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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

So I tackled a flywheel/clutch/rear main seal job myself this past week (it took the whole week...) I put it all back together yesterday and got some pretty disturbing vibrations. I've been researching a lot and I've got a few ideas to get me going, but I was hoping to get anyone's input for my specific scenario.

(As a quick thought, I'd like to let anyone know who is attempting to do this job themselves - Don't do this on a sloped driveway! My car rolled off of two 4 ton jacks and almost rolled me over. I was able to jump out of the way in time, but from now on, when I have to jack a car up as high as is needed to get a tranny out, I'm going to do it on flat ground even if it means pulling EVERYTHING out of my garage and putting it in the driveway for someone to steal).


What I did:

-I have a 2004 GT, Convertible
-I have a 6 bolt crank and a TR-3650
-I replaced my stock flywheel and clutch with a Stage 1 Exedy clutch and lightweight flywheel
-I bought new FRP clutch bolts and dowel pins and reused the flywheel bolts (I didn't install the dowel pins because I didn't think they were used on this flywheel/clutch assembly. I couldn't figure out how they mated up)
-I replaced the throwout bearing, pilot bearing and pivot ball
-Installed and torqued the flywheel bolts to 80 ft-lb in stages 30 ft-lb, 60 ft-lb, 80 ft-lb in a star pattern (and used red locktite)
-Used the clutch alignment tool and installed the disk and PP, then torqued to 35 ft-lb in one stage in a star pattern (used red locktite)
-Greased up the input shaft, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and clutch fork using general lithium grease (what grease should I be using...?)
-I was able to get the tranny in most of the way except the last 1/4" which I used the bolts to pull it in for (big no-no... I know)
-I think the tranny mount is on correctly as I could only get it on one way
-I marked the driveshaft before pulling and put it back on the same way
-Bolted my People's Republic of California approved H-Pipe back up and attached my Chinese brand Pypes Cat-back to it, now it scrapes on EVERYTHING!!! Don't buy PYPES Exhaust!!!


My issue:

-I have a slight but very noticeable vibration while at idle
-The vibration is the worst as the car approaches 2K rpm
-Around 50 mph on the road the steering wheel shakes violently
-Sitting at stoplights I can hear a rattle/shake from somewhere around or behind me
-Haven't gotten on the freeway yet, and I don't intend to yet
-Car shifts great and the lightweight flywheel is amazingly noticeable, rev's up and down very quickly!
-95% sure there is no bearing noise when pressing on the clutch or letting up


Thoughts so far:

-I don't think it is a driveshaft issue as I installed it the same way I took it off, and I still have a vibration while in neutral
-I don't think the transmission mount is backwards because I could only make it fit one way
-I've read the dowel pins, which I didn't install, not only hold the pressure plate on while bolting up, but also help align it properly because the bolts don't do this
-I may have screwed something up, although I don't know what, by pulling the tranny in with the bolts
-I noticed that the shifter mount (top of the tranny) seemed to point at an angle when I reinstalled my shifter, but that could have been from the sloped driveway, uneven jack stands and it being a convertible with s***** subframe connectors allowing the car to twist


If you guys have any other ideas on things I should look for when I drop the tranny again or things to check before I start down that path I'd really appreciate it!
 

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IMHO...........


-I was able to get the tranny in most of the way except the last 1/4" which I used the bolts to pull it in for (big no-no... I know)
Answer: Actually, there is nothing wrong about doing this...as long as you are not forcing it...so to speak


-I have a slight but very noticeable vibration while at idle & -The vibration is the worst as the car approaches 2K rpm...while in neutral I'm assuming based upon -I don't think it is a driveshaft issue as I installed it the same way I took it off, and I still have a vibration while in neutral


Answer: I would 1st check the harmonic balancer to ensure it is not loose or starting to fail.......if all this is good, it's either the clutch pressure plate or the flywheel which has not been balanced properly.


-Around 50 mph on the road the steering wheel shakes violently
Answer: This is a separate issue...wheels/tires, suspension issue

-Sitting at stoplights I can hear a rattle/shake from somewhere around or behind me
Answer: Likely the exhaust and/or bracket
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Beechkid!

I was thinking the 50 mph shake might be a wheel issue, I appreciate the additional confirmation, and the rattle/shake from the exhaust wouldn't surprise me in the least. Pypes exhaust absolutely suck, their fitment is horrible and the sound isn't all that great. But it was the cheapest... Sigh...

I don't feel so bad about pulling the tranny in either because I watched a couple how-to videos where guys did that. Not the typical joe-shmo in his garage, but from what looked to be reputable web sites (not that, that really means anything, I know).


About the flywheel... Is it possible that the dowel pins not being put in could cause a balance issue? Or maybe the pressure plate didn't fit up right even if it was bolted on? Does Exedy not balance the flywheels before shipping? Is this a "take to a machine shop" to fix type of deal?
 

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Thanks Beechkid!

