "ball and socket" design of the J&M control arms also (that's what I have on my car); but "they say" that's really only important for road track cars, for most the regular bushings are fine, and I was talking about the arms themselves (most of them are tubular steel, just a few rectangular aluminum such as Steeda)
  • yep, with lowering usually comes a "firmer" ride; you generally can't get a more compliant ride if you have less suspension travel, it works the other way: most lowering springs have higher spring rates, which means firmer, than the original ones (otherwise they would be bottoming out all the time because you lost 1" of travel) . . . . so you'll need to prioritize what you want: comfort or handling/looks?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Ah ok that makes a lot of sense. See.. I told you I am a newbie at this stuff :p I will check out those websites and contemplate what I really want for this car. Thanks for the assistance!
 

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I installed these back in December replacing the SR Performance arms. They were a bit squeaky at first even though I pumped them full of marine grease, but after about 500 miles I re-greased them and they quieted down. Guess the grease had to work its way in to the nooks and crannies. LMR supplied Prothane grease to apply to the outside of the bushings and mounting brackets too, which was nice. They did squeak a bit when the temps dropped down in to the teens and below back in February, but then again just about everything squeaked at -14. lol
 

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I installed these back in December replacing the SR Performance arms. They were a bit squeaky at first even though I pumped them full of marine grease, but after about 500 miles I re-greased them and they quieted down. Guess the grease had to work its way in to the nooks and crannies. LMR supplied Prothane grease to apply to the outside of the bushings and mounting brackets too, which was nice. They did squeak a bit when the temps dropped down in to the teens and below back in February, but then again just about everything squeaked at -14. lol
I never noticed any squeaks but my exhaust is kind of loud.
 

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Don't get too caught up in all the suspension components.
As stated before, look at shock, struts and lowering springs.
You'll want to look into progressive springs as apposed to specific rate springs. LMR explains the difference a little more in depth.

Progressives springs are a bit softer for street use. Better ride.
Specific rate springs are much stiffer.
 
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