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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone im new to this. I just bought my first mustang. It's an 89 foxbody gt 5.0L. I have always wanted one and now i got one. I think i may have gotten screwed. I bought the car from a dealership, the salesmen was selling it for a friend(this is a small dealership) anyway when i test drove it it seemed fine. Anyway when i shift from 1st to 2nd i have to keep presure on the stick or it will grind. When keeping presure on the stick it will make a small pop noise and then everything is good. I have to be goin about 15mph to down shift into 1st and not grind. I can shift into 3rd no problems and then same with 4th and 5th. When i try and down shift from 4th to 3rd it wont go into 3rd i have to wiggle the stick a little bit and it will go in or i have to move over to first and slightly push up but not go into 1st, then i can go back to 3rd and it goes right into gear. The guy told me that the clutch is new, maybe about 3 months old. I guess the guy didnt drive the car much because he wasnt home ever. I had it looked at by a machanic and he said it sounds like a syncro to him. I was on this site the other day and read that it could possible be a clutch adjustment or timing/alignment. I have bad luck so i am going to go ahead and say that the news i get back on here is not going to be what i want to hear:weepsAnyway anybody have any thoughts on whats going on?
 
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Welcome to AFM! First... don't ever shift into first when moving... only when at a complete stop... but that's not your issue... just saying.

Let me move this to the 5.0 section for you and see if anyone has any thoughts.

Thanks for joining and we'll get you figured out.
:bigthumbsup
 

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how many miles on the trans?
probably synchros...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you snackmaster for moving that over to the 5.0 sorry i havnt gotten this figured out yet. OK so now i feel like an idiot for not knowing to not shift into first while moving. I have drivin stick my whole life and have always done that. So the dumb question is, why should i not shift into first?

Thanks again for the response


Oh and the transmission i believe has 166,000 miles on it. Im not 100% sure on that though. I just know that the clutch is knew.
 

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how many miles on the trans?
probably synchros... rebuild it or replace if you have the cash t5s are not the best anyways :)
 

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with that kinda mileage,the synchros are probably well worn..just needs a basic rebuild

if its just your average daily driver type car,just rebuild the trans..if you're going to start adding alot of power and racing it,you may want to look into something stronger...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
with that kinda mileage,the synchros are probably well worn..just needs a basic rebuild

if its just your average daily driver type car,just rebuild the trans..if you're going to start adding alot of power and racing it,you may want to look into something stronger...

I was afraid it was going to be the synchros. It is not going to be my daily driver. I bought it as a fixer up car, but didnt think i would have to do the major repairs right off the bat. I knew that eventually i would have to do this kind of work on it.

I would like to add more power one day. I am deploying here soon so the car is going to be in storage. I'm thinking that i will leave the trans. the way it is for now and when i get back i'll have some money to replace it. So what would you recomend as a stronger trans.?
 

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Just get a junkyard unit!

Don't try to rebuild it yourself!!!It's a special trade.If you hire someone to do it,the price would be the same or more as buying a used one from a bone yard.If you remove and install the old transmission it maybe cheap. Probably get a used t-5 for 400-500.Not the end of the world.Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't try to rebuild it yourself!!!It's a special trade.If you hire someone to do it,the price would be the same or more as buying a used one from a bone yard.If you remove and install the old transmission it maybe cheap. Probably get a used t-5 for 400-500.Not the end of the world.Good luck!

Thanks everyone for the help. I have a feeling that you guys are right about it beein a syncro. I did take it to a transmission guy and he said he wants to take a look at the shifter cuz it might be something with that and not in the transmission. So the question is, is that bs or is this a possiblility?

Thanks again
 

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with the engine off and the car parked,can you push in the clutch and go up and down thru all the gears without any trouble?
 

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Don't be downshifting into first and if I was to guess I would also say it's your tranny. Synchros being the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah thats the 2nd time i have been told not to downshift into first. I know its a dumb question but why should i not do that? Is that for ever car or just this mustang? I have drivin standard my whole life and have always downshifted into first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
With the engin off and clutch in i went threw all the gears no problem. However my parking break does not work so when i went into 2nd i took my foot off the break and it started to roll and it would not go all the way in 2nd. I keeped some pressure on the stick and it made the little pop noice that it makes while im driving and i shift into 2nd. So when the engin off and clutch in and rolling it was making a pop noise, kind of like it was half in gear and half not.
 

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im thinking if it shifts thru the gears without the engine running/trans spinning,then theres no problem with your shifter

the bad thing about the stock shifter is that it has no stops on it,so if someone in the past was really banging thru the gears,you can actually move the shifter "too far" and bend the shift forks and make the sliders basically overshoot the gear..so theoretically,it could be a bent shift fork not properly engaging the gears,but my money is still on the snychros being worn out with 166k on the clock
 

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don't downshift into first...most people try to slow the car down by down shifting (including myself sometimes if I'm not paying attention), bad idea!!!! everytime you downshift it puts stress/wear on the disc, replacing brake pads is cheaper than replacing a disc/clutch kit. Not sure what your problem is I did have a similar problem with my '89 (currently down), so I never got around to fixing it, mine would pop out of second if I would downshift to turn sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you for the feedback. I think its time that i face the music and accept that is going to be bad syncrohs. New this would have to be done one day just didnt think i would have to do it days after buying the car.

Also i have been told a few times on here now not to shift into 1st while moving, only while at a complet stop. Cant get an answer on that. Wondering if you could tell me why? Like i have said before all my cars have been stick my whole life and i have always downshifted into 1st. I currently have a 99 honda accord with a 5 speed standard as a daily driver, should i not be down shifting into 1st that as well or is that just for the mustang?
 

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The bad thing about the stock shifter is that it has no stops on it,so if someone in the past was really banging thru the gears,you can actually move the shifter "too far" and bend the shift forks and make the sliders basically overshoot the gear...
At the risk of sounding "snippy" I want to say that I disagree, and in my opinion, this is one of the many "Internet Myths" about the T-5.

Here is why:

The T-5 HAS a positive stop under the shifter block in the tail housing that cannot allow the shifter to over-travel the forks.

There is, in fact, no need for the adjustable stops on an aftermarket shifter. Mis-adjusted aftermarket stops cause perfectly good transmissions to jump out of gear or grind and damage the gears and synchros.

Now, over-travel of the synchro slider does happen in a T-5. Particularly in the 3-4 synchro, and when it does, it is catastrophic to the keys in the synchro. It is easy to make this happen by hand on the workbench with the top cover removed, but if the fork has good pads on it and there is no excessive play in the input shaft/main shaft bearings, this should never happen with an assembled T-5.

The design of the aftermarket billet 3-4 keys are less likely to get jammed if there is some over-travel.
 
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