I was thinking the 50 mph shake might be a wheel issue, I appreciate the additional confirmation, and the rattle/shake from the exhaust wouldn't surprise me in the least. Pypes exhaust absolutely suck, their fitment is horrible and the sound isn't all that great. But it was the cheapest... Sigh...

I don't feel so bad about pulling the tranny in either because I watched a couple how-to videos where guys did that. Not the typical joe-shmo in his garage, but from what looked to be reputable web sites (not that, that really means anything, I know).


About the flywheel... Is it possible that the dowel pins not being put in could cause a balance issue? Or maybe the pressure plate didn't fit up right even if it was bolted on? Does Exedy not balance the flywheels before shipping? Is this a "take to a machine shop" to fix type of deal?
Is it possible that the dowel pins not being put in could cause a balance issue? Yes


Or maybe the pressure plate didn't fit up right even if it was bolted on? No


Does Exedy not balance the flywheels before shipping? They should, but, nobody is perfect and mistakes do happen


Is this a "take to a machine shop" to fix type of deal? My 1st instinct is the flywheel is the most likely at fault.......a machine shop should be able to check the balance along with the clutch.......and if it's the flywheel, it might be worth it time & $ wise to have them balance the assembly.
 

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Flywheel out of balance is a possibility, but a slim one. I installed (okay, paid someone with a lift and all the necessary tools and expertise to install but did actively participate in the process) that same Exedy lightweight steel flywheel along w/ their stage 2 clutch about a year ago. Watched him install the dowels and bolt up the pressure plate. I've had absolutely zero issues. For $370 the thing better be balanced....

If as mentioned above it does turn out to be a flywheel issue I would check with wherever you bought from for a replacement since you don't really deserve to have to spend more money to make an already expensive part work the way it should right out of the box. But as stated - mistakes do happen, occasionally something slips past QC regardless of what it is or who made it.... So far as I'm aware though Exedy is known to produce good stuff that works as intended or designed.
 

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Hey all,

So I tackled a flywheel/clutch/rear main seal job myself this past week (it took the whole week...) I put it all back together yesterday and got some pretty disturbing vibrations. I've been researching a lot and I've got a few ideas to get me going, but I was hoping to get anyone's input for my specific scenario.

(As a quick thought, I'd like to let anyone know who is attempting to do this job themselves - Don't do this on a sloped driveway! My car rolled off of two 4 ton jacks and almost rolled me over. I was able to jump out of the way in time, but from now on, when I have to jack a car up as high as is needed to get a tranny out, I'm going to do it on flat ground even if it means pulling EVERYTHING out of my garage and putting it in the driveway for someone to steal).


What I did:

-I have a 2004 GT, Convertible
-I have a 6 bolt crank and a TR-3650
-I replaced my stock flywheel and clutch with a Stage 1 Exedy clutch and lightweight flywheel
-I bought new FRP clutch bolts and dowel pins and reused the flywheel bolts (I didn't install the dowel pins because I didn't think they were used on this flywheel/clutch assembly. I couldn't figure out how they mated up)
-I replaced the throwout bearing, pilot bearing and pivot ball
-Installed and torqued the flywheel bolts to 80 ft-lb in stages 30 ft-lb, 60 ft-lb, 80 ft-lb in a star pattern (and used red locktite)
-Used the clutch alignment tool and installed the disk and PP, then torqued to 35 ft-lb in one stage in a star pattern (used red locktite)
-Greased up the input shaft, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and clutch fork using general lithium grease (what grease should I be using...?)
-I was able to get the tranny in most of the way except the last 1/4" which I used the bolts to pull it in for (big no-no... I know)
-I think the tranny mount is on correctly as I could only get it on one way
-I marked the driveshaft before pulling and put it back on the same way
-Bolted my People's Republic of California approved H-Pipe back up and attached my Chinese brand Pypes Cat-back to it, now it scrapes on EVERYTHING!!! Don't buy PYPES Exhaust!!!


My issue:

-I have a slight but very noticeable vibration while at idle
-The vibration is the worst as the car approaches 2K rpm
-Around 50 mph on the road the steering wheel shakes violently
-Sitting at stoplights I can hear a rattle/shake from somewhere around or behind me
-Haven't gotten on the freeway yet, and I don't intend to yet
-Car shifts great and the lightweight flywheel is amazingly noticeable, rev's up and down very quickly!
-95% sure there is no bearing noise when pressing on the clutch or letting up


Thoughts so far:

-I don't think it is a driveshaft issue as I installed it the same way I took it off, and I still have a vibration while in neutral
-I don't think the transmission mount is backwards because I could only make it fit one way
-I've read the dowel pins, which I didn't install, not only hold the pressure plate on while bolting up, but also help align it properly because the bolts don't do this
-I may have screwed something up, although I don't know what, by pulling the tranny in with the bolts
-I noticed that the shifter mount (top of the tranny) seemed to point at an angle when I reinstalled my shifter, but that could have been from the sloped driveway, uneven jack stands and it being a convertible with s***** subframe connectors allowing the car to twist


If you guys have any other ideas on things I should look for when I drop the tranny again or things to check before I start down that path I'd really appreciate it!



