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What bolts on the engine HAVE to be properly torqued and which is tightend up good enough.
Example heads must be torqued to spec. But I've never used a torque wrench on the wheels even though technically you should.
 

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Don't forget head bolts. Anything that will be routinely subjected to containing the extreme stress of the engine's internal combustion, rotating/moving parts, or pressure seals. Honestly, pretty much everything on the engine should be torqued properly; it really doesn't take all that much longer to get the correct torque setting out of the book and use the torque wrench.

Also, there's a lot less chance of snapping a bolt or stripping threads if you're using the torque wrench and correct settings; extraction, drilling, tapping, Heli-coiling are all not fun. (At least, not so much fun that I want to do them a lot.)
 

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Don't forget suspension parts. Pretty much anything suspension related needs to be not only torqued down properly but also when the car is level and at proper ride heigh, i.e. not jacked up by the frame with the suspension freely hanging.
 

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The way I look at it is if the factory service manual has a torque assigned, do it. At the very least it's practice with a torque wrench. :laugh:

I have four torque wrenches that will all measure similar ranges. I save the best for very important stuff like internal engine components, etc.
 

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Anything related to safety (engine safety, drivetrain safety, suspension safety, personal safety-seats, seat belts, etc) usually has a torque value in the mechanics manual. There's a reason why this info is there (bolts will back out, and most probably break) so I always follow torque settings. Print out the pages, and refer to them when you are putting your car back together
 
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