Torque box question

7183 Views 22 Replies 4 Participants Last post by poetnprophet, Dec 26, 2012

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · Dec 13, 2012

Well, I've got my entire rear end out and in the process of upgrading some suspension components. Some things on the list:

Eibach Pro Plus kit (springs, shocks/struts, swaybars)
Rear control arms (SVE) and all poly bushings
Rear disc brakes from 93 cobra/88 TC rear end, 3.08 gears
T5 Z-spec 2.95 1st gear
Aluminum driveshaft

I plan to get up to maybe 350hp, right now I'm lucky to be at 250, haha. I do not plan to take this thing to the track or the strip. I just want a fun car to drive around, maybe hit some nice twists and turns through wine country on a nice day. Otherwise it's my daily driver and gives me something to fix up.

Since I've got everything off, and have been reading up on all the stuff I can do, haha, I'm looking at the torque box and wondering if it's REALLY necessary to add reinforcements in......right now. Am I going to tear this thing up with the upgraded bushings and control arms, even if I don't drag or race?

Here's what it looks like now. New pinion snubber going in too.

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

Exiled

· #2 · Dec 13, 2012

Its ok to use poly bushings on your upper/lower control arms, but it is a big no no to run poly bushing on the bushings that press into your pumpkin/differential that your upper control arms mount to. For a street car you will want to only use rubber bushings for the bushings that press into your pumpkin/differential.

Ford Racing 8.8 in. Axle Installation Kits M-4050-B - SummitRacing.com

As far as your torque boxes, if you dont want to buy the torque box reinforcement plates, and have them installed right now, just do what I did, and at least have your torque boxes seam-welded & reinforced from underneath the car. I had a local muffler shop seam-weld both of my torque boxes all the way around with the rear end still in the car...

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 13, 2012

Prothane Mustang Rear Upper Axle Bushings (79-04 All, Excludes IRS) 6-309-BL - Free Shipping!

So those are a No-No? Damn, I will have to return them. What is the negative impact of using them? And why are the rubber ones more expensive?

EDIT: just found my answer: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=543
really starting to like MM!

Well, glad I found that out before I got it installed. So you're saying that no matter what I need to get my torque box reinforced?

stangdawg

· #4 · Dec 13, 2012

If you have the rear end already out, putting in the torque plates is a piece of cake. You only have to drill and handful of holes.

You definitely want rubber bushings in the pumpkin as stated above.

Exiled

· #5 · Dec 13, 2012

poetnprophet said:
So you're saying that no matter what I need to get my torque box reinforced?

Its not a "must" to get your torque boxes seam-welded/reinforced, however the torque boxes come from the factory just spot-welded here, and there around the torque boxes, and if your mustang has any kind of miles/abuse on it, the torque boxes have probably already broke apart some of the spot-welds slightly. And if using aftermarket upper/lower control arms, they will put even more stress on your torque boxes. Its just better to be safe than sorry, for once a torque box completely breaks away, good luck trying to fix it after that...

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 13, 2012

stangdawg said:
If you have the rear end already out, putting in the torque plates is a piece of cake. You only have to drill and handful of holes.

You definitely want rubber bushings in the pumpkin as stated above.

Yea, it doesn't look hard, I just didn't want to have to spend another $100 right now before I can start putting her back together. But, that why I have it all apart so I better get to it.

OK, last question: IF I could only get the upper OR lower reinforcements, if you had to choose, which one would be the best for right now?

Exiled

· #7 · Dec 13, 2012

poetnprophet said:
OK, last question: IF I could only get the upper OR lower reinforcements, if you had to choose, which one would be the best for right now?

If I was only doing the uppers or lowers, I would do the uppers first...

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 13, 2012

Exiled said:
If I was only doing the uppers or lowers, I would do the uppers first...

Haha, ok....I was thinking the lowers. But that's why I asked :bigthumbsup
thanks again

Exiled

· #9 · Dec 13, 2012

poetnprophet said:
Haha, ok....I was thinking the lowers. But that's why I asked :bigthumbsup
thanks again

Yea you might get some people who might say to do the lowers first, but to me I would get the uppers all reinforced/welded first to get them knocked out, and of the way for now.

But that being said, do you have subframe connectors installed on your car? If not that would be the first thing I would do. Especially if you have a convertable...