(I didn't install the dowel pins because I didn't think they were used on this flywheel/clutch assembly. I couldn't figure out how they mated up)


So there are no pins used?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't install the pins because I couldn't match up any holes in the pressure plate to where the dowels would fit into any holes on the flywheel. I have some trips coming up (one to Vegas and one to San Diego - from San Francisco) so rather than screw around with it, I'll just throw the old stuff on. The throwout bearing was the only thing going bad, and that got changed and performs flawlessly. When I have more time I can figure out the flywheel/clutch issue.

Just out of curiosity, if I had put the driveshaft on wrong, which I didn't because I marked it before removing, how would I rebalance it? Or how would I get it balanced? Say I went and bought an aluminum driveshaft, what would be involved with balancing it?


Thanks again for the help/thoughts all!
 

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You might have the driveshaft in the same spot on the rear end but it might be on a different spline on the transmission. I would pull the driveshaft loose from the rear end, turn it 90° and bolt it back in. Then see what it does.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I thought that might be an issue, but I didn't seen anyone ever talk about that on any of the forums. It DEFINITELY is not back in the same spot on the tranny. I spun the tranny several times to get the input shaft into the splines on the clutch. How on earth am I supposed to fix that? Do I spin the drive shaft 90 degrees with the pinion on the differential so they still line up, but are now 90 degrees apart from the tranny position?
 

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I thought that might be an issue, but I didn't seen anyone ever talk about that on any of the forums. It DEFINITELY is not back in the same spot on the tranny. I spun the tranny several times to get the input shaft into the splines on the clutch. How on earth am I supposed to fix that? Do I spin the drive shaft 90 degrees with the pinion on the differential so they still line up, but are now 90 degrees apart from the tranny position?
Honestly, you're overthinking it. You have 4 bolts on the driveshaft and a bunch of holes on the flanges. Unbolt the driveshaft from the rear end and spin it (with the transmission yoke still in place) to the next spot where the bolt holes line up. You'll understand it once you're looking at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Warrior, I finally got the transmission up this morning after taking it out yesterday. If it is still having issues, I'll try rotating the driveshaft around.

I put the dowels in and the pressure plate just feels like it fits better than it did when I just bolted it up. Something I wanted to ask you all - When I was taking the pressure plate off last night, about a third of the fingers were depressed as if the throwout bearing was pushing against it. It was also VERY hard to unscrew the bolts, there was obviously pressure being applied to the clutch disk by the pressure plate somehow, but I don't understand how. I very carefully removed the bolts allowing the spring pressure to be relieved before removing.

Why on earth would it be like that? What did I F-up when I put it back together the first time? Hopefully I didn't do it again.


I have a good feeling this time around, I think I'll have it working this weekend. I'll let you guys know how it turns out and thank you all so much for the advice! I wouldn't consider myself a "YouTube Certified Mechanic" without the help of the forums! :grin:


Oh, one quick question, does anyone know what the little nubs with bolt holes in them are used for? They stick off the bellhousing and make putting the tranny back in a total beezy!
 

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Those are alignment dowels for the transmission housing. Also, did you make sure the friction plate is installed in the correct orientation?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ahh... So if you take the bellhousing off from the tranny you can put dowels through the holes to help you realign it? Good thing I plan on getting a T-56 Magnum, after trying to get the tranny in from around 2 am to 5 am this morning I got really pissed, pulled out my grinder and "zip-zip" they were gone. It took me 10 minutes after that to line the tranny up and push it in!

By friction plate you mean the clutch disk (in between the pressure plate and flywheel)? Yeah, the side that sticks out goes towards the transmission right? That is what was written on the clutch disk/friction plate. I still can't think of how the pressure plate got a third of the fingers "stuck" in a clamping position; hopefully it doesn't happen again.
 

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Ohhhh, you mean the ears on the side of the trans! I should have told you to cut those off lol. Those are there for machines to lift them at the factory, I always cut them off because they get in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just wanted to give you all an update and thank you all for the help.

I was able to get the dowel pins pushed in and being on level ground in my garage, the tranny slid right in as well. I had the drive shaft matched up with the wrong markings last time I put it together. I guess that yellow paint marker I have lasts a long time! So I flipped it 180 degrees to the correct location and viola! The whole thing runs great! No vibrations! I can't believe the dowel pins were that important, but I guess they were.

I still have a rough shaking from 50 mph to around 70 mph. I must have done something to the car and/or wheel when my car fell off the jack stands in my sloped driveway. It drug both stands all the way down the driveway after it flattened them. I will probably throw my old wheels on to see if the shaking goes away. Hopefully it's just a bent rim and I didn't F-up the car in someway.


Anyway, thank you all very much for all the advice! And if anyone is having some shaking after a clutch install, make sure you install the dowel pins in the flywheel!
 
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