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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been getting a vibration in my 95 that first started as an exhaust vibration. Now It’s something else. Maybe the transmission? Is this T5 a little too close to the right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I installed a tubular crossmember, I needed to add a spacer. That may have contributed to the vibration as it appeared to raise the trans a little higher, causing the shifter to touch the body. I took it to a trans shop and they suggested I remove the spacer. I did and the vibration went away. Well, it’s back. I’ve been driving around with the opening exposed and its definitely vibrating. They guy at the shop told me that my stock mount looks a little too tall and perhaps the parts store gave me the wrong part. I’ll pull it off again and take it back to compare it with another mount.
Thanks for the pic!
 

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When I installed a tubular crossmember, I needed to add a spacer. That may have contributed to the vibration as it appeared to raise the trans a little higher, causing the shifter to touch the body. I took it to a trans shop and they suggested I remove the spacer. I did and the vibration went away. Well, it’s back. I’ve been driving around with the opening exposed and its definitely vibrating. They guy at the shop told me that my stock mount looks a little too tall and perhaps the parts store gave me the wrong part. I’ll pull it off again and take it back to compare it with another mount.
Thanks for the pic!
Welcome. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited by Moderator)
All New mounts and the transmission is in a better position but I don’t think this will ever go away.
This is what it sounds like when I’m on the highway. The sound stops when I let off the gas and starts back up when I accelerate.

 

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If the vibration only occurs during acceleration &
deceleration,are you sure the front and/or rear ujoints aren't bad on the driveshaft?? This is mainly the time when a bad ujoint shows itself because while coasting or cruising,theres little to no load on the joints,but there's plenty during acceleration and deceleration.I assume you've already checked your driveshaft/crossmember/ trans mount bolts to make sure they're tight??
I doubt it would cause vibration unless under throttle its causing contact between a drivetrain and body part that is not visible while the car is running or cruising,but if the motor mount stud on both mounts isnt sitting in the exact same orientation in the kmember slot,it could possibly cause the T5 to sit closer to one side of the tunnel cutout.I also posted in a thread a long time ago where a guy had replaced both motor mounts and he installed them incorrectly two different times which caused a difference in where the T5 was sitting.On his 1st attempt,it was physically possible for him to install the mounts on the wrong side then on the 2nd attempt,he installed them upside down.He got them right on the 3rd try.The wrong side moved the T5 fore or aft too much and upside down increased the engine/t5 height in the bay/tunnel.
So make sure your mounts are correctly orientated if you replaced them while you've been dealing with this issue.Ive also heard of guys having vibration in the T5 from a worn bushing in the tailshaft of the transmission,so you might wanna check that out also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’ll probably go back to the DS place where they told me my DS appeared to be in good shape. All mounts have been replaced as the mm was causing the trans to lean more towards the passenger side. It does feel like its something to do with the DS.
 

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I can definitely hear a rattling noise during one section of the video and some clicking at other times,if thats the noises you're referring to.I would check the ujoints for play between the caps & yoke & you could also check under the caps too,where the needle bearings reside,but you would have to use a vice to remove the joint from the yoke and be careful to not lose any of the needle bearings.The needle bearings could be out of grease & turning to dust.This would allow the joint to rock side to side hitting the inner diameter of the cap,if the needle bearings are rusted & disintegrated.The noise could also be coming from something inside the differential,like possibly a worn pinion bearing or carrier bearing.It wouldn't hurt to remove the inspection/fill plug on the upper part of your differential housing too & check your fluid level.
Insert your finger into the open hole once the plug is removed and the fluid level should come up to the bottom of that hole almost full enough to seep out of the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I will do all of this. Thanks! I removed the DS and the both joints looked good and had no play on both ends but I feel like I should replace them anyway.I removed the wheels and rotors to rule that out so now I need to run it again to try to find where that sound is coming from.
The rear calipers where so rusty, I’m thinking it may be rear axle bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, running with no tires and rotors I got the same vibration. It kinda sounded like it was coming from the gears but also from the rear u-joint. I’m gonna start with the joints before I get the diff rebuilt. Also, the pass side axle moved in and out when accelerating. Not too much but, just enough to notice when you look real close. Is that normal?
 

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When I needed to have my rear end rebuilt in my ‘95 I decided to just replace and upgrade the differential and axles. The parts were kinda pricey, but since I was paying someone to do it the labor would’ve been about the same to have them just rebuild the diff. The stock axles are 28 spline and the kit I bought came with 31 spline. Maybe something to think about. If you’re doing the work yourself of course it’d be a lot cheaper to just replace the clutch packs if that’s what’s wrong. Mine wasn’t making any noises, it was just doing the “one wheel peal”.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/yukon-88-posi-with-31spline-axles-9498.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have been thinking that! I don’t think I could do it myself so I’ve been calling around looking for a place in my area and the prices vary by a lot! Others say they won’t come near mustang gears
 

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Yeah the way I saw it was the mechanic would have to remove the diff, rebuild it, and then reinstall it, and that’d be more labor hours than just removing one and replacing it with another. The Yukon 28 spline diff by itself is $599, so I decided pay the little extra to get the 31 spline diff with the 31 spline axles. The Yukon is a little more than the ford racing 8.8” but the ford racing is just a stock replacement I do believe. The Yukon uses springs instead of clutch packs.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/yukon-28spline-88-posi.html
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, just to follow up, I removed the dog bone and it sounds like the rattle went away. I didn’t hear anything on the ride to work this morning but we’ll see how it goes on my way home. I will say that I think I may need that bone back. I hit a few bumps on my way in and it hit pretty hard! I felt it in my soul!
 
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