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 13, 2012

Ah...no I do not have the subs. It is on my list, but I don't have to disassemble anything right? Accessible with it all put together, just remove seats and bolt there, then get welded?

Exiled

· #11 · Dec 13, 2012

poetnprophet said:
Ah...no I do not have the subs. It is on my list, but I don't have to disassemble anything right? Accessible with it all put together, just remove seats and bolt there, then get welded?

Yea subframe connectors are pretty easy to install. Just make sure to get the full length welded ones. Not the short bolt-on ones...

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-full-length-subframe-connectors.html

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #12 · Dec 13, 2012

I see. I will definitely keep that in mind when the time comes, probably in a few months or so. Thanks for all the guidance!

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #13 · Dec 13, 2012

Says at the bottom that the uppers will not work on a convertible.
1979-04 Mustang Torque Box Reinforcement Kit - Upper & Lower at LRS - Free Shipping!

So, lowers it is then. I mean, that should help quite a bit over nothing. And by spring I'll definitely get some subframe connectors that tie in with the lca

Exiled

· #14 · Dec 13, 2012

poetnprophet said:
Says at the bottom that the uppers will not work on a convertible.
1979-04 Mustang Torque Box Reinforcement Kit - Upper & Lower at LRS - Free Shipping!

So, lowers it is then. I mean, that should help quite a bit over nothing. And by spring I'll definitely get some subframe connectors that tie in with the lca

Honestly id just wait until you have the lil bit of extra money, and go ahead, and do both the uppers, and lowers at the same time if your gonna do them at all.

And I dont see anywhere on UPR's site about their torque box reinforcement kits not being compatible with convertibles.

79-04 Mustang Heavy Duty Upper/Lower Torque Box Kit

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #15 · Dec 14, 2012

Yea, I actually have a question in about that to be sure. Waiting for a response.

But I will say that I've had my seat out and that "hump" that you see in others' pictures for the interior bracket is not the same for a convertible. There's this brace that runs in front of it where the upper portion of the back seat rests, the pump motor is there too and the plumbing for it. Goes all the way to the bottom, so I don't see how it will work, but that's why I wanted to ask them.

I think in coupes and hatches that crossing brace is not there. I'm assuming that one can remove the backseat and see through to the trunk on those? Mine you can't, it's nearly solid.

stangdawg

· #16 · Dec 14, 2012

In most cases, aftermarket lower control arms give the biggest bang for traction.

You can buy the lower torque box plates for $50: 1979-04 Mustang Torque Box Reinforcement - Lower at LRS - Free Shipping!

For a street car with reasonable hp, the lower reinforcements are plenty. Welding them in is ideal but not required.

I'd do the lowers and be done with it.

Sharad

· #17 · Dec 15, 2012

I strongly recommend installing these torque box reinforcements while you have everything apart.

79-04 Mustang Heavy Duty Upper/Lower Torque Box Kit

Of course, I'd recommend these control arms since they're the strongest arms available, they're Made in America, and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee:

79-98 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

That link from about the rubber housing bushings is out dated, not valuable tech.

If a person wants to eliminate bind and actually use their Fox for performance driving, they can use spherical bushings like these:

79-04 Mustang Billet 8.8" Spherical Bushings

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #18 · Dec 21, 2012

Ok, question: I just got my lower reinforcement kit, and the hole for the control arm bolt is about 1" lower and doesn't line up. I'm wondering if:

1. I have a bad "batch"?
2. Is there something wrong with my car that it doesn't line up?
3. Can I just drill a new bolt hole, or would that ruin the reinforcement?

(ok, 3 questions) :cooldude:

Sharad

· #19 · Dec 21, 2012

poetnprophet said:
Ok, question: I just got my lower reinforcement kit, and the hole for the control arm bolt is about 1" lower and doesn't line up. I'm wondering if:

1. I have a bad "batch"?
2. Is there something wrong with my car that it doesn't line up?
3. Can I just drill a new bolt hole, or would that ruin the reinforcement?

(ok, 3 questions) :cooldude:

Which kit? I doubt it's the UPR kit because I've never heard of this happening. If it is UPR, please call the shop at 561.588.6630 ASAP.

poetnprophet

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 22, 2012

it was not the UPR kit, from LMR. How much is the UPR kit? I'm kinda disappointed, supposed to button it all up this weekend and now I have this part that doesn't fit. I'm tempted to just say forget the whole thing and leave the reinforcement off for now.

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

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