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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since UPR is having the Xmas sale I was thinking now woud be the time to buy one. Since you get get like $140-$150 off the regular price I figure if I was gonna get one now would be the time. UPR sales theirs only weighs like 19lbs so it takes like ~70lbs off the front end. But you HAVE to change over to coil overs. If you change to coil overs does that mean you just get rid of the coils springs all together? Since their kit comes with lower tubular A-arms anyways. Is this even worth doing? Especially since I would be forced to have someone else install all of it.
 

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87_5point0 said:
Since UPR is having the Xmas sale I was thinking now woud be the time to buy one. Since you get get like $140-$150 off the regular price I figure if I was gonna get one now would be the time. UPR sales theirs only weighs like 19lbs so it takes like ~70lbs off the front end. But you HAVE to change over to coil overs. If you change to coil overs does that mean you just get rid of the coils springs all together? Since their kit comes with lower tubular A-arms anyways. Is this even worth doing? Especially since I would be forced to have someone else install all of it.
The UPR is for trailer queens.

I'd go with Kenny Brown's, Maximum Motorsports, or Griggs's, if it's a street car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
kscoyote said:
The UPR is for trailer queens.

I'd go with Kenny Brown's, Maximum Motorsports, or Griggs's, if it's a street car.
Do you think they arent as strong or what? Cause they are just like everyone else, they say they are as strong as you would ever need in a street car or race car.
 

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87_5point0 said:
Do you think they arent as strong or what? Cause they are just like everyone else, they say they are as strong as you would ever need in a street car or race car.
no, they're not. It's "good enough" but it will start to bow & flex -Most people will trade it off before then, but there's a reason drag racers use the UPR, and overyone who road races uses the stouter pieces from KB, MM, Griggs, etc., -no flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What about the ones at www.paracing.com? They say they work with stock arms. I didnt really wanna have to change out the arms and swap to coil overs if I didnt have to and their site says you can keep the stock arms.
 

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im running all the stock components with my qa1 k-member ,and iv installed 4 of theses and have used mine for years on the street and they ARE built great and fit perfect
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
wayne94mustang said:
im running all the stock components with my qa1 k-member ,and iv installed 4 of theses and have used mine for years on the street and they ARE built great and fit perfect
Where do u get the QA1 k-member? And do u mean that u have stock arms attach to it and all? How much weight did you lose by swapping it out?
 

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i got it from summit ...and yeah im useing all the stock suspention on it...i even called the company when i got it and talked to the owner of q1a (qa1...what ever ) and he told me there k-meber was made for the street witch is harder on the member then raceing...i didnt weigh it so i dont know how much lighter it is but keep in mind the real light ones arent as strong
 

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wayne94mustang said:
i got it from summit ...and yeah im useing all the stock suspention on it...i even called the company when i got it and talked to the owner of q1a (qa1...what ever ) and he told me there k-meber was made for the street witch is harder on the member then raceing...i didnt weigh it so i dont know how much lighter it is but keep in mind the real light ones arent as strong
QA1 is the lightest by far!

Street is harder than drag racing, but Road Racing? Esp. endurance racing?

He's out of his mind!

I like most of QA1s stuff, but I've heard about 'em sagging, & flexing -That was some time ago, so who knows, maybe they've fixed the problem.
 

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wayne94mustang said:
i got it from summit ...and yeah im useing all the stock suspention on it...i even called the company when i got it and talked to the owner of q1a (qa1...what ever ) and he told me there k-meber was made for the street witch is harder on the member then raceing...i didnt weigh it so i dont know how much lighter it is but keep in mind the real light ones arent as strong
Chromoly has a higher tensile strength than mild steel, and is generally lighter. But it also has a higher fatigue rate which is why it's not recommended on a daily driver.
 

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all i know is i use my car hard,harder then most and in the 3-4 years iv had the qa1 it never gave me a problem...or to the other 4 iv installed on friends cars and id get another one in a sec if it did ever fail
 

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wayne94mustang said:
all i know is i use my car hard,harder then most and in the 3-4 years iv had the qa1 it never gave me a problem...or to the other 4 iv installed on friends cars and id get another one in a sec if it did ever fail
Well, it's cheap enough, you could probably buy 2-3 for the price of the others . . ..

As long as you have the facilities & labor taken care of .. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
kscoyote said:
QA1 is the lightest by far!

Street is harder than drag racing, but Road Racing? Esp. endurance racing?

He's out of his mind!

I like most of QA1s stuff, but I've heard about 'em sagging, & flexing -That was some time ago, so who knows, maybe they've fixed the problem.
QA1 is the lightest by far? All their ads say they only take 28 lbs off the weight of the car. Others like UPR take off like 70 lbs.
 

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87_5point0 said:
QA1 is the lightest by far? All their ads say they only take 28 lbs off the weight of the car. Others like UPR take off like 70 lbs.
that's because UPR adds in the weight loss of tubular A-Arms and collovers... and UPR is chromoly design.

For the record, QA1 is NOT, and i repeat NOT the lightest k-member in production. And in my opinion (yes, i have an opinion), QA1's POS k is junk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
markwondi said:
that's because UPR adds in the weight loss of tubular A-Arms and collovers... and UPR is chromoly design.

For the record, QA1 is NOT, and i repeat NOT the lightest k-member in production. And in my opinion (yes, i have an opinion), QA1's POS k is junk.
Ok then, in your opinion what is the best k member that will take the beating and last and is light as f*ck?
 

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87_5point0 said:
QA1 is the lightest by far? All their ads say they only take 28 lbs off the weight of the car. Others like UPR take off like 70 lbs.
sorry, meant UPR. the design is similar, & I get them confused.
 

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87_5point0 said:
Ok then, in your opinion what is the best k member that will take the beating and last and is light as f*ck?
I'd go with Kenny Brown. He's killing everyone in AI, and you get a longer wheelbase and more engine setback.

But you start getting brand loyalty arguments and they never end.

MM, Kenny Brown, and Griggs are the ones I'd choose from.

Just look at what everyone's running in American Iron, and you'll find the best street-combos out there.
 

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qa1 gives a longer wheel base and the option for a 1 inch motor set back
 

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wayne94mustang said:
qa1 gives a longer wheel base and the option for a 1 inch motor set back
If I recall correctly, Steeda's selling QA1s in their catalogue,

Like I said, maybe they've redesigned it . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
kscoyote said:
If I recall correctly, Steeda's selling QA1s in their catalogue,

Like I said, maybe they've redesigned it . . .
Yes you are correct, Steeda does sell them
 
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